Bilstein shocks installed on 364

[Modmike]

I finally got around to installing my Bilstein shocks on my 364. I did not remove the wheels so be be prepared to work hard with big tools in tight spaces if you do the same. Overall the installation was straightforward and working at an easy pace the job took about 2 hours.

I was not sure which part numbers to use so I called 3 different places until I had a consensus on the following:

2 X Bilstein B6 24-234511 for the front
2 X Bilstein B6 24-234528 for the rear

Please note that the proper part depends on your rigs weight so be sure to check with Bilstein for proper fitment.

I used the following tools:

1) Liquid wrench to loosen rusty bolts. Apply liberally and let work for a few hours.
2) Longish 1/2" inch breaker bar. Not too long or you won't be able to get it in.
3) 1 1/8" short socket (these are all for 1/2" ratchets so make sure you have one)
4) 1/2" ratchet
5) Hitch ball wrench with 1 1/8" end. I got an inexpensive one from Walmart that worked out great.

My general technique was to undo the bottom bolt and remove it, letting the shock expand. I then removed the top bolt. In some cases the tools could not be used on the proper side. Case in point was the top of the front shock. For these I put the socket on the nut end that was inside a mounting bracket. I then unscrewed from the bolt end with the hitch wrench. This allowed me to benefit from the ratcheting action of the socket wrench on the nut side.

The new shocks were an exact fit but it was sometimes difficult to adjust the levelling jacks to get the bottom hole to align. I started by installing the top bolt and tightening it down. I then inserted the bottom bolt, with washers for the front shocks, and used my hitch wrench as a lever to compress the shock 2". Once the holes were aligned, I pushed in the bolt.

My general impressions after a very short drive:

1) Bumps were absorbed very differently. Instead of a hard bang I felt a very muted and rubbery thump. There was much less vibration inside. While the ride was stiffer, the feeling was nicer.

2) The coach definitely handled better in turns. I mistakenly took a curve too quickly but was able to ride it out. The whole rig felt more planted and predictable.

3) The shock eliminated nearly all sway and porpoising. Rather than the 2 or 3 up and down cycles that the OEM shocks would need to absorb a bump or change, the new ones only needed 1.

In summary, I started to notice that the rear end was better controlled so I didn't have to constantly correct steering as much. The ride seemed more refined so things rattled less and the bumps were very muted compared to harsh bang of the old ones.

All in all I am happy with the upgrade and ok with the $400 cost. It is incremental so if you are expecting night and day, you will be disappointed. It's really the cumulative effect of small changes that are worthwhile.

[Iggy]

Great! Looking forward in hearing from you after you have your next long trip.
In comparison to the original Ford/Bilstein shocks were the new ones the same diameter and length?
Did the shocks you removed easy to compress than the new ones?

What part number were the new ones you bought?

Thanks

[Modmike]

Originally Posted by Iggy

Great! Looking forward in hearing from you after you have your next long trip.
In comparison to the original Ford/Bilstein shocks were the new ones the same diameter and length?
Did the shocks you removed easy to compress than the new ones?

What part number were the new ones you bought?

Thanks

Iggy,

I edited the post to include the information. I did not check if the old shocks were harder or easier to compress. I would guess they are the same because according to Bilstein, the only difference is the valving.

The different valving makes it harder for the oil to pas the piston, slowing down the shock. It is my opinion that the shocks on my 364 did next to nothing because they valving was too large, greatly reducing the damping effect.

I will check the old shocks later today snd update you.

[Iggy]

Thank your all your updated information.
I have almost 50,000 miles on my Georgetown with new tires and may consider replacing/updating my shocks if the ride is better.
Interesting to hear about how you talked about larger valves in the new shocks. Is this something you researched and found out would make a better firmer ride?

Oh I more thing. I also have the 242 inch wheel base and here is my weight sticker from the wall. Is it close to what yours is?


Thanks again and I think this thread is great information to all with older or more miles on their rigs.

Iggy

[Modmike]

Originally Posted by Iggy

Thank your all your updated information.
I have almost 50,000 miles on my Georgetown with new tires and may consider replacing/updating my shocks if the ride is better.
Interesting to hear about how you talked about larger valves in the new shocks. Is this something you researched and found out would make a better firmer ride?

