Considering Outside Winter Storage

[Jmsx2]

Has anyone stored their Georgetown outside for the winter months? If so, how did your Coach hold up. We live in SW Pa. Snow, ice & cold.

I will put a fitted cover her, pull the batteries, some charcoal & moth balls in it along with some sta-bil in the tank. I'll also run antifreeze through the system and "Hope" I do the residential fridge correctly.

In the past we had indoor storage but we want to leave her out. Hope to take a trip after the holidays.

We've stored our TT outside years ago with no worries.

Interested in hearing your experiences.

Thanks.


John & Janine
Pazzo the Maltese
2014 Georgetown 328 TSF
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (Toad)

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[FrankG]

My neighbor stored his diesel pusher outside with a cover for 10 or 11 years. The day he sold it, it looked like the day he brought it home. Located in NW Ohio. I don't believe it ever saw a salty road.

[Jmsx2]

Originally Posted by FrankG

My neighbor stored his diesel pusher outside with a cover for 10 or 11 years. The day he sold it, it looked like the day he brought it home. Located in NW Ohio. I don't believe it ever saw a salty road.

Thanks FrankG.

We've stored her indoors (Heated). Very expensive. Our plans are to retire in 6 plus years and some traveling. I'm quite particular about taking care of everything we own. So I want to make sure I do it right.


John & Janine
Pazzo the Maltese
2014 Georgetown 328 TSF
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (Toad)

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[dutch]

John,

I store ours outside put a fitted cover over it, blow all the lines out with air, put anti- freeze in make sure have a full tank off gas. leave fridg doors open, leave battery's in and plug into 110v, also put charcoal and dryer sheets thru out. Every month run engine and run gen. Have done this with every motorhome we had. Had no problems come spring plus I can tinker outside in the MH in the winter months just hook a spacer heater in there. Hope that helps john.

[JBP]

We stored our coach outside in Kansas. No major problems. Checked it once a week and ran the generator for 1 hours every 30 days. Dewinterized it and checked tires, fluids and hit the road.

[Jmsx2]

Originally Posted by dutch

John,

I store ours outside put a fitted cover over it, blow all the lines out with air, put anti- freeze in make sure have a full tank off gas. leave fridg doors open, leave battery's in and plug into 110v, also put charcoal and dryer sheets thru out. Every month run engine and run gen. Have done this with every motorhome we had. Had no problems come spring plus I can tinker outside in the MH in the winter months just hook a spacer heater in there. Hope that helps john.

Unfortunately we'll have to keep it in a storage lot as we have no place to keep her at home. For that reason I'll need to pull all the batteries and bring them home.

How do you winterize your ice maker?

Thanks.


John & Janine
Pazzo the Maltese
2014 Georgetown 328 TSF
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (Toad)

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[ProfChuck]

When we had our first trailer (campers before that) we stored it outside because that was all we could do. After a couple of years, some of the plastic fittings on the roof cracked and we didn't see them until too late (UV damage) because they were under the snow. The snow melted and ran down the refrigerator air vent and onto the floor and when we went camping in the spring (after a few more spring rains, etc.) I stepped on the "right spot" on the floor and went through. Relative to the cost of the trailer, the repairs were pretty extensive since the water had gotten not only on the floor, but, also into the walls and much of the front of the trailer had to be rebuilt. So, we we decided to store it inside (unheated) in a barn we built specifically for the trailer and tow vehicle. It was a pole barn and had a cement floor and electricity (30 amp TT hookup) since it was on our property. Now, 30 years and 3 trailers later, that barn is still functioning beautifully and our trailers have all stayed like brand new. Also, it lets me work on it (even though the slideouts are in) during the fall and spring months and not worry about the snow and rain. Things like checking tires, batteries, brakes, bearings, etc. aren't a problem. You still have to winterize, but, I wouldn't be without indoor storage. The last TT (before the new one) lasted 23 seasons and looked like new when we traded it in (wanted more space). Inside is the way to go if you can do it, but, if you want things to last for the long haul, indoor storage is a great way to go, especially if you can keep it at your house. One thing I would do if doing it over is to put in a 14 ft. clearance in the barn. Our first trailer (the one that the floor dissolved) was only 8 ft. tall so we put in a 12 ft. clearance which prevents us from putting in a 5th wheel. Not a too bad thing since we like the TT better for our use, but, it could be a problem if the unit is over about 11-1/2 feet tall. By the way the building is 30x40, so our 35 ft Windjammer just fits.

[JimF]

We are facing the same thing ourselves, winterizing outside. We had a fifth wheel we stored out one winter without good results. The snow load broke the ac covers in, had to replace the covers in the spring. Hence I'm building a box to go over the ac's.

You asked about the ice maker, now that's it's own story. I blow out the air lines on the rig and while doing that you turn on the refrigerator to cycle the ice maker and blow water out of that line, then blow out the water dispenser tank and valve. Then what I do is disconnect the water feed line to the water tank from the water control valve and drain the tank from outside. Be careful of the heat pad around the water valve, and yes it's messy. The other way I did it (not recommended) is I pulled the tank out of the refer. Two screws hold it to the wall of the refer, then a water in and out line. Not bad getting the screws out and the water lines off BUT the second you pull the in water line you will have water everywhere. Home that helps.

