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Old 05-09-2021, 03:26 PM   #1
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Alright, Just purchased a whole project

New here, just joined.

Picked up a 1999 Georgetown 325S with just 34k miles on it...

In great condition... no leaks, no water damage, engine sounds great... drove it an hour home... couldn't pass it up for $1,900 price tag.

Problem is -- it's COMPLETELY gutted. I have.... nothing. nothing but a shower.

not a cabinet, not a toilet, not a place to sit but the drivers seat.

This is going to be my project over the next few months and im close to (not totally) clueless about what I'm doing.

What to look for first... What to watch out for, what is where how to even test some of the things still attached (still has generator and air conditioner)

anyone have tips? even anything to look out for?
really any advice is appreciated....
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Old 05-09-2021, 03:54 PM   #2
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Where are you located?

First tip I would suggest it take lots of pictures inside, outside and under.

1. Then figure a budget and time to complet the project.

2. I would start with the engine and change oils, filter, air cleaner, flush transmission fluid, flush radiator and don't forget the brake flush. How does the blets look?

3. Then look at the age of the tires. 5 or 6 year max and you get get the date from the side of the tires. Something like this. 1116 which means 11 month 2016 is when the tires were made.

3. Then look at the house batteries and engine battery and have them checked locally at a Auto shop who will do it for free. Walmart doe sit and replace as needed.

4. How much of the water lines exist in the rig? Start new or?

5. You still have black and grey tanks? Check or replace dump valves if they
are leaking.

6. Do you still have a 30 amp or 50 amp cable for campground power?

7. Do you have a generator that runs for now?

8. How solid are the floors inside? Do they flex or soft from water damage?

9. How is the roof condition? Do you see any water stains inside on ceiling?

I can go on and on and ask questions but you get the idea or you wouldn't have taken thsi project on.

Lets see some pictures of everything.

Iggy
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Old 05-09-2021, 04:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
Where are you located?

First tip I would suggest it take lots of pictures inside, outside and under.

1. Then figure a budget and time to complet the project.

2. I would start with the engine and change oils, filter, air cleaner, flush transmission fluid, flush radiator and don't forget the brake flush. How does the blets look?

3. Then look at the age of the tires. 5 or 6 year max and you get get the date from the side of the tires. Something like this. 1116 which means 11 month 2016 is when the tires were made.

3. Then look at the house batteries and engine battery and have them checked locally at a Auto shop who will do it for free. Walmart doe sit and replace as needed.

4. How much wate rlines are in the rig?

5. You still have black and grey tanks? Check or replace dump valves if they
are leaking.

6. Do you still have a 30 amp or 50 amp cable for campground power?

7. Do you have a generator that runs for now?

8. How solid are the floors inside? Do they flex or soft from water damage?

9. How is the roof condition? Do you see any water stains inside on ceiling?

I can go on and on and ask questions but you get the idea or you wouldn't have taken thsi project on.

Lets see some pictures of everything.

Iggy

Thank you! a ton of useful information -- to start with. I'm literally going to have to custom build every single thing.

the mechanics of the actual vehicle are much more intimidating than the sealing/wiring/aesthetics (im a female!). everything seems pretty solid as far as no active leaks or water damage whatsoever -- seems the previous owner gutted it, patched it -- and then ditched it out.

I'm going to start on the roof -- resealing all my holes. I noticed that the caulk/sealant on what seems to be every seal is no good. Is that common with these things?
Any suggestions on what does the job best there?

also --- unfortunately, i do have a crack in the passenger windshield. Expense seems enormous... any ideas?
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Old 05-09-2021, 04:02 PM   #4
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oops, I live in Arkansas. Recently moved here from Chicago.

and I'll definitely be posting some pictures once I get going on this.
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Old 05-09-2021, 04:55 PM   #5
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As long as there is no major mechanical or structural damage, such as water damage, you could put $15,000 in it and still be ahead of the game.

