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01-26-2015, 06:52 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzie
I'm talking about the cord that plugs into the 15 amp house receptacle or do you have an adapter that goes directly from your 30 amp cord to the 15 amps receptacle?
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I use an adapter.
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01-26-2015, 07:22 PM
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#22
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Dazed & Confused
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: NW PA
Posts: 380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazymace
I use an adapter.
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Those little black cheapie adapaters are known to cause problems now and then.
__________________
~Mike & Kim~
2014 Rockwood Windjammer 3008W Diamond Package
2020 Ram 2500 6.4L Crew cab 4WD, 4.10 Axel
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01-27-2015, 01:41 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: San Jacinto
Posts: 255
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Don't buy a cheapie....get a good one!
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01-27-2015, 08:46 PM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 76
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Have been a contractor for 40 years and retired as an HVAC contractor. All the posts above gave great diagnosis.
Is garage detached from house?Maybe the underground circuit developed s short.
With an electrical issue it is wise to pay the fee for s licensed electrician.
Have any mice problems?
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01-27-2015, 08:51 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3C and S
Have been a contractor for 40 years and retired as an HVAC contractor. All the posts above gave great diagnosis.
Is garage detached from house?Maybe the underground circuit developed s short.
With an electrical issue it is wise to pay the fee for s licensed electrician.
Have any mice problems?
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Garage is attached. I have 2 different outside circuits on GFI. Both trip. No mice problems I'm aware of. I do plan on getting an electrician to look at it.
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01-27-2015, 09:26 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SD
Posts: 441
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Is the RV the only item that trips the GFCI? If so then it's likely your RV that's not getting along with the GFCI. These guys are giving you sound advice regarding disconnecting the neutral conductors from the panel in the RV. That will almost certainly narrow your problem down to one circuit in the RV. Most people don't know how a GFCI works but basically if you have a short between the neutral and ground anywhere in the RV it will trip the GFCI on your garage but it won't do it unless you have the main breaker in the RV on. The GFCI is measuring outgoing power on the ungrounded (hot) conductor and also measuring the incoming power on the grounded (neutral) conductor. If there is any leakage to ground from the neutral conductor the GFCI will trip. Most people just cuss at them but they are doing their job.
__________________
2015 Sierra 357TRIP
2012 Ram 2500 CCSB 6.7CTD
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01-29-2015, 02:09 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob
The fact that you say that nothing is on is pointing more toward a burned up heating element in the WH. When the element burns out, many times, it causes a ground fault. This can easily be checked. Make sure RV is disconnected from AC power. Open the outside panel on the WH, You will see two connections to the heating element. Disconnect both, ( remember which terminal they were connected to) Tape them to prevent shorting to anything. Now plug in shore power, If the GFI does not trip, the heating element was the problem It only takes 1-2 seconds of being powered to burn out the element. They are relatively simple and inexpensive to replace and can be found at big box stores.
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Bingo Flybob. You nailed it. Removed the cover on the element (which was no easy task) removed the 2 wires, plugged into a GFI and it worked fine. Yahoo. Not sure a good electrician could have figured it out. You saved me a bunch of money$$$. Gotta remove the element and find a replacement.
Next question- My owners manual says to turn on both gas and electric to the WH. Why would I need both on if connected to power?
I love this forum. Have learned so much!! Thanks to everyone!!
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01-29-2015, 02:15 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Bronston, KY
Posts: 734
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The only time I use the gas water heat is when we are taking back to back showers and I need a quick recovery. Otherwise it's the campgrounds electric
Bill
__________________
Life is a journey, not a destination.
2005 Georgetown 359ts
Bill & Virginia, Kentucky
Nights camped in 2011...78 , 2012...73,
Nights camped in 2013...123, 2014 ...101
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01-29-2015, 02:27 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Now I'm trying to remove the element. Takes a huge socket and too much of the gas apparatus in the way.
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01-29-2015, 02:47 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazymace
Bingo Flybob. You nailed it. Removed the cover on the element (which was no easy task) removed the 2 wires, plugged into a GFI and it worked fine. Yahoo. Not sure a good electrician could have figured it out. You saved me a bunch of money$$$. Gotta remove the element and find a replacement.
