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Old 05-28-2018, 03:15 PM   #21
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My TT had 1gfci that basically controlled everything not DC. Therefore only one place to reset the gfci. I'm not sure there's any need for a second one as someone mentioned earlier. Mine wouldn't reset and no outlet would work until I replaced the gfci in the bathroom.
1 GFI will not cover all the outlets unless it's a pop up or a small trailer. Bedrooms, living rooms do not need to be on GFI. There is usually a min of 2 circuits covering the outlets. In the panel, one will say GFI and the other will say General.
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:56 PM   #22
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I don't know so that is why I am asking. Can the switch that decides between the shorepower and the generator be acting up. Mine is! I have to flip the breakers on the generator to get power from the generator.
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:40 PM   #23
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I have now replaced the GFI and my tv came back on. Still no fridge or microwave but everything seems to be working at least on generator. I have decided not to use shore power for now. Two more questions, someone mentioned an internal fuse for the microwave. Does anyone know where that is. 2nd question, the fridge is still out. Where is the outlet for the fridge. I tested the GFI for the fridge inverter which never tripped with a fan and the fan worked. So GFI iseems good. I don’t have a circuit tester with me so I used a fan.
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:47 PM   #24
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wasn't the refrigerator plugged into the inverter if it has an internal transfer switch? or plugged into a small transfer switch which is then plugged into the inverter? it should be one or the other.
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Old 05-28-2018, 09:00 PM   #25
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I have now replaced the GFI and my tv came back on. Still no fridge or microwave but everything seems to be working at least on generator. I have decided not to use shore power for now. Two more questions, someone mentioned an internal fuse for the microwave. Does anyone know where that is. 2nd question, the fridge is still out. Where is the outlet for the fridge. I tested the GFI for the fridge inverter which never tripped with a fan and the fan worked. So GFI iseems good. I don’t have a circuit tester with me so I used a fan.
Kitchen counter outlets working? if so, go trip the gfi and then check then again.
I mentioned the fuse in the micro. I have never been into one myself but have read a few posts here from people who have. After you remove the cover I'm told it easy to find.
If you cant find a receptacle in the cabinets on either side of the fridge, It will be behind it.
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:44 AM   #26
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Kitchen counter outlets working? if so, go trip the gfi and then check then again.
I mentioned the fuse in the micro. I have never been into one myself but have read a few posts here from people who have. After you remove the cover I'm told it easy to find.
If you cant find a receptacle in the cabinets on either side of the fridge, It will be behind it.
Yes all outlets are working now still no fridge or microwave.
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:53 AM   #27
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The fridge is plugged into the inverter in the outside compartment. Unplug the fridge from the outlet and plug into an extension cord (with known power) to see if the fridge operates.
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Old 05-29-2018, 08:49 AM   #28
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I wasn’t sure this was the plug for the fridge because of the way it is wired. Another observation is the inverter isn’t reading 120 volts it shows 11 or 12. See pic. The plug is a pigtail coming out of the pro watt junction box.
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Old 05-29-2018, 09:04 AM   #29
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ok, thanks for the picture. the cord plugged into the inverter goes to the small box on the right which is the transfer switch for the refrigerator. it will have three cables, one from the inverter to supply inverter 110 vac, one from the 110 vac distribution panel to supply shore power 110 vac, and probably a receptacle that the refrigerator power cord is plugged into. the 11.7 on the inverter display may be the dc voltage level the inverter is receiving from the batteries. if so this is getting to be a discharged battery. the inverter has a low voltage setting where is will shut down and not supply inverted ac power if the incoming battery power goes below this setting. this may be what is happening to you which would explain why refrigerator does not run on inverter.

it has been mentioned a few times. unplug the refrigerator cord from the transfer switch and plug it into an extension cord with know good power. this will tell us if the refrigerator works. if so, we can chase the problem within you electrical system.

also, does your converter work? if that 11.7 was the dc voltage in the batteries it appears your converter is not charging them. that needs to be resolved before you tackle the inverter power issue. can you measure the voltage at the battery terminal without shore power connected and then again after you connect shore power and let us know the two voltage readings?
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Old 05-29-2018, 09:41 AM   #30
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ok, i read the inverter and transfer switch manual and need to correct a couple of statements i made. the 11.7 on the inverter display panel is the dc input voltage. while it is low, it is still within the operating range of the inverter so it should be supplying power. you said it runs the fan so i am assuming it is putting out a/c power. the transfer switch cord should be plugged into the gfci on the inverter. apparently the xantrex transfer switch does not have an a/c output outlet. it has a shore power a/c input cable and and a/c output cable (and the a/c cord from the inverter). if you trace the a/c output cable it will go to a receptacle that the refrigerator is plugged into. you need to find that. unplug the refrigerator and plug it into an extension cord from a known power source to verify whether the refrigerator runs or not. also plug you fan into the receptacle that the refrigerator was plugged into and see if the fan runs on shore power and on inverter power. this will determine that the transfer switch is working properly or not. if it were failed, it is possible that the refrigerator is not receiving power from either source. doing these test should give you a very firm understanding of where the refrigerator problem is.
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:33 PM   #31
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Thanks for your reply. I believe I will have to pull the fridge out to figure out where the plug is. I plugged the portable fan into the inverter and it worked. The strange thing is that GFI never tripped. I’m surprised that if the GFI in the bathroom tripped why didn’t the other GFI trip on the inverter which the fridge is indirectly connected to.
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:55 PM   #32
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Thanks for your reply. I believe I will have to pull the fridge out to figure out where the plug is. I plugged the portable fan into the inverter and it worked. The strange thing is that GFI never tripped. I’m surprised that if the GFI in the bathroom tripped why didn’t the other GFI trip on the inverter which the fridge is indirectly connected to.
The 2 GFI's are on totally different circuits independent of each other. No reason for both to trip.
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Old 05-30-2018, 04:34 AM   #33
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I have a 2017 364. When running on the generator or shore power I only have part of the RV electrical system working. Both AC work and a few outlets but not all. The microwave and fridge are out. I checked the inverter for the fridge and seems to be working but fridge is dead. Any ideas as to a cause and a solution. Thanks.
What do you mean by "Seams to be working"? plug something else into it and see if it works.

