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Old 02-26-2024, 12:41 PM   #1
Troys1
 
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Batteries not charging and 110 not working

2021 Georgetown 36 D7 is plugged into 30 Amp power and surge protector all green with no red. Transfer switch is working but appliances like AC and washing machine won't work. Check all breakers and every fuse I could find. Batteries drain and will only charge if I start the motorhome. We have 120v at the recptical we are plugged into. The inverter says it's charging with the green light blinking and no breaker are popped. I reset all the breakers in the entire coach. I'm running out of ideas! Please help.
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Old 02-26-2024, 01:32 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by troys1 View Post
2021 Georgetown 36 D7 is plugged into 30 Amp power and surge protector all green with no red. Transfer switch is working but appliances like AC and washing machine won't work. Check all breakers and every fuse I could find. Batteries drain and will only charge if I start the motorhome. We have 120v at the recptical we are plugged into. The inverter says it's charging with the green light blinking and no breaker are popped. I reset all the breakers in the entire coach. I'm running out of ideas! Please help.
If no 120Vac items are working how do you know the ATS (automatic transfer switch) is working?
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Old 02-26-2024, 01:35 PM   #3
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I can hear the transfer switch engage and my panel says 120v is present.
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Old 02-26-2024, 01:41 PM   #4
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Then that would be a direct feed to the 2 50amp circuit breakers in the coach power panel. Haven't a clue.
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Old 02-26-2024, 03:15 PM   #5
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What does your multimeter tell you when checking voltages at the sub-breakers in the power panel?
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Old 02-26-2024, 03:41 PM   #6
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Sounds like an issue with your Converter. Inverter has nothing to do with it.
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Old 02-26-2024, 03:47 PM   #7
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Sounds like an issue with your Converter. Inverter has nothing to do with it.
What would the CONverter have to do with the washing machine and A/C?
Sure, the CONverter won't charge if it has no power but we need to verify power panel voltage.
10 minutes with a multimeter will tell you...
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Old 02-26-2024, 03:52 PM   #8
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Moved thread from the Tech and Repair section to the Georgetown sub-forum for better help from other Georgetown owners and possible factory support.
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Old 02-26-2024, 03:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
What would the CONverter have to do with the washing machine and A/C?
Sure, the CONverter won't charge if it has no power but we need to verify power panel voltage.
10 minutes with a multimeter will tell you...
You are correct. Sorry for my oversight.
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Old 02-27-2024, 10:25 AM   #10
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I figured out that it's the transfer switch. Even though it appears to fully engage there is no power to the load side. Since I'm currently in the middle of nowhere I'm not able to get a new switch. Any ideas on a work around? I was considering just moving the line side to the load side of the switch. Bad idea?
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Old 02-27-2024, 11:37 AM   #11
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I figured out that it's the transfer switch. Even though it appears to fully engage there is no power to the load side. Since I'm currently in the middle of nowhere I'm not able to get a new switch. Any ideas on a work around? I was considering just moving the line side to the load side of the switch. Bad idea?
If the wires will reach this will work. DO NOT start genny. Shore power and genny are not compatible and if not on shore power the shore power male connector will be live if genny running. Of course the one ATS output contactor or shore power contactor may be the culprit and sometimes a good rap on the ATS will do the trick. Your call.
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Old 02-27-2024, 03:03 PM   #12
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If the wires will reach this will work. DO NOT start genny. Shore power and genny are not compatible and if not on shore power the shore power male connector will be live if genny running. Of course the one ATS output contactor or shore power contactor may be the culprit and sometimes a good rap on the ATS will do the trick. Your call.
If possible I would connect the output contactor wires (ones going to the rv circuit breaker panel) to the shore power incoming wires to its contactor bypassing both contactors. That would make a direct feed from shore power to the rv circuit breaker panel. Same as those units without an ATS.
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Old 02-27-2024, 05:16 PM   #13
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Very simple to test contactor...
multi meter on the output check for voltage

watch IF the center portion of the contactor MOVES (that is what clicks)
search for a video on how to test contactor
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

just swap the input wires from each contactor
so the generator contactor is now the shorepower and visa versa.

undo the input wires at the contactors to do the swap

-----------------------------------------------------------------
You can buy replacement contactors from an electrical supply store such as.... Grainger
search your location for electrical supply stores and take the faulty contactor for them to match up
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Old 02-27-2024, 06:27 PM   #14
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just swap the input wires from each contactor
so the generator contactor is now the shorepower and visa versa.
This is true if the output contactor is not the one (there are 3) causing the issue.
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Old 02-27-2024, 07:39 PM   #15
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Thank you Bubbles! A couple good taps with a small hammer was all it took. Perfect temporary fix since I'm in Baja and haven't been able to find the part. Thanks to all the replies!
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