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Old 06-24-2018, 09:26 AM   #1
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Help on Installing Shower Faucet on GT 378

Does anyone out there with a 378 have any experience replacing the shower faucet. We were able to remove the old faucet and re attach the pex lines to the back of the faucet. However trying to tighten things through inspection hole beyond what I can do by hand seems impossible and I'm concerned it may not be enough to prevent leaking or allow the connection to back off with any road vibration .
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Old 06-24-2018, 05:54 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Nomore9-5 View Post
Does anyone out there with a 378 have any experience replacing the shower faucet. We were able to remove the old faucet and re attach the pex lines to the back of the faucet. However trying to tighten things through inspection hole beyond what I can do by hand seems impossible and I'm concerned it may not be enough to prevent leaking or allow the connection to back off with any road vibration .
Do you perhaps have pictures on how your reattaching the pex lines was done? I have some leak-s that need fixing too. I opened up the peep hole, but wasn't able to see what it looked like inside there. Sorry I couldn't help you more. Guess I'll get out an old mirror to see what I can see.
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Old 06-26-2018, 12:17 PM   #3
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I also have a 378TS model.
Here is a picture of what he was talking about.
So as you can see use must use the access hole to remove everything.
Their is no access to the rear of the shower wall where the water lines come up.
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Old 06-26-2018, 12:36 PM   #4
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I also have a 378TS model.
Here is a picture of what he was talking about.
So as you can see use must use the access hole to remove everything.
Their is no access to the rear of the shower wall where the water lines come up.
That's my shower or close to it. There has to be some way to reattach the water lines so they aren't leaking to the floor. I'm assuming the faucet fixture can be removed to enable easy access to the water lines. Problem is, the access hole doesn't allow seeing, much less, doing anything inside it very well if at all! I've removed the panel and couldn't see anything helpful.
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:33 PM   #5
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Wink Perfect timing

This is perfect timing....just finished mine.....the small 4 inch round inspection plate is below the shower faucet. It is virtually impossible to do the change from this. I was very frustrated trying to tighten the two pex lines from below and out of sight. I installed a 5 inch deck plate ABOVE the shower fixture. A little more work but I was able to see what I was doing and get a wrench in to tighten fittings. Should have done this first. The 4 inch plate below the fixture is useless and now retired.....Bob
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:50 PM   #6
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This is perfect timing....just finished mine.....the small 4 inch round inspection plate is below the shower faucet. It is virtually impossible to do the change from this. I was very frustrated trying to tighten the two pex lines from below and out of sight. I installed a 5 inch deck plate ABOVE the shower fixture. A little more work but I was able to see what I was doing and get a wrench in to tighten fittings. Should have done this first. The 4 inch plate below the fixture is useless and now retired.....Bob
A picture please
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Old 06-26-2018, 05:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by margesdiamond View Post
This is perfect timing....just finished mine.....the small 4 inch round inspection plate is below the shower faucet. It is virtually impossible to do the change from this. I was very frustrated trying to tighten the two pex lines from below and out of sight. I installed a 5 inch deck plate ABOVE the shower fixture. A little more work but I was able to see what I was doing and get a wrench in to tighten fittings. Should have done this first. The 4 inch plate below the fixture is useless and now retired.....Bob
Also do you have a 378TS model or another model?
You know not all Georgetown's are a like and this was specifically on a 378

and yes a picture of your shower would help.
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Old 06-26-2018, 05:44 PM   #8
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Also do you have a 378TS model or another model?
You know not all Georgetown's are a like and this was specifically on a 378

