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Old 05-11-2020, 08:14 PM   #1
Btm
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GT5 slide rack anti noise ( pics )

This is what I use to stop the rack from popping against the slide wall. Just a cut up pool noodle. This bottom rack bows in and only makes noise when driving and on rough roads.

Hopefully some of the other posters whose MH are at dealers for this rack noise will post something the dealer did for a fix.

Btm
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Old 05-11-2020, 10:16 PM   #2
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This whole problem is just odd to me. It sounds like the slide is actually shifting slightly fore-aft or in and out and changing the tension on the rack while driving.

Does it look like your wall seals are about 50% compressed when retracted? When the slide is fully in, how much "give" is there on the rack? Ours are very taught.

We do not have this problem and while I've read a lot here and on other forums, I do not recall anyone ever mentioning an issue like this other than here.

Ray
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:20 PM   #3
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I believe you are correct on what is happening. My wife tells me she can see the shifting.

My exterior seals are barely compressed. They don't leak but are out of adjustments. When the slide is retracted the rack has tension and is bowed toward the slide. Rough roads ( bouncing ) causing tension changes and noise.

When looking from the outside I believe my slide is out of adjustment The rear top and bottom have the seal compressed. At the front ( behind the driver ) the top has the seal compressed, but the bottom has a much larger gap.It looks like one tooth inward of the rack would fix the problem.

After looking at your reference post on slides I am going to try to make a reset using the switch ( in /out )retract all in and stop start method that was demonstrated. I don't have switches, only the One Touch + or- .

I am 500 miles from my dealer and now out of warranty, but I have found a good RV repair company not far from me.

Nicholas at FR paid for my spring shimming on the leaning , low side a few month ago maybe I can get the adjustment paid for. If not I will do it anyway.

Thanks for your reference post, maybe it will be my answer.

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Old 05-12-2020, 10:56 AM   #4
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If the stop reset procedure does not help I'd take close measurements of all four corners from the outside of the slide to the wall so you can show how much each corner is different from each other.

Actually, I'd like to see those measurements before and after. A picture of the tape measure on each corner, after you're certain you're level, would be indisputable. Measure it to the wall, not those plastic corner pieces, and maybe at the same place where the rack is.

Ray
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Old 05-12-2020, 06:54 PM   #5
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I will measure with pictures, but may be two days or more. Raining today and tomorrow.

Also my Catalytic converter ANTI-THEFT cage is to be ready on Friday. Thieves are at it again. The MH behind me and one that is two bays over had their converters stolen again (YES TWICE). Once in Jan and again last Sat. Mine was not stolen this time.

I am keeping my MH in my driveway against H. O A. rules until it is protected.

I am sick of so many people and places using the Covid-19 excuses --like we are unable to answer the phone because of unusual amount of calls etc. I called the Detective today about the thieves that were caught in late Jan with cut off converters and converters being stolen now. He said he was sorry,but the Bell County D.A. said he did not have time to prosecute with the covid-19 and things going on. So thieves are out on the street stealing their 2nd round.

Btm

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Old 08-04-2020, 07:59 PM   #6
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So I crabbed that one of my racks had started slapping when we had our factory visit. When we got it back I was surprised to see that the slides all had an extra pin on them, the pin that holds the rack to the block. I'm positive there only was one pin on each end before and now there are two. Below is how they signed the defect off.

The original pin has a clip at the bottom but the added pins do not. They kind of bind against the existing clip. I had one work loose already so I'm going to put a dab of sealant on the top of them to keep them down.

FWIW,

Ray
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Old 08-04-2020, 11:31 PM   #7
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[QUOTE=NXR;2322688]This whole problem is just odd to me. It sounds like the slide is actually shifting slightly fore-aft or in and out and changing the tension on the rack while driving.

Does it look like your wall seals are about 50% compressed when retracted? When the slide is fully in, how much "give" is there on the rack? Ours are very taught.

Ray[/QUOTE

The noise happens when the M H is on rough roads causing a porpoise or side to side rolls. The noise does not happen often, but when it does it is so loud you think something is broken. You are correct about what is happening.

Seals are about 50% compressed

The bottom racks are bowed in and have a lot of pressure on them when the slide is retracted. If you touch the extend button the rack straightens, but will still make noise when driving if the slide shifts.

The R V service I use was well aware of the problem and said to use the noodle. I guess my idea is not original. Their reason was that my slide is working O K.

They offered to work on it but said that large slides are hard to adjust and most time they do not get any improvement and cannot stop the noise.

For now I will live with the bad design and use the pool noodles.


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Old 08-05-2020, 09:11 AM   #8
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This is what they did to mine. I cannot remember if that little block I marked in red was there before, though. It looks like a block of hard foam. This rack used to be solidly against the slide but isn't anymore. The rack was not solidly against the slide until the last month before the factory trip.

If someone does have that little block and others do not, maybe it falls out and that causes the bending/slapping problem and the second pin helps hold it in place. I dunno...

Ray
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Old 08-05-2020, 11:30 AM   #9
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Thanks for the pics. I found the foam block in one of the videos. It is to stop any noise from vibration.

