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Old 08-17-2017, 10:41 AM   #1
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GREAT Articles on selecting a Motorhome

This post is intended to be helpful to the first time buyer of a motor home. For those of you who don't fall into that category or believe this post is incomplete or off the mark, do us all a favor, and enlighten us. If all you have to offer is criticism with no corresponding constructive comments, no one besides yourself will benefit from the experience. So please improve or expand on this post in a constructive way.

The issue at hand is how to select the coach that best matches your wants and needs and offers the most promise of not being a perpetual headache.

I think there is an order to thinking through selecting a motor home that best maps to your wants, needs, and pocketbook. There are a lot of issues to get at and understand. Going about the process out of sequence will circumvent some critical steps and increases the potential that in the end you will not be as satisfied with what you buy as you could have been. I've heard it said that nothing can be seen until seen in a form that you're looking for. You give yourself the edge by determining your wants and needs first, letting them guide you to the make and model of motor home. Focus on deal making after your prioritized wants and needs have lead you to the type, make and model, and level of fit and finish that best fit your pocketbook.

BUDGET
I believe the first step for most will be to establish a framework relative to cost: decide how much you want to spend, how much you can spend, and how much you are willing to spend. For the most part you can count on spending more that you initially thought. Knowing what the max you can spend is a place to start.

While the initial cost is a lot more than the tip of the iceberg, the cost of ownership and operation bear some thought as well. Gain some insight into annual insurance cost, maintenance, and storage fees. Start making a list of items that will be purchased to support the RV. Don't forget the dingy and associated costs if you're planning on dragging one around, tow bar, braking system, car insurance and registration. Think about chemicals, hoses, adaptors, critical spares, tools, as well as outdoor furniture, grill, mats, and kitchen gadgets, cleaning supplies, hooks, and toilet paper holder! Then add on the operating costs: fuel, camping fees, charges for radio, television, and telephone, etc.

I personally think it's a mistake to go into the process thinking you can always trade in or up. It's a costly strategy. Try to get it right the first time. For many, the choice will boil down to compromising what they want to fit with what they can afford. All the more reason to spend the time and energy to figure out what you want and need and then prioritize your selections to get what you can afford.

Once you have established a framework for purchase budget and ownership cost, use that frame work to construct the best coach that will fit into it. At this point in time you may have a gross idea of size diesel pusher or gas... new versus used. You may even have a specific manufacturer you're interested in. These choices, especially the make and model, ought to flow from your wants and needs.

WANTS AND NEEDS
Go to work figuring out what you want in terms of livability and travel-ability. A good place to start is deciding if you're going to be a parker or a driver. Most motor homes are better suited to one or the other. Coaches with lots of slides are terrific when parked, but coaches with fewer slides may seem roomier when driving down the road with the slides in. Things to think about if you're a driver include how much room there is to move around with the sliders closed, and access to such things as storage areas and facilities like the washer/dryer.

The next and crucial step is to figure out what you think you want for power train, chassis, floor plan, features, amenities, and gadgets. Look at a lot of coaches, even trailers, and see what combinations seem to fit your lifestyle the best. As you get immersed in the process, I think you will find some of your original thoughts will change. The following checklist will give you some things to consider. Keep in mind that the right coach is out there; it just takes hard work to find it.

Will you spend more waking hours driving or parked?
What features need to be accessible while driving?
How many people do you need to sleep?
Is a queen-sized bed appropriate?
How long will you be using the coach at a stretch?
(weekends versus long trips)
How much storage will you require?
How fussy are you about the quality of workmanship in furnishings?
How much counter space do you want in the kitchen?
How often will you use an oven or washer/dryer?
Will a dinette or table and chairs suit you best?
How much privacy do you want for the bathroom?
Does anyone require upgraded seats or bed?
Will you tolerate losing speed on hills?
Are you concerned about miles per gallon or emissions controls?
How far do you want to be able to travel between fuel stops?
How much capacity do you want for water, black, and grey tanks?
Do you require pass-through storage for long items?
Do you want basement doors that open in a specific direction?
(to the side or up like a bus)
How important is soundproofing or insulation?
How important is entertainment, inside or outside?
How many televisions, and where?
Speakers or refrigerator in basement to use when camped?
Can you find the features you want in a used coach?



