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Old 10-24-2014, 07:51 PM   #1
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Dicor cracking on front and back cap??

Posted this in general maint and repair and didn't get any replies.. Hope to do better here..

Well while sealing my running lights I noticed that I have quite a few rather large cracks/gaps in the Dicor on the cap seals in the front and back of coach..(.Coach is 4yrs old). And have a few questions I hope someone can help me out..

Can I just clean the old Dicor with denatured alcohol (or mineral spirits) and caulk over it??( I know mineral spirits are rough on rubber)

Do I just fix the areas that are cracking..Or should I just re coat all the seams again??


And the most important question....how much weight can the roof support..I'm 6' 5" and 285... Can I safely walk on the roof without damaging it??

Opinions..thoughts?

Thanks in advance...
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:06 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjester View Post
Posted this in general maint and repair and didn't get any replies.. Hope to do better here..

Well while sealing my running lights I noticed that I have quite a few rather large cracks/gaps in the Dicor on the cap seals in the front and back of coach..(.Coach is 4yrs old). And have a few questions I hope someone can help me out..

Can I just clean the old Dicor with denatured alcohol (or mineral spirits) and caulk over it??( I know mineral spirits are rough on rubber)

Do I just fix the areas that are cracking..Or should I just re coat all the seams again??


And the most important question....how much weight can the roof support..I'm 6' 5" and 285... Can I safely walk on the roof without damaging it??

Opinions..thoughts?

Thanks in advance...
Its doesn't matter how much you weight, its how much you'll apply in lbs /sq. inch. Easy way around that that problem...lift aboard some thin plywood or luan before you go up. Once there "walk" across by moving and walking on the sheets, say 4' x 4' would work. That way your weight is spread out. New roof would probably be ok, old roof will have weak spots and you don't want to find them.
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:10 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjester View Post
Posted this in general maint and repair and didn't get any replies.. Hope to do better here..

Well while sealing my running lights I noticed that I have quite a few rather large cracks/gaps in the Dicor on the cap seals in the front and back of coach..(.Coach is 4yrs old). And have a few questions I hope someone can help me out..

Can I just clean the old Dicor with denatured alcohol (or mineral spirits) and caulk over it??( I know mineral spirits are rough on rubber)

Do I just fix the areas that are cracking..Or should I just re coat all the seams again??


And the most important question....how much weight can the roof support..I'm 6' 5" and 285... Can I safely walk on the roof without damaging it??

Opinions..thoughts?

Thanks in advance...
As for the sealant it should not be cracking already. But since it is it should be cleaned and recoated as long as it doesn't get grossly thick, then it must be renewed. Treat the full length of any cracked seam, something is wrong with the app or material when applied when new.
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:17 PM   #4
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I'm going to try to repair using a ladder..to avoid any issues and only go on it if I can't reach it from the ladder..

I don't know how long dicor is supposed to last.. I know the coach spent its first year in Vermont ..and the last 3yrs here in Florida....What I do know is that the Florida Sun/heat will pretty much destroy regular caulking in less than a yr..
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:29 PM   #5
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Speedjester,
When I check my roof, I will clean the old decor with alcohol or laquer thinner (because I ran out of alcohol) and fill the cracks / screw heads I see but I will over lap when using the self leveling. On my marker lights and corner seams, ect.. I use the non-sag Decor. I try to use as little as possible to keep the seams small but filling the cracks.
A freshly opened tube will stay good for about a month with a nail in the end. Since the opened tubes do not stay good very long, I usualy will use the whole tube of self leveling on all seams that look like they might be an issue.
Follow the advice above and use plywood to distribute your weight and be careful not to step on the vents or skylight.
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:41 PM   #6
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Well I'm going to try and re caulk all the seams... Ordered 8 tubes of Dicor self leveling..(hope it's enough?)

I know it's self leveling.. How thick should it be put on??
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:53 PM   #7
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It took me 10 tubes to totally cover the front & back cap, antenna, vents, shower moon roof, etc. Cleaned the old dicor with mineral spirits then applied overtop. Maybe overkill but like you, this is the first inspection of the roof in 4 years. Will now do it annually before winter.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...nce-69997.html
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjester View Post
Well I'm going to try and re caulk all the seams... Ordered 8 tubes of Dicor self leveling..(hope it's enough?)

I know it's self leveling.. How thick should it be put on??
l can do all the roof seams on my 34' with 1 or 2 tubes of the self leveling and 1 tube of the non sag for all the wall areas. You'll have pleanty for the years to come.
You will see the self leveling levels more in high heat but is slugish this time of year in Ohio.
Start with an area other that a seam (like the skylight or antenna base) to get used to the flow and leveling speed. You will want just enough to cover the area in 1 coat.
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Old 10-25-2014, 09:54 PM   #9
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Thanks everyone.. Appreciate the help..
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