I called Lippert about the rack hitting the slide. They are aware of the hitting and noise, also the use of a pool noodle over the rack. After the call ,my conclusion is:

1. This system is not really designed for LARGE heavy slides. Smaller slides do not put so much pressure to cause flexing and noise when on rough roads.

2. This design is better than the old that was attached solid to the slide wall. The old design was easily damaged when on rough roads or drive way entries that caused slide movement and pressure changes.

3. Most M H do not have the noise problem. It just depends on the slide location and frame distortion. Some of us are the unlucky ones.

I think I will use the noodle until some one comes up with a fix or better idea


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Old 08-05-2020, 04:12 PM   #10
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Was that a recent call? I'm wondering what their thoughts are on that extra pin if it was.

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Old 08-05-2020, 11:18 PM   #11
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I talked with customer service today. (8-5-20) I did not specifically ask about a 2nd pin being a fix nor did the service rep offer anything about any kind of fix, other than it happens on some M H.

I have looked at all the videos I could find about Slim Racks -assembly-maintenance-new design/old design-trouble shooting - etc and did not see any with 2 pins in the rack.

I think it is a Techs attempt for a fix. It probably can help some of the rack flexing, but not on all M H's.


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Old 08-06-2020, 09:06 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Btm View Post
I talked with customer service today. (8-5-20) I did not specifically ask about a 2nd pin being a fix nor did the service rep offer anything about any kind of fix, other than it happens on some M H.

I have looked at all the videos I could find about Slim Racks -assembly-maintenance-new design/old design-trouble shooting - etc and did not see any with 2 pins in the rack.

I think it is a Techs attempt for a fix. It probably can help some of the rack flexing, but not on all M H's.
Yeah, seemed weird to me because I didn't remember that as being anything other than a hole, possibly for a different rack assembly.

But those two racks on the large slide, front and rear sides, now are back where they were when new. Whether they stay there is the longer-term question.

Hey, I just had a thought. Please take a look at yours when you get a chance. Maybe there is a corner or an edge or something that pivots towards the slide side and that pin now blocks it from pivoting.

I did go through the OEM install manual I saw and found this note:

Note: During normal operation of this system, there is a possibility that the gear racks could come in contact with the slide box. At manufacturer's discretion, paint protection film may be used to prevent rubbing or scratches to any slide box surface. This protective film may also be added after paint is applied.

The OEM install manual never mentions those pins. There's only on or two pictures and they show just one pin.

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Old 08-06-2020, 03:41 PM   #13
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I just looked at mine and FR only added the extra pin on the outside part of each rack. The inside part still has one pin and that's actually a slot the pin travels in. So on the outside the rack can no longer float in or out.

That just feels like a bad thing and I think those pins are coming out. Soon.

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Old 08-06-2020, 09:07 PM   #14
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Maybe that will be enough to stop the rack from hitting the slide box.

I looked at Slim Rack parts again and all of the brackets have a slot. (old design or new)

I will check mine to see if it has a slot or hole.


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Old 08-06-2020, 09:43 PM   #15
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It definitely did stop the slapping and bowing but the thing is, it only started hitting after several months. I'm concerned that the extra pin will keep the rack from floating inwards and that could put a lot of stress on the rack or the pinion if there is any misalignment, or even normal alignment.

The pins are coming out tomorrow, at least temporarily. Heck, one almost popped out by itself already since there are no clips at the bottom.

After the factory work we noticed our bed slide goes out fine but when it's almost all the way in we hear both motors bog down for an instant but the slide keeps moving smoothly. I'm wondering if removing those extra pins will stop that from happening.

We've had a problem since Day One where the bed slide lifts off the rear-most roller about 1/16" when its within about 15" of fully closed. That in fact is the primary reason it went back to the factory. And when we got it back it still lifted off so FR is digging into why it wasn't fixed or why the fix was not permanent. I see no difference at all before or after.

Attached is what they said they did, but how do you lower a plywood platform? I dunno. It looks like a solid wood box to me.

Ray
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Old 08-06-2020, 10:49 PM   #16
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[QUOTE=NXR;2385660]It definitely did stop the slapping and bowing but the thing is, it only started hitting after several months. I'm concerned that the extra pin will keep the rack from floating inwards and that could put a lot of stress on the rack or the pinion if there is any misalignment, or even normal alignment.

The pins are coming out tomorrow, at least temporarily. Heck, one almost popped out by itself already since there are no clips at the bottom
________

I agree with what you are saying and taking out the pins, although the hitting may start again. You may have to use the split pool noodle. I have added a piece of wrap around velcro to the noodle because as the it flattens mine has come off the rack.

The rack was hitting the slide on my return trip from picking up the M H. This was because the road home was on I-10 West from Ponchatula La. past Houston until I turned North toward Temple. I have never and will never travel that part of I-10 again. When I go East I go up to I-20 to avoid I-10.
( an extra 80 miles ) I had a lot of small repairs because of how rough the road was.

Most of the time I do not have any hitting from the rack and I don't think the bed slide has ever hit. It's the bridge hits, dipping roads, twisting entries, etc. that cause the hitting.

Let us know how your slide works and if noise starts again after you take out the pins


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