RESEARCH
Buying a motor home is easy... the hard part is selecting the one that will best fit your needs. Do a lot of looking and as much research as you can. Take notes about what you like and dislike in each coach you see. Do not accept that what you want is not available. After our first month of looking, we had a floor plan we liked but everything else was wrong. We almost bought that floor plan because we were beginning to think what we wanted was not available or economically attainable. Any fool can buy a motor home; the trick is not to be foolhardy about the process of selecting the one. Some people are smarter than we are; it took us months of intensive research, giving up every week end visiting dealers, hours of reading magazines, exploring all the internet sales sites, and forum surfing. In the end, we looked at 26 different models from 12 different manufacturers, and test drove most of them. We also visited a multitude of factories and found people to discuss ideas and assumptions. One thing to keep in mind, make sure that you adopt your own ideas and make your own priorities for features and functions. Others will have valuable insights, but those insights and perspectives will reflect their own priorities. As you listen, try to understand not only what they think is important, but also why. Get as many variant opinions as you can in arriving at your own conclusions. What's perfect for one can be a horrible mismatch for another.

There is no substitute for spending time in a prospective coach, visualizing daily routines in terms of workability and comfort and convenience... sit in every seating position, open and close everything that will do so, adjust anything that has an adjustment, especially the driver's and passenger's seats. Lie down on the bed, open up any convertible couches and test them for comfort. Walk through meal preparation and maneuvering around in the coach with a full complement of people and pets, both with sliders in and out. Go through the exercise both indoors and outdoors. Open the sliders and the awnings at the same time to check angles and clearances. Think through loading and unloading: is there enough space and is it easily accessible? See how cords and hoses roll in and out.

Do not expect that what you will get is any better than what you see in the showroom. So many times I got that response to an inquiry about a noticeable defect in terms of fit, finish, or operation. As you are deciding on the coach and examining the details of fit and finish, do not limit you looking to the interior. Look hard in all the equipment bays and in the engine compartment. A lot of unnecessary breakdowns are set up when the coach is mated to the chassis, look for hoses and wiring too close to heat source or that will rub, abrade, or get pinched, look for lapses in sealing seams. In other words, fit and finish has two flavors: cosmetic and functional. If what you can see looks slipshod, then what you can not see is not going to be any better.


SELECTING THE DEALER
It seems that a lot of dissatisfaction that people experience lies at the doorstep of the dealer they choose. In other cases, I think some buyers have unrealistic expectations about how the dealer will react to their concerns and problems. Thorough vetting out of the dealer is of utmost importance. Talk to as many people as you can who have done business with the dealer. Also have some very frank discussions with your perspective dealer, starting with the salesperson, and then a review of your expectations with the salesperson and the sales manager together. Be specific, give examples, and require specific responses. Do not accept "You're in good hands All-State" responses.

TAKING DELIVERY
When you go to pick up your coach from the dealer have a thorough checklist of items to check. Do the inspection systematically. There are several lists already created that you can use as a starter. Here are a few thoughts.

„« Do not schedule your pick up of your new motor home on a Friday or a day before a holiday. That way the pressure to get it done will be lessened and there will be time for corrections to be made. Have extra time built into your schedule. Have a place to stay so there is no need to rush the inspection if you're picking up your coach remotely from where you live.

„« Make sure that all the documentation and manuals are present. Do an inventory and do not forget to get a list of all the serial and model numbers for all the warrantee registration. It's the job of the dealer to provide that.

„« Operate and test everything. Make sure you can do it yourself... and then do it, and have your companion do it. We got the in motion satellite and the home entertainment system; I am still the only one who can operate them...

„« Take notes of what you see that bothers you or questions that come to mind. If you don't get satisfactory answers to your question, just ask them again and again until you're satisfied. You have paid a lot of money for those answers.

„« Question anything you do not understand. Make sure you and spouse do not leave with any unanswered question... Nothing worse than to discover something and then hear the words, "I was wondering about that."


„« Do not assume anything has been checked or is working properly. Check them yourself, especially fluids and tire pressures... which means bring a suitable tire gauge. It would also be useful to have one of those indoor/ outdoor thermometers with a remote sensor to check air conditioner and heat performance, including the dash air.

„« If at all possible, go through the manuals and documentation before you do your acceptance inspection. Just take a couple of hours off in a corner; you will be amazed at the questions that will pop up. It's better to do that before you do your walk through.

„« Use one of the many cookbook PDA lists that are around. The best one I found was at RV Pre-Delivery Inspections, and Factory Pickup There is also a special section on air brakes on the rversonline site.