Thanks again and I think this thread is great information to all with older or more miles on their rigs.

Iggy

Your coach sits on a 22K chassis, which is what I have so I it should be the same part number. You should still call Bilstein to validate.

In terms of valving, the simple answer is something I knew about but researched. Bilsteins are well known for adjustable valving, especially in the off road community. Watch the following video, at about 7:10, he explains the valves:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGCmAzSZz_k

[Iggy]

Information for everyone.
Here is the 2016 Bilstein catalog for motorhomes shocks.

The ones you got are the ones ALL Ford F-53 chassis have since 1998 to present.


My 2012 Motorhome
The only thing I found on my original shock Ford installed is that they have 1.8" pistons but don't say if they are oil filler or gas filled.

[Modmike]

Not sure but I think you are saying that all Ford F53 since 1998 come with Bilsteins. I am not sure about when they started but on my rig you are correct.

The Ford OEM shock is a Bilstein but different part number. I called Bilstein and spoke to their engineers twice. According to them the only difference with the OEM Bilstein is the valving, and fancier outside metal, which is why it really irked me.

Again, the importance is the valving.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by Modmike

Not sure but I think you are saying that all Ford F53 since 1998 come with Bilsteins. I am not sure about when they started but on my rig you are correct.

The Ford OEM shock is a Bilstein but different part number. I called Bilstein and spoke to their engineers twice. According to them the only difference with the OEM Bilstein is the valving, and fancier outside metal, which is why it really irked me.

Again, the importance is the valving.

[Modmike]

These replace the OEM shocks, if I didn't mix them up:

I just went to check the shocks and noted the part numbers:

2 X Bilstein 9u94-18045aa Fronts
2 X Bilstein 9u94-18080aa Rears

It is interesting to note that the new shocks were harder to compress and felt much heavier. Better quality parts, more internal components, I have no idea. As far the Bilstein engineers told me, the only difference is valving.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by Modmike

These replace the OEM shocks, if I didn't mix them up:

I just went to check the shocks and noted the part numbers:

2 X Bilstein 9u94-18045aa Fronts
2 X Bilstein 9u94-18080aa Rears

It is interesting to note that the new shocks were harder to compress and felt much heavier. Better quality parts, more internal components, I have no idea. As far the Bilstein engineers told me, the only difference is valving.

I did more research and OEM shocks are 1.63 diameter pistons.
(Ford motorhome bare chassis catalog 2012 for 22,000lb chassis with 242" wheelbase)

Your new shocks have 1.80" pistons which is a substantial difference.

[Modmike]

Originally Posted by Iggy

I did more research and OEM shocks are 1.63 diameter pistons.
(Ford motorhome bare chassis catalog 2012 for 22,000lb chassis with 242" wheelbase)

Your new shocks have 1.80" pistons which is a substantial difference.

Well that explains a few things. I guess the engineer was full of it.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by Modmike

Well that explains a few things. I guess the engineer was full of it.

No the engineers aren't wrong.
I was only comparing my 2011/2012 Ford chassis specs with the ones you installed.
No mater what it was well worth it to hear from you on your install and how it went.

Great Job!

[Modmike]

I checked the tech specs on my 2016 and the piston is 1.63". Given that, and the fact that the shock is much heavier, they are definitely wrong or uninformed.

[Danesville]

I put those same shocks on mine and have been running them all season, they made a great difference. I put blue lock tite on each bolt and torqued them to 265 pounds as per the F53 chassis manual. Happy camping

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by Modmike

Your coach sits on a 22K chassis, which is what I have.

Update
My 378TS is on a 26,000 lb Ford chassis with the 242" wheel base and not 22,000 lbs.

22,000 lbs is what it was weighed out the door at Forest River after they installed their stuff.


Am I totally wrong or right?

[Modmike]

The sticker you see is the Ford sticker, not FR. You are riding on the same chassis as me. The GVWR is the maximum weight you can carry. It probably weighed in around 20K when it left the factory.