Pics: https://www.smartrvguide.com/rvs-for...eorgetown-325s

Pics: https://www.smartrvguide.com/L52317277

Review: https://www.motorhome.com/motorhomes...georgetown-33/

From the review, it looks like you will need to be careful with the weight of whatever you add:

The test motorhome had a weight problem with its rear axle, in that it weighed 10,870 pounds and had an 11,000-pound gross axle weight rating (gawr), which left just 180 pounds of payload capacity on the rear axle. That is inadequate for a coach of this size and could easily lead to overloading. Overall, the coach tipped the scales at 16,280 pounds, which left 1,720 pounds of overall cargo capacity before exceeding the manufacturer’s 18,000-pound gvwr.

Fortunately modern materials can be far lighter than hey were two decades ago. It looks like weight added in the back half will be the biggest concern.

Does yours have the Ford or Chevy chassis?

If it's drivable and you have a CAT Scale in your area, I'd drive it over and get it weighed for $12. That will tell you your starting weight for each axle and thus how much the furnishings can weigh.

Good luck,

Ray
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Old 05-09-2021, 05:01 PM   #6
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For sealing the roof is a good start to protect any further damage.
Remove as much as the sealants that are bad.
This will take time and patience but I would suggest Eternabond on major areas two parts are attached.

Here is a link to Ebay where you can buy it cheap.
4" x 50ft rolls and I suspect you may need at least 2 rolls.
This is also good over any holes but make sure you clean well first.
When this stuff hits the surface it is bonded and very hard to remove.
My favorte stuff.
You will se over 2,000 rolls have been bought from this place.
Fresh stock for sure.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32207225074...iABEgKAgvD_BwE
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Old 05-09-2021, 05:05 PM   #7
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I forgot to mention that you can find answers for your older Georgetown on the FB page called " Mid 2000s and older Georgetown RV's"
They are a lot of older rig owners there and you may find some parts you may need or get some suggestions.
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Old 05-09-2021, 05:13 PM   #8
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Here is a place that has a salvaged 1999 GT for parts in MO. from 2017 so its sold.
https://colawrvsalvage.com/wrecked-r...torhome-parts/
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Old 05-09-2021, 05:16 PM   #9
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Here is a video on that model so you can see what it should be like.

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Old 05-09-2021, 05:18 PM   #10
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Here is another video.

https://youtu.be/hNY2CRyC4-E
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Old 05-09-2021, 09:27 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NXR View Post
As long as there is no major mechanical or structural damage, such as water damage, you could put $15,000 in it and still be ahead of the game.

Pics: https://www.smartrvguide.com/rvs-for...eorgetown-325s

Pics: https://www.smartrvguide.com/L52317277

Review: https://www.motorhome.com/motorhomes...georgetown-33/

From the review, it looks like you will need to be careful with the weight of whatever you add:

The test motorhome had a weight problem with its rear axle, in that it weighed 10,870 pounds and had an 11,000-pound gross axle weight rating (gawr), which left just 180 pounds of payload capacity on the rear axle. That is inadequate for a coach of this size and could easily lead to overloading. Overall, the coach tipped the scales at 16,280 pounds, which left 1,720 pounds of overall cargo capacity before exceeding the manufacturer’s 18,000-pound gvwr.

Fortunately modern materials can be far lighter than hey were two decades ago. It looks like weight added in the back half will be the biggest concern.

Does yours have the Ford or Chevy chassis?

If it's drivable and you have a CAT Scale in your area, I'd drive it over and get it weighed for $12. That will tell you your starting weight for each axle and thus how much the furnishings can weigh.

Good luck,

Ray

Its a Ford v10


thanks for the heads up on the weight thing -- i hadnt read anything about that until now. with the price of lumber atm, you dont have to worry about me making ANYTHING too heavy in here

and 15k!?! EEK! I'm hoping to stay right around 2-3k... especially since ill be custom building everything. no oven, even contemplating doing away with the toilet mess/shower conundrum and rely on good ole loves and a composting toilet.

all jokes aside -- if it all goes to hell.... ill sell the motor and get the hell out of dodge.
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Old 05-09-2021, 09:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
For sealing the roof is a good start to protect any further damage.
Remove as much as the sealants that are bad.
This will take time and patience but I would suggest Eternabond on major areas two parts are attached.