„« Do a test drive that will approximate how you will drive your motor home.

„« Go into the process expecting to have glitches and some your expectations not to be met. Focus on resolutions instead of recriminations. Don't let someone else's ignorance spoil what should be a very special day!!

PERSONAL EXPERIENCE
From my own experience and what insights I have gained from private discussions with a number of first time buyers, the really tough issue is nailing down your wants, needs, and priorities and then overlaying the price one will have to pay. In our case we spent more than we originally set out to spend, but less than I could have. Deciding which manufacturer was not the starting point, it was the place to end...

Here are some of our answers to the questions I posed above:

Will you be a driver or a parker... In our case we are drivers. We tend to drive a lot and never stay in one place for very long while others will pick a destination, go there and plant themselves for a period of time, then return home. We wanted the maximum of space in the coach when the sliders were closed which was a governing factor in determining floor plan and the number of sliders. We also wanted certain key storage areas accessible and wanted access to the washer/dryer with the sliders closed. We wanted to maximize the kitchen counter space and be able to use the seating area and table while underway or for those times we stop in route. So we opted for a dinette which has the advantage being able to convert into a sleeping position (albeit for a short person). We also preferred not to deal with the chairs while underway which have a tendency to want to move around if not securely strapped down.

In terms of the bathroom, we wanted the toilet area separate from the shower and sink. We wanted to be able to separate the bathroom from the bedroom and the living area for those times when there would be others on board besides my wife and me.

We also chose to eliminate the up-front TV for increased visibility and to avoid a source for bumping heads. We wanted it placed elsewhere in the coach and at eye level so we wouldn't crane our necks up to watch.

We needed a floor plan that would comfortably sleep 5.

How far do you want to be able to travel between fuel stops... how much capacity do you want for water, black, and grey tanks... These are good issues to raise on forums; you will get a wide variety of answers. We arbitrarily decided we wanted a 1000 miles for fuel, and 3 to 5 days capacity for water and holding tanks.

It helps to be reasonable and recognize that it's better to start with the minimum you are willing to settle for and then the maximum you're willing to pay for. Be conservative in your estimates.

We wanted to have pass-through storage in the basement as well as sliding drawers, which eliminated some coaches including one that had our favorite floor plan in it. While you're thinking about storage, keep in mind there are different options for the type of doors used on basement storage. Aside from the conventional, there are bus style doors that cantilever up and out of the way, as well as side opening doors. Our coach has all three types.

We put a premium on insulation and the soundproofing of the coach when parked, so we paid attention to the specs and tested the noise level in the coach in terms of isolating the inside from the outside. We were focused on not being disturbed and not disturbing our neighbors. We wanted the coach to be as quiet as possible on the road as well as when parked.

We opted not to buy used, although there are many compelling reason to do so: initial cost and the potential that new coach bugs would be worked out. Part of our criteria was to bypass anything that had not had continual use, since disuse often accelerates the deterioration of such things as seals, hoses, belts and the like. In the end, we concluded we were unlikely to find a match for our wants and needs in a used coach and focused on going the new coach route. Once we decided we wanted a new coach, we soon discovered that it was going to require us to order one to get exactly what we wanted and would fit into our budget.

So we began to reduce the number of potential manufacturers from 12 down to 3 since the others did not offer what we wanted or their level of fit and finish wasn't acceptable to me. Having said that, I believe that with minor exceptions many of the manufacturers we deselected would have worked for us, had their offerings been a match to our wants and needs.

We placed a priority on which manufacturers would give us the most flexibility to make minor alterations to their standard fare; that got the list down to 2. In the end, we chose the one that gave us the most flexibility. Their reputation for warrantee support was also a determining factor, but any of the final three would have given terrific support based on their reputation.

In our case, we did not place a high premium on after sale dealer support. This is not a course I would recommend for every one but our situation was such that we were comfortable in taking on the responsibility of managing our service needs. It did take some work to establish a network of support once we bought. We have been fortunate to have had only one coach related issue, which was very minor. Other problems we have had were with the generator and our satellite system, where we dealt directly with the manufacturers with satisfactory results. We found both the coach manufacturer and the manufacturers of the specific components were very helpful in answering any questions that popped up.

When our coach was being built, I visited the factory to follow progress on the construction, timing the visit so I would be able to inspect what I was expecting in terms of wiring, plumbing, and interior construction. I was able to see our coach and other coaches down the line so I inspected each step of the build process.