We normally travel south every winter this will be our first start over in the cold in 8 years, ugh.

Good luck.


JimF

Ps, just remembered, we did try using RV antifreeze pumped through the water lines to winterizing the refer, don't do it! It took weeks to get the smell of antifreeze out of the ice and dispenser water. Also the refer reeked of antifreeze smell for a couple of months. Now we strictly do a blow down, no water no freeze. DO use antifreeze in all the p traps, toilet and some extra in the tanks just to be safe .

Pps, travel trailer and 5th wheel winterizing is somewhat different than motorhome, having had all they really don't relate well.

[ProfChuck]

Yes, TT's are much easier to winterize. I also like the idea that I don't have to take my "home" in for an oil change. I would imagine the maintenance is much more expensive on the larger motor homes as well, but, the space is nice especially if you are full timing it or are out for long periods. The longest we have lived in our TT is 6 months, but, we did have full hookups the whole time - and it was a lot easier to "pack" for our vacation because we were living in our vacation home! I'm winterizing as I write this.

[Jmsx2]

Thanks for all the great advise. We've had TT for years on a seasonal site always winterized it. We have since traded it in on a Park Model.

Now as far as our Coach the winterizing is similar to a TT with exception of the residential fridge.

I plan on using a custom cover which will prevent the UV from damaging the plastic vents with no worries of leaks.

Oil Changes and basic maintenance I do myself. Very easy.

Again thanks so much and keep the suggestions coming.


John & Janine
Pazzo the Maltese
2014 Georgetown 328 TSF
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (Toad)

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Bobbyba]

Agree with all the other advise given in this thread. I would like to empathize blowing the fridge water lines out of all the residual water in the lines. In fact I recommend disconnecting all the lines that supply water to the fridge and ice maker. Disconnect supply lines and run ice maker until the complete unit is free of water. Friend of mine did not empty ice maker and the residual water in the unit froze and expanded, which cracked the housing of the ice maker. Good Luck.

[Jmsx2]

Originally Posted by Bobbyba

Agree with all the other advise given in this thread. I would like to empathize blowing the fridge water lines out of all the residual water in the lines. In fact I recommend disconnecting all the lines that supply water to the fridge and ice maker. Disconnect supply lines and run ice maker until the complete unit is free of water. Friend of mine did not empty ice maker and the residual water in the unit froze and expanded, which cracked the housing of the ice maker. Good Luck.

Interesting. So you're saying if I disconnect the supply line to the fridge and run the ice maker it will purge all water from that system. After it cycles a few times.

I would of thought there would be a need of some pressure in the system to push the water through the ice maker (i.e. Air while blowing out the lines).

No RV Antifreeze in the fridge -correct?

Thanks


John & Janine
Pazzo the Maltese
2014 Georgetown 328 TSF
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (Toad)

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[Bobbyba]

Jmsx2, While disconnecting the water supply lines allow for water in line to escape, water will still exist in the ice maker housing. Running the ice maker will empty the housing, thus not leaving any water to freeze.
You are correct, I never add antifreeze to my drinking water lines.

[ScottBrownstein]

If you can disconnect the 1/4 inch line from the solenoid valve at the base of the reefer, running a couple of icemaker cycles "should" allow the water to drain from the line that runs up the back of the unit. I do seem to recall that one of my reefers had the supply line to the solenoid connecting to the top of the valve and the water line to the icemaker connecting to the bottom. This might leave some water in the valve itself and don't ask me how I know it will freeze and crack over the winter. I do worry about water left in a filter if there is one.

As far as water in the icemaker itself, there are no pipes and valves in the icemaker unit since it lives in a below freezing environment anyway.

[Jmsx2]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

If you can disconnect the 1/4 inch line from the solenoid valve at the base of the reefer, running a couple of icemaker cycles "should" allow the water to drain from the line that runs up the back of the unit. I do seem to recall that one of my reefers had the supply line to the solenoid connecting to the top of the valve and the water line to the icemaker connecting to the bottom. This might leave some water in the valve itself and don't ask me how I know it will freeze and crack over the winter. I do worry about water left in a filter if there is one.

As far as water in the icemaker itself, there are no pipes and valves in the icemaker unit since it lives in a below freezing environment anyway.

Good stuff. My shut off valve to the fridge is behind the pantry. I'll blow all the air out and disconnect the fridge line there. I'll then turn the ice maker on and let it cycle.

We will be camping this weekend at Put-In-Bay. No need for ice this weekend so I'll do this on Saturday and let it run over night. I'm thinking that should do it.

Is there any chance of burning something up by running it with no water being supplied to the fridge?

I'll pull the filter out as well when this is done.

Thanks everyone.


John & Janine
Pazzo the Maltese
2014 Georgetown 328 TSF
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (Toad)

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums