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Old 11-02-2014, 10:38 PM   #1
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Electrical outlet problem

I have a 2002 Georgetown 326 and having a electrical outlet problem. I had 2 heaters plugged into an outlet (one on high 1500w and the other on low 750w) near the dinette outlet. Well, they worked fine until I turned other heater on high in the morning. Shortly after, I heard a crackling noise in another outlet located in the bedroom (all it had was a laptop power cord plugged into it. That caused the outlet with the crackling noise and several outlets in the 'chain' to go dead, as well as the converter and the fridge power. I checked the breakers for voltage and they were fine. I then took out the affected outlet box that made the noise in the bedroom, and snugged the wires down good. Well, strangely, the affected outlet and 3 others started working as well as the converter. Only 2 outlets (one being the outlet the heaters were plugged in to) do not work and the fridge on shore power doesnt work ( we are using propane to power the fridge). So, it seems snugging those wires down improved the situation a bit.

The circuits that were unaffected seem to be on the GFCI circuit. The bathroom has a GFCI outlet breaker. But the affected circuits dont seem to be on that GFCI circuit.

Since I have 50 amp service, would I have another GFCI circuit located in the coach? I looked all over, but only see the one in the bathroom.

ANY help with this issue would be greatly appreciated!!
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Old 11-02-2014, 10:45 PM   #2
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You exceeded the 15 amp circuits and the receptacles are only rated for 15 amps and are on 15 amp circuit breakers.
1500 watts and 750 watt = 2250 total watts and using 120 volts it equals 18.75 amps.
The crackling may have been the actual arching of the contacts within the receptacle.
Don't put both heaters in the same outlet/circuit or you probably are asking for a problem/fire. Look at the heater male plugs ends for burnt metal or darkened.
Plane and simply you over loaded the receptacles max amps.
What kind of answer are you looking for?
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Old 11-02-2014, 11:33 PM   #3
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Well, before I began working on the outlet box that caused the problem, that affected box and 5 other boxes did not work, that is 6 total. After working on the originally affected receptacle, that allowed 3 other circuit outlets to work. So, now, only 2 outlet boxes do not work (including the fridge on shoer power).

Could it be that the outlet I worked on is still the problem and is causing the 2 remaining outlets from working properly? Is it possible I really just need to replace the affected outlet box that was making the sizzling noise? Seems odd that after working on the affected box, it only allowed 3 of the 5 outlet boxes to work and not all of them.
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Old 11-03-2014, 12:22 AM   #4
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Sounds like you overloaded wiring and probably burned up the wire in a portion of the series wiring run. You may have to pull new wiring between those two outlets and replace outlets too. If a gfic outlet was in the other portion it may have saved the other run. Running them all night at near 20 amps had wire good and hot. Turning up second heater taking you up to around 25amps sizzling!



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Old 11-03-2014, 12:47 AM   #5
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It takes a couple of minutes at 25 amps to trip the breaker (they use heat to open).

That is enough time to really do a number on your electrical equipment. Most likely there is a failed GFCI you have yet to find or a burned wire at the outlets.
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Old 11-03-2014, 07:46 AM   #6
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Unless you are an experienced electrician I would not try to fix this yourself after having that big of a problem. You don't know for sure what and where damage has occurred so why risk your life on a possible electrical fire.
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:58 AM   #7
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Unless you are an experienced electrician I would not try to fix this yourself after having that big of a problem. You don't know for sure what and where damage has occurred so why risk your life on a possible electrical fire.
I agree with Bill here.
I have been working the electrical trades since 1968. Please don't take this wrong.
Sounds like you have a small amount of knowledge about electricity and you need to have someone who can easily identify the problem and repair as needed. What you have said and the questions you have asked shows me you really need someone experienced to work on it.
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Old 11-03-2014, 10:00 AM   #8
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It takes a couple of minutes at 25 amps to trip the breaker (they use heat to open).

That is enough time to really do a number on your electrical equipment. Most likely there is a failed GFCI you have yet to find or a burned wire at the outlets.

As always Herk you always demonstrate and show the problems very clearly. Thanks. But I feel this issue needs a qualified person to repair.
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Old 11-03-2014, 03:41 PM   #9
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Thanks for the photos and advice. My knowledge of electrical systems is limited, but I feel strongly that there is a (hidden) GFCI hiding somewhere in the coach. I did replace the at fault outlet box and in doing that, allowed 4 other outlet boxes to begin working again. I suspect those outlets were in the daisy chain. The GFCI outlet that I could locate is in the bathroom, but I am 100% sure the previously affected outlet was not on that circuit. I believe, as well as a couple of others, that there is another GFCI outlet in that coach as it has 50amp service.