This post will raise more questions than it answers which in part was the intent, and the offer up a process to get the answers...
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:43 AM   #2
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Gas or Diesel?

I realize that this is a long thread but if you are pondering the Gasoline versus a Diesel based on power consideration or are wondering about adding an after market performance enhancing kit to a Gasoline engine to close the power equation it might be worth a read. This thread is intended to be an addendum to the First Time Buyer...

The question of a Gasoline versus Diesel is a topic that seems to have no correct answer. But one that comes up frequently Here is some food for thought, after you have done some looking post questions about specifics and you will get plenty of feedback.

Diesel can have more torque and HP but that does not always translate to better performance and higher MPG. There are some configurations of Gasoline powered Motorhomes that will out perform some Diesel coaches due to weight to power ratio, gearing, rear axle ratio. There are some diesel powered configuration where power is not an issue with any grade or load.

In terms of reliability Diesel engines are constructed to have a longer life span but for most folks and I mean most, the reliability and longevity is sort of a non issue due to the amount of mileage and the length of ownership. Diesel's will be somewhat more costly to maintain.

The longer and heavier a coach is the more need there is for power. There is also the issue of carrying capability. So you will want to focus in on what size motorhome then look at the weight carrying abilities of your choices.

The modern Gasoline power trains and chassis have evolved tremendously in the past several years and the expectation that they will continue. If there is a Gasoline powered motorhome that meets your fancy it is worth a long hard look.

There are some benefits to going diesel powered other than fuel mileage ( which is not usually anything to write home about) A DP pusher will generally be quieter in the cockpit area when underway and will have the benefit of air suspension and Brakes.

Another minor benefit of a DP is that in many cases A DP will have a much longer range between fuel stops due to the size of the fuel tanks.

If you are looking at a length of the 35 or less then I would be looking at A Gasoline and over that you are in sort of a mixed bag up to about 38 feet then you really want to be leaning in the direction of a Diesel simply because of the torque to handle the weight.

You will need to sort out what you are looking for in terms of length and CCC plus the price range you are wanting to be at. A diesel will be a significant increase in price. Drive both and then figure out if the added cost is worth it to you.

So what does this all mean?

Some gasoline powered coaches will be challenged going up some steep or long grades but then so will some diesel powered coaches. The real question is so what? How much time will one spend going up steep grades?

There are aftermarket kits that can enhance performance such as the Banks System or the gear Vendors add on to the none Allison transmissions that adds extra gears. The Banks after market performance enhancements are available for both Gasoline and Diesel powered units. I have installed both in the past and still have a F350 4x4 that has both the Banks system and the Gear Vendors. The addition of a Banks or a competitive alternative will yield additional available power both in terms of Horsepower and Torque. The question of whether the additional cost of these systems will yield enough performance enhancement of warrant the cost.

In looking at the performance curves relative to the 8.1 on the Banks web site it should be noted that for an 8.1 the optimum gain is at a fairly high RPM which should be taken into account relative to cockpit noise. Using the most optimistic gain estimates you could be looking of 16 to 23% depending on rpm's in terms of torque. The RPM range will be between 3800 and 4800. The most material gain will be on acceleration especially on on ramps and passing.

In terms of pulling power up grades there will be improvement there as well. But lets compare getting 25,000 pounds up a grade with a banks enhanced gasoline 8.1 with getting 30,000 pounds up the grade with a Cat 330 powered diesel. Looking at the chart below the 8.1 with the Banks system will have to move 45 pounds for every foot pound of torque versus the Cat which will have to move 35 pounds for every foot pound even at the heavier weight. You can also see on the chart below that at the same weight the diesel will have even a greater advantage. However that is not the end of the story.

The W24 chassis comes with a 5.86 rear ratio which is nominally in the range of 20% higher than the typical rear ratio of a cat 330 equipped chassis so the 29 percent more weight per foot pound of torque available with the cat 330 is down to about a 9 percent difference in power to move the weight provided the gasoline unit is 5,000 pounds lighter. If the same weight then the cat will have about a 25% advantage in the ratio of weight to torque to move it even with the performance enhancement on the Gasoline engine. How much difference will this make to you? The only way to answer is to drive the same course with the two different power trains and see for your self.