The GCWR 26K rating you see is for towing. This means you can tow up to 4K in addition to your vehicles mass weight of 22K Other than the tongue weight of the trailer that weight is not On your suspension.

Ex: You can load up your coach to a miximum of 22K and tow a car up to 4K.

I left out the hitch weight for illustration purposes.

[Iggy]

We may need to start a new thread on this one.
Here is the data I just got off of the Forest River Website in relations to Georgetown XL and I still don't understand.

• GVWR
• Wheelbase
• GCWR
• GAWR Rear
• GAWR Front
• Fuel Capacity
• Exterior Length
• Exterior Height
• Exterior Width
• Fresh Water
• Gray Water
• Black Water
• Awning Size

369DS

• 24000 lbs.
• 242"
• 30000
• 15500 lbs.
• 9000 lbs.
• 80 gal
• 37' 11"
• 12' 8"
• 101"
• 65 gal.
• 84 gal.
• 84 gal.
• 17 ft

377TS

• 24000 lbs. .
• 242"
• 30000
• 15500 lbs.
• 9000 lbs.
• 80 gal
• 37' 11"
• 12' 8"
• 101"
• 65 gal.
• 42 gal.
• 42 gal.
• 20 ft

378TS

• 24000 lbs. .
• 242"
• 30000
• 15500 lbs.
• 9000 lbs.
• 80 gal
• 37' 4"
• 12' 8"
• 101"
• 65 gal.
• 42 gal.
• 42 gal.
• 20 ft

GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) – is the maximum permissible weight of the unit when fully loaded. It includes all weights, inclusive of all fluids, occupants, cargo, optional equipment and accessories. For safety and product performance do NOT exceed the GVWR.

GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) – is the maximum permissible loaded weight of your motor home and any towed trailer or towed vehicle. Actual GCWR of this vehicle may be limited by the sum of the GVWR and the installed hitch receiver maximum capacity rating; see hitch rating label for detail.

GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating) – is the maximum permissible weight, including cargo, fluids, optional equipment and accessories that can be safely supported by each axle.

UVW (Unloaded Vehicle Weight)* – is the typical weight of the unit as manufactured at the factory. It includes all weight at the unit’s axle(s), including full fuel, all fluids and LP Gas. The UVW does not include cargo, fresh potable water, additional optional equipment or dealer installed accessories.

*Estimated Average based on standard build optional equipment.

CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity) ** – is the amount of weight available for fresh potable water, cargo, passengers, additional optional equipment and accessories. CCC is equal to GVWR minus UVW. Available CCC should accommodate fresh potable water (8.3 lbs per gallon). Before filling the fresh water tank, empty the black and gray tanks to provide for more cargo capacity.

**Estimated Average based on standard build optional equipment.
Each Forest River RV is weighed at the manufacturing facility prior to shipping. A label identifying the unloaded vehicle weight of the actual unit and the cargo carrying capacity is applied to every Forest River RV prior to leaving our facilities.

The load capacity of your unit is designated by weight, not by volume, so you cannot necessarily use all available space when loading your unit.
Actual towing capacity is dependent upon your particular loading and towing circumstances, which includes the GVWR, GAWR and GCWR as well as adequate trailer brakes. Please refer to the Operator's Manual of your vehicle for further towing information.

[SkipBest]

I installed Bilstien heavy duty shocks on our tow Van, a 2012 Chevy 3500. The difference in ride quality is amazing. In the past our van would bounce at almost every bridge or large bump in the road and some times keep bouncing. We have 32,000 miles on the van and the new shocks have made the ride better than new.

I took the easy way out and had my machanic instal the shocks while we were in for inspection and servicing. I would recommend these shocks even at $89.00 each they are really worth the higher price.

Skip

[Modmike]

That still does not explain your sticker though, it says 22K, should be 24K. The sticker says 2010/2011.

What is the year?

[Modmike]

I think I figured it out. The 378TS was riding on a 22K chassis until 2013 when it got bumped to a 24K chassis.

You definitely have a 22K chassis, which matches your sticker. Other than my 6 speed, we have the same chassis.