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Old 08-23-2017, 05:35 PM   #1
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Hard Wire vs Pedestal Surge

For me the original thought/decision was to install a hard wired surge protector for many reasons, but an item I had never considered is that if the circuit board in the surge protector goes out, no 120vac power is available from any source (generator, shore power, or inverter!). The bypass function does not work/function in this situation. I am making jumping cables (using "alligator" clips on 6 or probably 10 awg wire) to manually bypass the relay temporarily until I receive the replacement parts.

So add this factor to your purchase decision!
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Old 08-23-2017, 06:20 PM   #2
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Some people install them with twist lock connectors on either end and carry a jumper cable in the case that the surge protector dies. Let's them bypass it in the cabinet.

I figure I'll just uninstall it or boondock for a couple of days until replacements arrive.
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Old 08-24-2017, 02:45 PM   #3
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This is what I installed in 2012 in my Georgetown motorhome.
Mine is a 50 amp but the have 30 amp versions also.
https://progressiveindustries.myshop...ems-lchw50-pid




Here is a link to ALL their Products.
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/our-products








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Old 08-24-2017, 03:20 PM   #4
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I guess the real question is why did you install the surge protector to filter both shore and generator I did shore only to prevent such problems as you have. The generator has built in urge protection .now that your surge protector has died just remove it and use splicers to put the cable back togeather available at any hardware store. Should take about 20 to 30 minutes.
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Old 08-24-2017, 03:20 PM   #5
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I initially purchased a pedestal Surge protector. When I am concerned about the surge protector, I plug it in in the power bay and use my 50Amp extension cord to connect to the pedestal, leaving the surge protector safely in the bay.
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:27 PM   #6
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Buy a pedestal mount. I installed a 50 amp surge protector in our first motorhome, but then, had to buy another one when we traded the motorhome in on a 40' fifth wheel.
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisbailey13 View Post
I initially purchased a pedestal Surge protector. When I am concerned about the surge protector, I plug it in in the power bay and use my 50Amp extension cord to connect to the pedestal, leaving the surge protector safely in the bay.
Good idea! I always worry about someone taking my surge protector. In some cases, I can lock the pedestal cover with a padlock but in others, I can't.

And then there was the campground where the receptacle was installed upside down and there wasn't enough space to plug in the surge protector

Bill
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Old 08-25-2017, 04:38 PM   #8
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Two things for you that should ease your mind. First, should the circuit board fail, there is a device inside the unit that allows you to bypass the controller and get power. Secondly, since I had the same concern, I installed mine so it could be removed from the power feed at any time. To do this, I went on Amazon and bought two 50A range cords and two 50A receptacles. You want to be sure you don't wind up with a hot male plug that could shock you, so you want to put a receptacle on the coach end of your shore power cable. Then put a range cord on the incoming power side of the EMS and a receptacle on the coach side of the EMS. Then put the second range cord on the incoming power side of the coach's transfer switch. Plug all these together and you have power. If you want the EMS removed, just plug the male end from the transfer switch into the receptacle on the coach end of the shore cable.
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Old 08-25-2017, 06:59 PM   #9
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You can buy a pedestal unit and two plug ends to match each end of the surge protector. Go to where you would install it behind the fuse box, cut the power cable and install the cord ends. You can then install the pedestal unit like a hard wired one. If you have troubles, all you need to do is unplug the unit and plug the line together without it.
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Old 08-25-2017, 07:38 PM   #10
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I installed the hard wired 30amp with the readout near the thermostat. I like the option of being able to disable the unit from the switch on the readout.

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Old 08-26-2017, 12:44 PM   #11
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The problem with the HW50C was in the control board (CB). Specifically I located a burn spot on the backside of the cb and when I turned it over it was visible on one of the leads to a larger resistor. The surface of the ceramic resistor did not appear to be normal. It was faded/corroded/cracking - a manufacturing defect? or the result of the failure. With the replacement cb installed, everything is functioning properly.
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