Next question- My owners manual says to turn on both gas and electric to the WH. Why would I need both on if connected to power?
I love this forum. Have learned so much!! Thanks to everyone!!
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Some on here will say don't go to Lowe's/HomeDepot for a replacement.
Some on here will say do go to Lowe's/HomeDepot for a replacement.
Be sure to take the bad one with you and make sure you get one for 110v.
Our sob 5er had a switch inside, I only replaced the element once.
The switch is at the heater SO we're on our 3rd from Lowe's, next yr I'm sure we'll be on our 4th  , we never turn it off and almost never use gas.
ab&jb
__________________
2012 Georgetown 360
SHE wanted "a new motorhome" 
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01-29-2015, 03:39 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abjb
Some on here will say don't go to Lowe's/HomeDepot for a replacement.
Some on here will say do go to Lowe's/HomeDepot for a replacement.
Be sure to take the bad one with you and make sure you get one for 110v.
Our sob 5er had a switch inside, I only replaced the element once.
The switch is at the heater SO we're on our 3rd from Lowe's, next yr I'm sure we'll be on our 4th , we never turn it off and almost never use gas.
ab&jb |
Might just order from Suburban.
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01-29-2015, 03:41 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazymace
Might just order from Suburban.
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01-29-2015, 03:41 PM
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#33
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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How close is your nearest rv dealer?
Looks to me like 3 or 4 rv dealers 30 miles from you in Bend Oregon
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01-29-2015, 03:45 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Or wait til I get to Tucson. Plenty of dealers there. Looks like I'm going to need help getting the element out. They sure didn't make it easy or I'm looking at it wrong. Can't get to it.
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01-29-2015, 03:48 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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__________________
Fonzie
2011 Rockwood 8319SS with ProPride 3P hitch/GoodYear Marathons/TST TPMS 507
2019 F350 Ruby Red 6.7l diesel 3.31 axle electronic locker
Yamaha 3000iseb generator:Progressive Ind. EMS-HW30C : Eastern Ontario
Nights Camped: 2014 (18) 2015 (18) 2016 (36) 2017 (32) 2018 (42) 2019 (28) 2020 (35)
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01-29-2015, 04:15 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Exactly what I needed. Now if I can find an element and the wrench before I leave Monday. Thanks so much
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01-29-2015, 05:19 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Found an element, but not the wrench. Search continues tomorrow.
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01-30-2015, 03:33 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Shoutout to Flybob and Fonzie. Gave me everything I needed to solve my problem. Found an element and wrench this morning. My problem now is I can't budge the old element. Locked in. Put some penetrating oil on it. So far, no luck. Running out of time. At least I have gas as a fallback.
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01-30-2015, 03:38 PM
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#39
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krazymace
Shoutout to Flybob and Fonzie. Gave me everything I needed to solve my problem. Found an element and wrench this morning. My problem now is I can't budge the old element. Locked in. Put some penetrating oil on it. So far, no luck. Running out of time. At least I have gas as a fallback.
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Sad to say you most likely need to change the anode as well (different socket there too 1 1/16). The anode's job is to prevent rust and corrosion in the tank. Sounds like your heating element is rusted in there good.
Try some penetrating oil and GENTLY tapping on the metal of the element. Pounding on it may crack the porcelain coating on the tank walls.
A long "cheater bar" and a short extension will also help loosen that stubborn element (and anode).
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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01-30-2015, 03:41 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Sunriver, Oregon
Posts: 502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769
Sad to say you most likely need to change the anode as well (different socket there too 1 1/16). The anode's job is to prevent rust and corrosion in the tank. Sounds like your heating element is rusted in there good.
Try some penetrating oil and GENTLY tapping on the metal of the element. Pounding on it may crack the porcelain coating on the tank walls.
A long "cheater bar" and a short extension will also help loosen that stubborn element (and anode).
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Anode is fine. Wrench doesn't give me much clearance with side of MH. Hard to get leverage with a cheater bar.
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