Here is a link to Ebay where you can buy it cheap.
4" x 50ft rolls and I suspect you may need at least 2 rolls.
This is also good over any holes but make sure you clean well first.
When this stuff hits the surface it is bonded and very hard to remove.
My favorte stuff.
You will se over 2,000 rolls have been bought from this place.
Fresh stock for sure.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32207225074...iABEgKAgvD_BwE

this is exactly what ive been looking for!! thank you!

i have my work cut out -- as it seems someone else has attempted a really shitty sealant job before me.
pics below
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Old 05-09-2021, 09:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
Here is a place that has a salvaged 1999 GT for parts in MO. from 2017 so its sold.
https://colawrvsalvage.com/wrecked-r...torhome-parts/

parting out at 59k? hm, thats not worrysome eh?
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Old 05-09-2021, 09:58 PM   #14
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OK HERE SHE IS















they DID leave the propane tank, generator, both AC units, water heater, and the furnace -- do they work? who knows.

am i in over my head? absolutely, probably.

i CAN confirm there are NO active leaks, no bad smells, and no obvious signs of water damage -- though i can see someone ATTEMPTED to reseal some of the windshield and its absolutely terrible. anyone have experience this? looks like it just completely popped off the top part -- probably what caused the huge crack.
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Old 05-09-2021, 10:05 PM   #15
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ugh did those work?

if not, heres the attachments....

obviously dont know what im doing.
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Old 05-10-2021, 06:04 AM   #16
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First thing you have to do is start yourself a YouTube channel and film everything. You will get so many followers (and suggestions about everything you are doing wrong - lol) that will help you when you do this the next time.

Good luck. This looks like a great project so have fun with it...
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Old 05-10-2021, 06:19 AM   #17
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Looks like a fun project! Good luck and post pics of your progress.
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Old 05-10-2021, 01:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiimjamie View Post
Thank you! a ton of useful information -- to start with. I'm literally going to have to custom build every single thing.

the mechanics of the actual vehicle are much more intimidating than the sealing/wiring/aesthetics (im a female!). everything seems pretty solid as far as no active leaks or water damage whatsoever -- seems the previous owner gutted it, patched it -- and then ditched it out.

I'm going to start on the roof -- resealing all my holes. I noticed that the caulk/sealant on what seems to be every seal is no good. Is that common with these things?
Any suggestions on what does the job best there?

also --- unfortunately, i do have a crack in the passenger windshield. Expense seems enormous... any ideas?
I agree with everything Iggy says and a add: make sure the bus is sound before you even start to think about the inside. Sleep in it during a heavy rain (sleeping bag and air mattress at a RV park (for toilets, shower), fill up the water to the max, water heater, etc. The plumbing and roof are the most important in my book. How long is the windshield crack?, check out windshield repair places. As long as it does not go to the edge, many can repair it. Look into Bontragers one of many RV salvage places. https://www.google.com/search?gs_ssp...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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Old 05-10-2021, 01:27 PM   #19
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I absolutely recommend taking it to a truck stop and weighing it. See how much weight you can add from what it weighs to what its maximum weight capacity (called the gross vehicle weight rating [GVWR]).

People tend to overbuild and overbuilding can be heavy. RVs are made fast and cheap but it also often equates to light.
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Old 05-10-2021, 01:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiimjamie View Post
Its a Ford v10


thanks for the heads up on the weight thing -- i hadnt read anything about that until now. with the price of lumber atm, you dont have to worry about me making ANYTHING too heavy in here

and 15k!?! EEK! I'm hoping to stay right around 2-3k... especially since ill be custom building everything. no oven, even contemplating doing away with the toilet mess/shower conundrum and rely on good ole loves and a composting toilet.

all jokes aside -- if it all goes to hell.... ill sell the motor and get the hell out of dodge.

Realistically speaking, after seeing the interior pics of your MH, it's going to take a "tad" more than $3K to bring it back to life. Just sayin'.
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