Keep in mind that you will more than likely be testing a stock Gasoline engine and that adding a Banks or similar performance enhancing package will yield somewhere in the neighborhood of a 20 % improvement. What this means is that the performance enhancement kit will offset the weight that you are going down the road with towing a dinghy and with all your stuff on board. So if the performance suits you and you like the rest of the coach the Gasoline powered motorhome ought to be on your short list since it is possible to add the performance enhancement kit. The added expense of a performance enhancement kit will be far less that going the diesel route. The diesel as tested will be just about as good as it will be so keep in mind that the added wieght of towing a dinghy and carrying all your stuff may impact the performance you experienced during the test drive without the additional weight.




Torque.........455.. 560... ..660.....860.. 1050.. 1200

Weight
20,000......... 44... 36........30........23......19......17
25,000......... 55... 45........38........29......24......21
30,000......... 66... 54........45........35......29......25
35,000......... 77... 63........53........41......33......29
40,000......... 88... 71........61........47......38......33
Pounds to move per increment of torque

455 = Stock 8.1 Torque
560 = Banks equipped 8.1 Torque
660 = Cummins ISB 300 Torque
860 = Cat 330 Torque
1050 = Cummins ISC 350 Torque
1200 = Cummins ISL400 Torque

So the answer is yes these after market systems will help off set the power differential between a Gasoline Powered versus a Diesel Powered unit.The difference in actual performance getting that weight up the grade while not be as much as the chart would indicate since the Gasoline powered coach will have a higher rear end ratio and the higher revving gasoline engine to be able to take the advantage of the higher rear gearing.

One other issue to take into account with a normally aspirated engine (non turbo) is that the air density will have an impact on the power generated by the engine. "On a hot day, or at high altitude, or on a moist day, the air is less dense. A reduction in air density reduces the engine horsepower." So on those hot muggy days a non turbo engine will have less power than on a cool dry day. Adding altitude to the equation will also rob power on non turbo assisted engines. Virtually all modern diesels in today's motorhome will have a turbo as standard equipment. The power loss in most situations is not really significant. The loss is in the order of 1 % per thousand feet up to three thousand feet then about 3 % per thousand feet there after.

There is one advantage to a diesel worth considering and that is the auxiliary braking that is available via either an exhaust brake or an engine brake. To my way of thinking the availability of auxiliary braking is a far more important advantage than any extra power. Having said that, the perspective I have is that at times it is convenient and others it is a margin of safety that I really appreciate. The thing to keep in focus that it is possible to adjust ones driving pattern to proceed in a safe manner without the need or desire of an auxiliary brake.

A diesel powered coach with a power to weight ratio that is superior to a gasoline powered unit will be able to pull grades at a faster rate and descend down grades more aggressively if equipped with an auxiliary brake. An engine brake being superior to an exhaust brake. But again the question is so what? Just what percentage of the on the road time will be spent going up and down grades where this is really a material issue?

There are Gasoline coaches that will out perform some diesel coaches in terms of pulling grades. As I mentioned the longer and heavier a coach gets the more that the need of a diesel comes into play. In this case the word need is a euphemism for desirable. Feeding that desire does have a price tag. The issue is determining the need based on the size coach and then working through the coast versus the benefit.

The only way to know is to figure out what you want in terms of size and floor plan which will include the added weight of sliders. If you are a driver instead of a parker and you want a large coach then a diesel may be the better choice if you are a parker then it may make more sense to go with a Gasoline powered unit in terms of price.

Our needs were such that a 40 footer was our choice which got us into a Diesel. For our traveling partner a 32 footer Gasoline unit is the perfect size he is as happy with his choice as we are with ours. We have traveled together extensively in mountainous country in all but the steepest of grades he is able to maintain the same speed with his vortec 8.1 as we are with our ISL 400. While I think he would like to have a larger fuel tank and would benefit from an auxiliary brake he is as happy with his coach as were are with ours. Our ride may be a little smother due to the air ride and the cockpit noise level lower when climbing grades but to him those issues are not enough to justify the price differential of his coach versus ours.

With the innovations in chassis design of gasoline powered coaches and the addition of 5 and 6 speed transmissions given the price differential of going the diesel route I would look long and hard at the gasoline powered coaches. The only way to know is to pick your size and floor plan then do a test drive.

One thing that you will find is for the most part all of us like what we have but there is always something "better". I would discount those who disparage one type versus the other... Or makes extravagant claims not supported by any logic of the physics involved in moving weight. But I would pay attention to those that take the time to go beyond this is bad and that is good.