Tell us which part if the electric is out. Everything not working. Sounds like you have a GFI out.
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Old 05-30-2018, 04:54 AM   #34
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The 2 GFI's are on totally different circuits independent of each other. No reason for both to trip.
You you have a transfer switch for the inverter to the fridge?
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Old 05-31-2018, 05:59 AM   #35
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I don’t know about the the transfer switch for the fridge. Where is the transfer switch for the fridge located? Anyone have a picture of what the transfer switch for the fridge looks like. I know where the main transfer switch is located just not the one dedicated to the fridge.
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Old 05-31-2018, 06:20 AM   #36
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I think that you either have an issue with the fridge, itself, or the outlet on the inverter has tripped. If you unplug the fridge from the inverter outlet, and try a fan there, does it work?
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Old 05-31-2018, 06:27 AM   #37
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I believe the Inverter also is only for the fridge, in your unit, meaning that the other outlets, such as the outlet for the microwave, are only powered when either on generator or shore power, thru the main breaker box. You should have labels there such as 'living room', or 'GFCI', etc.
The Inverter, which should power the fridge, is not large enough to power most other outlets(or at least that's how most factories see it), and is not wired into your main breaker box, but is a 'stand alone' supplemental power unit for your fridge only. The Volts that it is reading, such as 11.7, does not mean that there is not enough 'juice' to power the fridge, but only the status of the Battery(s) levels. If this number falls too far, such as 10.5, then the Inverter may have a built in 'shut down' to preserve the battery(s) from too much discharge.

You may try to 'reset' the inverter by powering it off for 30 seconds, or using it's 'reset' button, if it has one. The outlets on the inverter are where the Fridge is plugged into, and another outlet is available if you need other items/devices powered while you are dry-camping without the generator or shore power.


This is my 'educated' guess : )
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Old 05-31-2018, 06:32 AM   #38
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actually, after reading Xantrex's website about your unit, the PLUG you see is actually going to the TRANSFER SWITCH box next to it, and your Inverter output is wired to your main breaker box. Since this is a 2000w unit, you should have not only the fridge on the Inverter, but you might have other outlets wired thru it, it just depends on how the factory chose to wire it. Look in your coach on the main breaker box.. what size 'Inverter' breaker does it show? 15amp? then probably only the fridge, 30amp?, then other outlets may also be on the Inverter.

Xantrex:
600 / 1000 / 2000 watts maximum, 1200 / 2000 / 3000 watt surge capability
Built-in digital display for DC volts and output power
Built-in USB port
Dual GFCI AC receptacles for safe operation
Heavy duty terminals for trouble-free battery connection
Available ON/OFF remote switch (with ignition lockout)
Meets stringent UL458 regulatory standard
Two year warranty
Low voltage shutdown (10.5 Vdc)
Low voltage alarm (11.0 Vdc)
Over voltage protection (15.5 Vdc)
Over load shutdown
Over temperature shutdown
GFCI protection
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Old 05-31-2018, 06:37 AM   #39
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the picture you sent in post 28 shows the inverter and the refrigerator transfer switch. the cord plugged into the inverter outlet goes to the smaller box (which has a prowatt logo on it). this smaller box is the refrigerator transfer switch. it should have three cables going into it. the power cable from the inverter (input), shore power (input), and a cable that the refrigerator pugs into (output). if you follow the output cable you will find a junction box where the refrigerator plugs into this cable. find the refrigerator cable and plug it into an extension cord from a know power source to determine if your refrigerator problem is the actually the refrigerator. it could be the small transfer switch. once you unplug the refrigerator plug your fan into the output receptacle from the transfer switch and see if the fan will run on shore power and on inverter power. one other really stupid thought. you say your refrigerator has nothing. by chance does it have an operator control to turn it off? does it simply need to be turned back on?
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Old 05-31-2018, 07:15 AM   #40
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I don’t know about the the transfer switch for the fridge. Where is the transfer switch for the fridge located? Anyone have a picture of what the transfer switch for the fridge looks like. I know where the main transfer switch is located just not the one dedicated to the fridge.
Go back to your post #28 you took the picture. and post 29. That box on the right is the transfer switch for the Inverter which the ref is plugged into. Check that GFI on the inverter. Follow the wire out of the Transfer switch to the ref outlet.
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