A real Georgetown electrical test

[kenandterry]

Okay....I hear the agreed suggestions, and it’s something I always thought I’d do, but I AM going to install battery disconnect switches...
One for both the house batteries under the steps, and another one for the chassis battery under the hood.

BTW....after testing everything 12v by using only the OEM Battery disconnect switch beside the steps to shut down the motorhome.......everything I originally posted within the house, was dead.

However, on my rig....the power awning, propane detector and power steps are the only items hardwired (with their own in-line fuses) to the house batteries. I’ve been able to trace each of the three green wires to their respective items.

I’m satisfied, and appreciate everyone’s input. Thanks.

[wmtire]

Good deal Ken. Just something to file away for later, is what I seem to remember reading about your propane detector and the solenoid connected to the propane cylinders:

When you decide to replace it (as they have a finite life), you may have to also replace the solenoid with the detector as the CCI Control one didn't work with the other brands of detectors.

May be something you can research now, to be prepared for when the time comes.

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...-valve_66-8928

[Schvarak]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Okay....I hear the agreed suggestions, and it’s something I always thought I’d do, but I AM going to install battery disconnect switches...
One for both the house batteries under the steps, and another one for the chassis battery under the hood.

BTW....after testing everything 12v by using only the OEM Battery disconnect switch beside the steps to shut down the motorhome.......everything I originally posted within the house, was dead.

However, on my rig....the power awning, propane detector and power steps are the only items hardwired (with their own in-line fuses) to the house batteries. I’ve been able to trace each of the three green wires to their respective items.

I’m satisfied, and appreciate everyone’s input. Thanks.

Ken, the disconnect switch I recommended for the house batteries would be great for the chassis battery as well. You'll need to use a 1" 5/16 screw and nut to connect the ground cable to. When in storage, just turn the green knob counter clockwise to disconnect the ground and clockwise to connect the ground. Simple and inexpensive. And very effective! Took me 5 minutes to install it.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Okay....I hear the agreed suggestions, and it’s something I always thought I’d do, but I AM going to install battery disconnect switches...
One for both the house batteries under the steps, and another one for the chassis battery under the hood.

BTW....after testing everything 12v by using only the OEM Battery disconnect switch beside the steps to shut down the motorhome.......everything I originally posted within the house, was dead.

However, on my rig....the power awning, propane detector and power steps are the only items hardwired (with their own in-line fuses) to the house batteries. I’ve been able to trace each of the three green wires to their respective items.

I’m satisfied, and appreciate everyone’s input. Thanks.

I believe your unit has the battery control center (BCC) box and if you move the propane detector termination from the battery to the NO.1 stud on the side of the BCC it will not be powered when you engage the OEM battery disconnect switch. That is the way my GT is wired. Those other items connected directly to the battery are powered via switches and should present no drain on battery unless actuated. By the way if you have the lippert hydraulic levelling and slide system it to is fused off the coach battery at the BCC (essentially the same as the battery positive post) but does require a switch action to put a drain on the battery. If you don't have a BCC then this scenario is a moot input.

[270S]

Whether on the stud like bubbles prefers of a bus bar connecte dto the stud, the point is to have it on the other side of the relay so that when the FR battery disconnect is activated, it will in fact disconnect the battery.

I installed 2 battery monitors (many threads on that subject) to actually know what loads are actually on the battery bank at all times. The price has come way down since I first used/installed them decades ago.

Many similar companies/models to choose from $150+