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Old 05-15-2015, 10:04 PM   #1
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Bowed hydraulic cylinder

Lately I have noticed a grinding noise associated with a considerable delay In movement when extending or retracting the main living room slide on our 2009 379xl.

After some thorough research and observation I came to the conclusion that the noise I was hearing is the threads of the hydraulic cylinder located between the jam nuts rubbing against the mounting plate as it traveled outward or inward. I also noticed that the jam nut locations looked off; considerably farther than the recommended 2 to 3 inches.

So not having the confidence to adjust them myself I took it and requested to have them adjusted. After getting her home today and extending the slide I noticed that noise was shorter in duration and the slide reacted much quicker.

After poking my head into the compartment i quickly noticed that I had a new problem! As you will see in the photo, my hydraulic cylinder is now considerably bowed when it extended.

I am assuming that it is extending to far and is bowing under the pressure.

Any ideas on the adjustments that need to be made?

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Old 05-15-2015, 10:37 PM   #2
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Sorry to see this.
I think you will need to replace the piston as it is now bent and won't retract. It also may have pulled away from it mounting. I have no idea if the dealer goofed or what but this needs to go back there and see if they will take care of replacing it.
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:58 PM   #3
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Hopefully getting it back there tomorrow; but at wits end with them for various other reasons.

So I was holding out hope that someone would offer up a solution that I could implement.

I was Abel to retract the slide
without any issues and the cylinder looks completely normal in the retracted position.
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:00 AM   #4
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There are 2 actuators per slide. What's happening with the other one? Is it the same length, mounted differently (secured), doing the same thing etc.. Take a look and compare for when you take it back to the dealer. The grinding noise from the threads is because the rod is not centered in the bracket hole. That may be due to previous bending of the rod. Good luck.
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:05 AM   #5
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From the picture, it looks like the rod could be shortened by loosening the nut. Probably backing it off about 1/2"-3/4".
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:41 PM   #6
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Here is the service manual as well as picture of page 44 on how to adjust slides.
I bet dealer didn't adjust the nuts correctly.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:23 PM   #7
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Here is the service manual as well as picture of page 44 on how to adjust slides.
I bet dealer didn't adjust the nuts correctly.
IGGY, I am reluctant to mention this because the information you so frequently provide is as they say "spot on." In the section for Adjusting room so it seals In the IN position, take a look at step #4. I do not understand how Jam-Nut 2 could ever be "snug against the bracket."
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:29 PM   #8
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IGGY, I am reluctant to mention this because the information you so frequently provide is as they say "spot on." In the section for Adjusting room so it seals In the IN position, take a look at step #4. I do not understand how Jam-Nut 2 could ever be "snug against the bracket."
It's a mis-print or mis-labeling in the illustration.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:54 PM   #9
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It's a mis-print or mis-labeling in the illustration.
Thank you Oldcoot.
All the adjustments are correct except the numbers for locking the 2 nuts together. When I first adjusted mine I saw the error but understood the procedure. I guess that's just me. Someone without any experience wouldn't understand.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:56 PM   #10
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It's a mis-print or mis-labeling in the illustration.
You've got to marvel at the quality control for their technical documentation.
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Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar, base plates, diode kit
SMI Stay-IN-Play Duo auxiliary braking system
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Old 05-16-2015, 06:16 PM   #11
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You've got to marvel at the quality control for their technical documentation.
Writing and proof reading technical documents is not an easy job especially when you have illustrations with tags on them. It's REAL easy to over look something like that. You can proof read it 6 or 8 times and still miss something. Been there, done that.
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:24 PM   #12
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Thanks everyone!

I spent some time readjusting everything but at the end of the day the cylinder is bowed and needs to be replaced.

Looking back I think it has been since we bought the coach back (private sale) in November. I have consistently heard the thread rubbing but I just wasn't smart enough to pick up on it.

I don't ever remember noticing it being that bad though.

I just can't believe the shop "readjusted" it and considered it fixed. You would think they would have noticed something that obvious and would have recommended replacing it.

Only proves that if you want something done right; you have to do it yourself.

Thanks again!
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Old 05-16-2015, 07:27 PM   #13
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livingouradventure, you don't have to replace the cylinder, you can remove it or have it removed and take it to a hyd. cyl shop and have them straighten it. They do it all the time and have the tools, expertise to do it.
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