and yes a picture of your shower would help.
Mines a 300-- one long slide. The shower is exactly the same.
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Old 06-26-2018, 06:56 PM   #9
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The water connections are on 90 degree terminations and it seems they can be started from inside then the faucet pulled out to expose the fittings for tightening then pushed back in for mounting. I think the faucet connection holes would be large enough. Maybe not. I've been in that access hatch and I feel confident I could tighten the fittings from inside but the aforementioned may be easier; if it can be done.
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Old 06-26-2018, 10:18 PM   #10
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The water connections are on 90 degree terminations and it seems they can be started from inside then the faucet pulled out to expose the fittings for tightening then pushed back in for mounting. I think the faucet connection holes would be large enough. Maybe not. I've been in that access hatch and I feel confident I could tighten the fittings from inside but the aforementioned may be easier; if it can be done.
Bubbles I thought your idea would work until I was how that valve was mounted.
Take a look.
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Old 06-27-2018, 10:01 AM   #11
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Thanks to everyone for their views - just a bit of an update . We're going to local KOA for the weekend ( so I can have water supply to test connnection ) and I'm going to look at a couple of options. I bought a reasonably small strap wrench and I believe I can manouver the strap over the connection and try tightning things. As a back up, after removing the old faucet there was enough flexiblity to get the pex lines to come out of the inspection window . I think I can cut off old pex fitting and install a pex domestic water supply connection ( like in home) . I can then attach a flexible water supply line long enough to reach up and out of the hole for the faucet stem and then connect the faucet to it . I'll let you guys how things went know next week hopefully with pics
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Old 06-27-2018, 10:06 AM   #12
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Thanks to everyone for their views - just a bit of an update . We're going to local KOA for the weekend ( so I can have water supply to test connnection ) and I'm going to look at a couple of options. I bought a reasonably small strap wrench and I believe I can manouver the strap over the connection and try tightning things. As a back up, after removing the old faucet there was enough flexiblity to get the pex lines to come out of the inspection window . I think I can cut off old pex fitting and install a pex domestic water supply connection ( like in home) . I can then attach a flexible water supply line long enough to reach up and out of the hole for the faucet stem and then connect the faucet to it . I'll let you guys how things went know next week hopefully with pics
Sounds great!!! Looking forward to your experience. Especially the pics I'm assuming you're installing both hot and cold lines. Where'd you get the strap wrench from?
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Old 06-27-2018, 12:27 PM   #13
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Bubbles I thought your idea would work until I was how that valve was mounted.
Take a look.
You're right; bummer.
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Old 06-27-2018, 12:40 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Nomore9-5 View Post
Thanks to everyone for their views - just a bit of an update . We're going to local KOA for the weekend ( so I can have water supply to test connnection ) and I'm going to look at a couple of options. I bought a reasonably small strap wrench and I believe I can manouver the strap over the connection and try tightning things. As a back up, after removing the old faucet there was enough flexiblity to get the pex lines to come out of the inspection window . I think I can cut off old pex fitting and install a pex domestic water supply connection ( like in home) . I can then attach a flexible water supply line long enough to reach up and out of the hole for the faucet stem and then connect the faucet to it . I'll let you guys how things went know next week hopefully with pics
Check post #10. Doesn't your faucet still need to be installed to attach hoses?
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Old 06-27-2018, 01:11 PM   #15
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Check post #10. Doesn't your faucet still need to be installed to attach hoses?
Yup, I was thinking that too. Using a house type connection sounds like a good idea, but, can't do that while it's already connected to the shower stall. Then again, there's no perfect way to connect the faucet assy first.
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Old 06-27-2018, 02:19 PM   #16
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Schvarak I got my strap wrench from a Canadian hardware chain here called Princess Auto ( I'm one of those nasty Canadians Trump is complaining about). Not sure they're in the US but I saw ones like it on Amazon . Looked like they come in a 2 piece set. Mine has about a 6" handle with an 18" length of strap.
Insofar as the back up plan using pex, I figure I'm going to remove the faucet from the shower wall and pull the flexible supply lines up and out through the stem holes, make final connections and then push things back and reattach the faucet. ( that would mean having faucet locknuts already arround the supply lines so I could secure the faucet to the stall.
If it comes to this I'll be posting pics if someone can tell me how to attach them to post
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Old 06-27-2018, 03:15 PM   #17
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Schvarak I got my strap wrench from a Canadian hardware chain here called Princess Auto ( I'm one of those nasty Canadians Trump is complaining about). Not sure they're in the US but I saw ones like it on Amazon . Looked like they come in a 2 piece set. Mine has about a 6" handle with an 18" length of strap.
Insofar as the back up plan using pex, I figure I'm going to remove the faucet from the shower wall and pull the flexible supply lines up and out through the stem holes, make final connections and then push things back and reattach the faucet. ( that would mean having faucet locknuts already arround the supply lines so I could secure the faucet to the stall.
If it comes to this I'll be posting pics if someone can tell me how to attach them to post
Canuck eh! I just ordered one from Amazon 6" $5 something. Free shipping! Here's what my inside looks like. I can reach the white connectors and should be able to disconnect the hoses without much effort. Not sure what the hose connection looks like, other than the 90 angle? It was 100 something in my MH this afternoon so I didn't want to get all sweaty. Click image for larger version

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Trying to figure out what that black mass is above the hoses.
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Old 06-27-2018, 04:00 PM   #18
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Expanding foam for filling in gaps and deadener and other uses.
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Old 06-27-2018, 06:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomore9-5 View Post
Schvarak I got my strap wrench from a Canadian hardware chain here called Princess Auto ( I'm one of those nasty Canadians Trump is complaining about). Not sure they're in the US but I saw ones like it on Amazon . Looked like they come in a 2 piece set. Mine has about a 6" handle with an 18" length of strap.
Insofar as the back up plan using pex, I figure I'm going to remove the faucet from the shower wall and pull the flexible supply lines up and out through the stem holes, make final connections and then push things back and reattach the faucet. ( that would mean having faucet locknuts already arround the supply lines so I could secure the faucet to the stall.
If it comes to this I'll be posting pics if someone can tell me how to attach them to post

You have to remember the faucet locknuts will not fit over the fittings on the pex. Unless the leaking is at the pex crimp you should be able to tighten the pex fittings by hand. There should be a rubber gasket in the fitting and you just tighten by hand. If possible use a small 6" channel lock pliers to snug a little more.
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Old 06-27-2018, 06:31 PM   #20
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You have to remember the faucet locknuts will not fit over the fittings on the pex.
Yup
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