City Water fills Tank

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by Max49

Wow, fantastic, I'm going to order one of thos back flo preventers, looks simple enough to put on if just using the pump back and forth does'nt work.
Thanks

It was a piece of cake to install and seems to work much better than the one inside of the pump.

When mine went out about a year ago I tried all of the ideas that have been post here and none of them fixed my pump.

Rather than replace the pump (which still pumps great) with another new pump that would most likely have the back flow preventer (ie.- check valve) go out on it again, I opted for the brass Camco one I posted the photo of above.

Took more time to remove the basement wall in my 5'ver to get at the pump than it did to actually do the check valve install.

All you'll need to do the check valve is some plumbers tape...and your fingers to tighten the check valve to the pump.

[Max49]

Originally Posted by BigRockr

Asked and answered here and everywhere a million times.... Please use GOOGLE! It brings up a ton of results and a bunch from this forum's archives... Just saying.

Sorry about that BigRock; but the question was not directed to you, you don't have to read it much less respond.

If no body asked a question here, say good bye to the Forest River forums

And , Google referred me here,

Thanks for your help,
Max

[Max49]

Thanks JohnD, I ordered this puppy

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

[Scagsdale]

I’ve had this problem over and over in my 328TS. Cycling pump/opening faucets to reset the check valve helps temporarily. Mine is working better now that I got a better water supply hose, believe it or not. Replaced cheap one provided by dealer with nice Camco hose. Increased water pressure (yes, I have a regulator but the flow was decreasing to barely useable. New hose fixed that problem). After hose replacement the freshwater tank fill problem appears to have gone away. Haha. Time will tell...

[bedubya]

Originally Posted by Scagsdale

I’ve had this problem over and over in my 328TS. Cycling pump/opening faucets to reset the check valve helps temporarily. Mine is working better now that I got a better water supply hose, believe it or not. Replaced cheap one provided by dealer with nice Camco hose. Increased water pressure (yes, I have a regulator but the flow was decreasing to barely useable. New hose fixed that problem). After hose replacement the freshwater tank fill problem appears to have gone away. Haha. Time will tell...

I love it! Logic does not always prevail. Who cares if it makes sense, as long as it works.

[wanderer44]

I had a problem of my water tank filling up when hooked to city water. It could result from a combination of turning the city water valve ON, while the pump is still turned on. But if the back flow check valve on the pump is weak or stuck, it will start to fill the tank. Eventually filling the tank and over flowing. Then you will have to turn off the city water to avoid flooding the area. There is no shut off valve on the overflow to the tank,NOR DO YOU WANT ONE THERE!
I installed this Brass check valve on the inlet side of the water pump. Cost was about $8.00 and did it myself. This should eliminate and prevent tank from filling on city water hooked up. My water pump is under the shower on my Dynamax 2019 Isata 3 24FW.

[Scagsdale]

Well, freshwater tank started filling again. Haha. Was good for over two weeks with the new hose. Then moved to new RV park. Tank started filling again. Switching from city water to pump and back again tends to bring the problem on if you're going to have it.

One other thing I've noticed. If I'm on the pump and doing higher volume stuff like showers, when I go back to the city water (without the turning the faucet on routine) I usually don't have a problem until next time I have to go on the pump and back to city again. Maybe the high flow with the pump on cleans out the check valve?

Who knows. This originally happened when the coach was still in warranty. I took it to the dealer. They said they fixed it. Happened again in pretty short order, so I got on the message boards and found out about the check valve. There's no way I'd replace the water pump or spend big bucks having some RV mechanic "fix" the problem. Don't really want to install something that will take manual fooling around, either. Worst case, when the fresh tank fills, I go to the pump. When I've worked the tank down with the pump, I go back to the city water and most of the time it works fine until I have to go back to the pump again. It's not so bad. Keeps my fresh tank clean too, since there's water running through it fairly often. YMMV.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by Scagsdale

. There's no way I'd replace the water pump or spend big bucks having some RV mechanic "fix" the problem. Don't really want to install something that will take manual fooling around, either. Worst case, when the fresh tank fills, I go to the pump. When I've worked the tank down with the pump, I go back to the city water and most of the time it works fine until I have to go back to the pump again. It's not so bad. Keeps my fresh tank clean too, since there's water running through it fairly often. YMMV.

$10 bucks and 10 minutes of your time will fix this problem forever...

Well, I paid $13 bucks for it...but I was out in the middle of New Mexico nowhere near a big city, so bought mine from a local RV repair shop and did it myself.

[GuyBonin]

I had the same problem. Turned off city water and disconnect the hose from the camper then used the water pump until I used all the water in the tank. Reconnected the city water and have not had any more problems.