Is anyone here familiar with a 2002 Georgetown 326 model? If so, could you please help us in locating the other GFCI(if in fact there is another one)?
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Old 11-03-2014, 03:51 PM   #10
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Thanks for the photos and advice. My knowledge of electrical systems is limited, but I feel strongly that there is a (hidden) GFCI hiding somewhere in the coach. I did replace the at fault outlet box and in doing that, allowed 4 other outlet boxes to begin working again. I suspect those outlets were in the daisy chain. The GFCI outlet that I could locate is in the bathroom, but I am 100% sure the previously affected outlet was not on that circuit. I believe, as well as a couple of others, that there is another GFCI outlet in that coach as it has 50amp service.

Is anyone here familiar with a 2002 Georgetown 326 model? If so, could you please help us in locating the other GFCI(if in fact there is another one)?
The purpose of a GFI is to trip quickly if it senses a quick short to ground.
They are used close to sinks or water and are also attached to outside outlets.

Any outlet on beyond the GFI is protected by the GFI.

All other outlet wiring should come from the electrical panel and controlled by a circuit breaker.

You can check the outside compartments to see if you can find a GFO outlet in there.

This is the best information I can give you without seeing your motorhome.
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Old 11-03-2014, 04:17 PM   #11
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Thanks Iggy, There is one GFI outlet in the bathroom, but that circuit was not affected at all...is it possible to have 2 GFIs in a 50 amp service RV? Called Forest River customer service, left a message and havent yet got a call back...thanks!!
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Old 11-03-2014, 04:35 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Wanda50 View Post
Thanks Iggy, There is one GFI outlet in the bathroom, but that circuit was not affected at all...is it possible to have 2 GFIs in a 50 amp service RV? Called Forest River customer service, left a message and havent yet got a call back...thanks!!
Check your outside compartments. I have a GFCI in my storage. Also, check the kitchen outlets. Failing to fix by resetting GFCI's, get a pro to look at it.

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Old 11-04-2014, 02:13 PM   #13
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UPDATE:::: Problem completely solved!!! The offending outlet (with heaters in it) and the crackling outlet in bedroom are replaced and everything is completely back to normal. Used the screw type outlet.

I want to thank everyone who advised and provided info....you greatly helped!!!

I only wonder, though, why the breaker did not trip? Seems that would have been the first thing to go...LOL Anyway, we learned a big lesson here (what we can safely put into each outlet) and thankfully at a cost of under $15 ;D Amazing!!!
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:31 PM   #14
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UPDATE:::: Problem completely solved!!! The offending outlet (with heaters in it) and the crackling outlet in bedroom are replaced and everything is completely back to normal. Used the screw type outlet.

I want to thank everyone who advised and provided info....you greatly helped!!!

I only wonder, though, why the breaker did not trip? Seems that would have been the first thing to go...LOL Anyway, we learned a big lesson here (what we can safely put into each outlet) and thankfully at a cost of under $15 ;D Amazing!!!

The cracking sound was the arching of a loose connection.
Circuit breakers trip when you have an overload of amp that exceed the circuit breaker. It will also trip if the hot wire at the outlet touched the ground or neutral wire.

Glad this one is solved.
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:45 PM   #15
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Concerning outlets - GFCI's are usually near any water or in the outside compartments - I have one in the outside water convenience center, who know why, seems like a dumb place to have an outlet - and the connections on every outlet should be checked for tightness, probably once a year or so. Afterall, hauling these things around at 60 or MPH is like a constant Richter Scale 4.7 for each trip. Of course that goes for any mechanical connection be it electrical, water, or physical.
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Old 11-04-2014, 04:17 PM   #16
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Concerning outlets - GFCI's are usually near any water or in the outside compartments - I have one in the outside water convenience center, who know why, seems like a dumb place to have an outlet - and the connections on every outlet should be checked for tightness, probably once a year or so. Afterall, hauling these things around at 60 or MPH is like a constant Richter Scale 4.7 for each trip. Of course that goes for any mechanical connection be it electrical, water, or physical.
GROUND FAULT CURRENT INTERRUPTER
Basically water and electricity mixed will easily kill a person.
I won't go into electrical theory but take my word for it.
The GFCI outlet will quickly sense a resistive electrical current path to ground and shut down much quicker than a circuit breaker. A hair large hair dryer will trip it sometimes because the heating elements slowly heat up which makes the GFCI that someone or thing is making a direct short to ground. This is a variable resistive load.

You will always find GFCI outlet attached to outside outlets and any where water is located. This is to save a person from electric shock when you make contact to water which is also a source to ground which in turn makes a electrical direct short.
This is only if a body/ human makes contact to a energized conductor meaning the black or red wire in the outlet.
It can also happen if you touch a damaged metal toaster case, etc.
Hope this give you some basic idea what they are used to prevent.


Here is a great link that better describes it than I. Oh it has pictures also.
http://ecmweb.com/content/how-gfcis-work
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