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Old 02-22-2019, 12:14 PM   #1
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2nd A/C thermostat wire

I have a 2015 Georgetown 270S. I want to add the second A/C unit. The RV shipped from the factory with 2nd A/C prepped, 50A service and a 5500W Onan.


What I am having trouble with is finding out where FR would have terminated the pre-run thermostat wire, i.e. the end where the thermostat would go.
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Old 02-23-2019, 08:39 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfking View Post
I have a 2015 Georgetown 270S. I want to add the second A/C unit. The RV shipped from the factory with 2nd A/C prepped, 50A service and a 5500W Onan.


What I am having trouble with is finding out where FR would have terminated the pre-run thermostat wire, i.e. the end where the thermostat would go.
I have a 2017 270S and the front unit is in the roof by the entrance door with its thermostat on the wall by the bathroom next to the electrical switch panel. The second unit is above the bed with its thermostat located on the drive side wall that houses the sliding door. If prewired, that is where they should be.

The rear 13.5Kbtu ac unit was a $900 option on my 2017. They obviously, like me know that the 270 Requires 2 ac units.
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270S View Post
The second unit is above the bed with its thermostat located on the drive side wall that houses the sliding door. If prewired, that is where they should be.
Thank you very much for replying!!

I'm assuming (bad I know) that you refer to location A and not location B?

Also, I would consider it a huge favor if you were to measure from the driver side wall and floor to the nearest edge of the thermostat for mounting location.
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Old 02-23-2019, 05:37 PM   #4
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Wow... given your clue I was able to tone out the wire. They really did put it in the little stubby portion of the wall inside the bedroom less than 6 inches from the sidewall and the window.

Thank you very much for your assistance.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:12 PM   #5
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The rear thermostat is at eye level only a few inches from the exterior wall on the room divider wall that holds the sliding door. If I understand correctly, you already found this out. I also marked the fwd ac thermostat location on the bath exterior wall.


BTW, if you want to see all of FR's atrocious unprofessional assembly, my fixes, and upgrades, visit http://www.zrd.com/pd/esdttrv.html Because I can and know how, my RV is 100% off-grid capable. Enjoy.
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Old 02-24-2019, 02:47 PM   #6
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Bad design

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Originally Posted by 270S View Post
The rear thermostat is at eye level only a few inches from the exterior wall on the room divider wall that holds the sliding door. If I understand correctly, you already found this out. I also marked the fwd ac thermostat location on the bath exterior wall.


BTW, if you want to see all of FR's atrocious unprofessional assembly, my fixes, and upgrades, visit Observations and Feedback regarding the RV and Travel Trailer Industry Because I can and know how, my RV is 100% off-grid capable. Enjoy.
Those thermostats are TOO CLOSE TOGETHER. Bad things will happen.

Assume that:
  • You want to cool to 75 degrees
  • You set both thermostats to 75 degrees
  • You tend to leave the bedroom door open, especially when not in the bedroom.
  • The thermostats are not perfectly accurate. The bedroom thermostat will try to cool to 75 while the living area thermostat tries to only keep the area to 77 when set to 75.
It gets warm outside and both units are turned on, cool for a while, and shut off. Now, the inside temperature rises to 75 and the bedroom A/C starts running. It cools the bedroom off and also cools the nearby living area thermostat. The living area A/C never runs. This continues; the bedroom A/C cools both thermostats enough that the living area A/C never runs.

After sweating for a while, DW turns the living area thermostat down a bit. Then the bedroom A/C never runs.

These two thermostats should have been placed at extreme ends of the rig. It's not your fault, and it's not easy to re-run the wiring and fix things. It's something that should have taken place in the design phase.

Larry
(Plenty of personal experience in this area.)
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:49 AM   #7
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When AC is beginning to be needed, a user may turn on the single AC in the area they are located in. When AC is actually needed, both will be running nonstop because of their grossly lousy efficiency! Their ratings (16KBTU) are nowhere near accurate! I have a single 16KBTU AC in a significantly larger vehicle (in unrelated industry) and it is capable of reducing the interior air temperature from 95 to 75 while the OAT is 90+. Same manufacturer, but different retail costs - $600 vs $3200. I would dare say the Dometic 16K AC units perform like 5 to 8K at best. Some, but not the majority may be due to lack of insulation in RVs. I refuse to use the ceiling duct for AC distribution or that 5-8K becomes 2-5K. BTW, I love the noise - just kidding. That $3200 other industry unit is relatively quiet, especially compared to $600 RV ACs.

FYI, it is rare for me to defend FR or anything RV, but they did get the placement of the thermostats correctly. If one looks at the floorplan through system design eyes vs an untrained user, one will realize that the driving area is unoccupied as standard operating environment when parked, unlike the occasional use with larger class As. The fwd AC is located by the entrance so the thermostat should not be directly under it anyway or bad results will follow. With the "elimination" of the front driving area, the thermostat is actually in the center of the main living area not including the rear bedroom. So that is as perfectly located as possible. The rear unit is also located away from below the rear AC located on the only available wall - could be on the passenger side wall, but FR chose the driver side wall - No difference.

BTW, As an OEM, I have a lot of experience too -lol.
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Old 02-25-2019, 08:52 AM   #8
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Really?

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Originally Posted by 270S View Post
When AC is beginning to be needed, a user may turn on the single AC in the area they are located in. When AC is actually needed, both will be running nonstop because of their grossly lousy efficiency! Their ratings (16KBTU) are nowhere near accurate! I have a single 16KBTU AC in a significantly larger vehicle (in unrelated industry) and it is capable of reducing the interior air temperature from 95 to 75 while the OAT is 90+. Same manufacturer, but different retail costs - $600 vs $3200. I would dare say the Dometic 16K AC units perform like 5 to 8K at best. Some, but not the majority may be due to lack of insulation in RVs. I refuse to use the ceiling duct for AC distribution or that 5-8K becomes 2-5K. BTW, I love the noise - just kidding. That $3200 other industry unit is relatively quiet, especially compared to $600 RV ACs.

FYI, it is rare for me to defend FR or anything RV, but they did get the placement of the thermostats correctly. If one looks at the floorplan through system design eyes vs an untrained user, one will realize that the driving area is unoccupied as standard operating environment when parked, unlike the occasional use with larger class As. The fwd AC is located by the entrance so the thermostat should not be directly under it anyway or bad results will follow. With the "elimination" of the front driving area, the thermostat is actually in the center of the main living area not including the rear bedroom. So that is as perfectly located as possible. The rear unit is also located away from below the rear AC located on the only available wall - could be on the passenger side wall, but FR chose the driver side wall - No difference.

BTW, As an OEM, I have a lot of experience too -lol.
And you would put them back-to-back on the same wall? Really?

I do agree with you that in extreme temperatures the question is moot; both units will be running 100% duty cycle. But in moderate circumstances I continue to believe they could do better.
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:27 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
And you would put them back-to-back on the same wall? Really?

I do agree with you that in extreme temperatures the question is moot; both units will be running 100% duty cycle. But in moderate circumstances I continue to believe they could do better.
I try not to quote because it tends to get too personal on this forum, but if you look at MY correct drawing, they are clearly not on the same wall or even close. You may have looked at another that is not the actual locations, bit a question. Attention to detail.


Again, the RV industry AC units are almost useless, but it is due to how much the customer base refuses to spend for what is required for a proper solution.
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