[NMWildcat]

The best answer is never use the pump when you have pressure from the city input. That is what usually causes this problem with the check valve in the pump. Notice I said usually, for those folks who actually had one fail.

Then you don't have to add another check valve (and restriction) or keep having to reset the one in the pump.

Going to use the pump? Turn off the city water and release the pressure first.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

The best answer is never use the pump when you have pressure from the city input. That is what usually causes this problem with the check valve in the pump. Notice I said usually, for those folks who actually had one fail.

Then you don't have to add another check valve (and restriction) or keep having to reset the one in the pump.

Going to use the pump? Turn off the city water and release the pressure first.

Lots of people have had them fail...myself included.

And, by putting a good check valve in front of the pump...that will eliminate the need to reset the cheap one inside of the pump.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

Lots of people have had them fail...myself included.

And, by putting a good check valve in front of the pump...that will eliminate the need to reset the cheap one inside of the pump.

Glad it works for you, as I know you are very proud of it.
I just see it as unnecessary.
And I honestly have never met anyone in real life that had one fail that couldn't be fixed by resetting it and then not use city and pump at the same time.
But, yours is a belt and suspenders fix!

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Glad it works for you, as I know you are very proud of it.
I just see it as unnecessary.
And I honestly have never met anyone in real life that had one fail that couldn't be fixed by resetting it and then not use city and pump at the same time.
But, yours is a belt and suspenders fix!

Me thinks you've been spending too much time by yourself out in the desert...

[Max49]

I ordered and received a camco check valve, backflo preventer; but I decided to go this route insteadhttps://www.amazon.com/PVC-Ball-Valv...gateway&sr=8-2
This way I can leave it open and see if the valve in the pump is working right, and if it isnt, I'll just close the valve.
Have not tried it yet, had to rewinterize but I'll l;et us know how it works when I find out.

BTW, mine is threaded and was simple to install

[Scagsdale]

I'm really careful not to turn on the water pump when the city water is on. That's not causing my problem...

Still filling today, so I'll do the faucet routine with the pump on again. If that doesn't work, it's back to the pump again. Not really a big deal.

I agree that adding more restrictions to the plumbing wouldn't be my first choice - the water pressure is low enough as it is. It's actually better with the water pump than it is with the city water. I need to get myself an adjustable water pressure regulator. Using a cheapo Walmart pressure regulator now - the new hose helped with water pressure but not enough. Can't find a place who has adjustable regulators. The local RV dealer was sold out. I'll order it from Amazon when I get home from this trip.

[Crusader 340]

I had the same problem when my 5er was new. I agree with several others as check valve in pump probably has some debris in it. I ran alot of water through the pump and it finally cleared its self and has work fine ever since.

[Boots49]

I am confused, if you put the check valve before the pump & you are hooked up to city water, if you turn on the pump, would the city water still go into your fresh water tank. I was thinking that you would need two check valves, one before the pump & one after the pump to prevent the water from going into the fresh water tank. Hope someone can clarify.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by Boots49

I am confused, if you put the check valve before the pump & you are hooked up to city water, if you turn on the pump, would the city water still go into your fresh water tank. I was thinking that you would need two check valves, one before the pump & one after the pump to prevent the water from going into the fresh water tank. Hope someone can clarify.

Since the pump has a direct line to the fresh water tank, you only need one check valve to keep water from flowing backwards into the fresh water tank.

I put mine in front of the water pump...

Others like theirs after the pump.

Probably no right or wrong as to which is better.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by Boots49

I am confused, if you put the check valve before the pump & you are hooked up to city water, if you turn on the pump, would the city water still go into your fresh water tank. I was thinking that you would need two check valves, one before the pump & one after the pump to prevent the water from going into the fresh water tank. Hope someone can clarify.

The water pump has its own check valve.
True, it may be prevented from working correctly by debris, or could possibly be faulty and need replacing. Most likely ,it just needs to be reset by the method explained in several earlier posts.
If you use both city connection and onboard pump at the same time, it may or may not cause water to fill your fresh tank. It depends on pressures involved and the state of your pumps check valve. I know of folks who do this and never have a problem. Others aren't so lucky.
Thousands of RVers have no need for additional check valves.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by NMWildcat

Thousands of RVers have no need for additional check valves.

And countless thousands of others do!

And when the problem does rear it's ugly head, it is a much cheaper...better...easier to do...and a more permanent fix than either replacing the pump or getting a repair kit for the pump.

I got three years out of my pump before the check valve in it went bad...

And I'm sure it is probably the same water pump that just about everyone here has in their RV's.