I also think that we at times get lost in generalities so I would suggest that you get in the ball park with generalities but focus on specifics when you are in decision mode.

In general a diesel pusher will be quieter in the cockpit area, will offer a smooth ride due to air suspension. Some diesel pushers will offer pass through storage. Most diesel pushers will have some form of auxiliary braking either in terms of an exhaust or and engine brake.

In general At some price point the interior fit and finish of a Diesel Pusher will be a step up... But for the upper end of the Gasoline powered units and the entry level diesel and up to some point along the DP price curve I do not believe there is much if any difference.

In General the more expensive DP's will offer additional amenities beyond what is available on Gasoline powered motorhomes.

In General Diesel pushers will have a longer range due to larger fuel tanks
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:59 AM   #3
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When looking at budget don't forget the license plate. We had everything else in the budget but forgot this one and boy was it harsh. Our tag for the rv is more than the property taxes on our house.
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Old 08-17-2017, 11:46 AM   #4
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When looking at budget don't forget the license plate. We had everything else in the budget but forgot this one and boy was it harsh. Our tag for the rv is more than the property taxes on our house.


Taxes, huge, ouch
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Old 08-17-2017, 05:18 PM   #5
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Iggy great article. Really enjoyed it. Wish I had read it before we bought our first.
We have liked all of our different coaches. We drive more than we park.
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Old 08-17-2017, 05:36 PM   #6
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Taxes, huge, ouch
Yes also depends on the state you live registration each year is another big hit.

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Old 08-17-2017, 05:37 PM   #7
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Iggy great article. Really enjoyed it. Wish I had read it before we bought our first.
We have liked all of our different coaches. We drive more than we park.
Same here. I have over 55,000 miles on my 2012 378TS but have seen lots of great places in the US, Canada and Mexico.
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Old 08-17-2017, 07:37 PM   #8
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Great Article on Selecting a Motorhome


Thank you so much for taking the time to put together this very informative article. Well put together and you pretty much cover everything. Great job.
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Old 08-17-2017, 08:22 PM   #9
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We just went back to class A. Put 15000 on our class C in 2016. Wife said if we are going to continue that we need to go to class A. First FR product. Pleased so far.
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Old 08-18-2017, 01:14 PM   #10
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Great article Iggy, well said.
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Old 08-18-2017, 02:10 PM   #11
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Great article.

One addendum to the Gas/Diesel you forgot.

Gas motors usually have the generator in the back (near the bed), Diesel pushers have them up front. I know the 6500 Onan on our old Winnibago would hammer away, about a foot (as the sound wave flies) away from my head. Every time the air would kick in it would go

rrrrrrrrrrrRRRRUUMMMMMMHHHHHHHRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrr. And drop an octive while the A/C unit got spun up. It would wake me up out of whatever passed for sleep in that thing. I never, not once, had a good nights sleep on the generator in that thing. If you plan on using the generator very much, that will be a big consideration

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Old 08-18-2017, 02:41 PM   #12
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Great article Iggy, well said.
Thanks. If we all knew this prior to buying our first rig I'm sure it would have saved me a lot of time.
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:09 PM   #13
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Great article. Wish I had this when we bought.
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:13 PM   #14
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"Gas motors usually have the generator in the back (near the bed)"

Cowracer i respectively disagree with that statement. Most gas Forest River motorhomes ( C and A) I have looked at have the generator located in the first compartment behind the drivers seat.

Iggy great article!!
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Safety View Post
"Gas motors usually have the generator in the back (near the bed)"



Cowracer i respectively disagree with that statement. Most gas Forest River motorhomes ( C and A) I have looked at have the generator located in the first compartment behind the drivers seat.



Iggy great article!!


I have a 2011 378TS and it is located by the bedroom. Very loud.
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:02 PM   #16
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My 2013 351 DS has the genny in first compartment behind the driver.
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Old 08-19-2017, 01:23 PM   #17
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location of generator is a minor issue for most unless you dry camp a lot and run the generator.

I have only 110 hours on mine since I bought it in 2012 and in most places you camp will not allow you to run generator during night time quiet hours.

Now if you are in the middle of the dessert in BLM land I'm sure its not an issue but it seems funny that If I spend $100,000 more for a diesel pusher I won't have to worry about sleeping with the generator out front.
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