Hot water heater support....

GaeTim · 07-13-2013, 10:08 AM

Hey guys, well it's been a few months of owning our new/used Georgetown and so far we love it other than some bad factory assembly issues just like this one...

I noticed the hot water tank door bowing inward at the top but thought nothing of it until I had to replace the 110v heater element as it was burned out when we bought it...figures. Anyway when I removed the old heater element I found it to be totally incased with calcium and had a hard time getting it out of the hole! This is probably why it burned out....so anyway I started cleaning out the tank and while doing so I found it to be very loose and bouncy so I looked at the underside of the compartment to find it bulged downward and decided it was time to investigate.

I pulled the 4 long screws & 4 short ones along the sides, removed the sealer, and opened the hatch to find the most ridiculous setup as mentioned in an old post I found. I didn't want to remove the whole tank so I installed a 2x4 along either side of the wood base that the tank sits on then added spacers under either end of the 2x4's to level and raise the tank. I made them a bit wide at the back were it sits on the compartment floor to distribute the weight. It worked great!
I'm now making some new brackets to better secure the hatch door as the screws were pulling through on the other ones.

I'm also going to add some insulation on the hot water pipes and in around the compartment and also secure up a few hoses & wires too.

So check your water heater supports guys, it's worth the work!

Tim

cfsoistman · 07-13-2013, 11:56 AM

Hey Tim, know the feeling all too well about water heater support. See my post below.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...man-21579.html

**Herk7769** · 07-13-2013, 12:03 PM

Has the anode been changed regularly?

That much calcium is a bad sign regarding the water quality.

GaeTim · 07-13-2013, 12:32 PM

cfsoistman, actually I replied to that post but it wouldn't work cause it was too old or something so I just started another.
Too much huh, how they would think that poorly designed little support would hold 10 gals of water.... while the RV is moving to boot!!

Actually I have found many little things throughout the RV that will need improving....I'm sure you have too...and after we've fixed all of them we'll have the best built RV's on the road!

herk7769, thanks for the info and pictures. We purchased our 2011 used and so whom ever owned it before mustn't have known to look for calcium buildup and to tell you the truth I would have never thought about it either so lesson learned.

The anode is in new condition so either it was changed recently or it wasn't affected by the calcium...I think it was changed myself.

Thanks again guys, happy trails

Tim

cfsoistman · 07-13-2013, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaeTim

cfsoistman, actually I replied to that post but it wouldn't work cause it was too old or something so I just started another.
Too much huh, how they would think that poorly designed little support would hold 10 gals of water.... while the RV is moving to boot!!

Actually I have found many little things throughout the RV that will need improving....I'm sure you have too...and after we've fixed all of them we'll have the best built RV's on the road!

Thanks again guys, happy trails

Tim

The majority of things I've found are minor, a couple were more serious. One electrical issue that was puzzling but eventually I found the problem and corrected it. Lost a rear, but that was Ford's issue with the Dana built rear. Everything was taken care of and it runs and rides better than ever. One thing I would recommend should your drawer rail supports break is go to Home Depot, not sure if Lowes sells the same type but they fit the same as the cheepy things available from RV dealers and are about half the price but twice as strong.

GaeTim · 07-13-2013, 03:00 PM

I found most things to be minor as well so far. As for parts I always try Home Depot or Lowes when replacing anything but when it comes to strictly RV parts I go to eBay as they are the same parts and usually much cheaper even with shipping.
...I purchased my replacement elect. water heater element for under $30 shipped, probably could have gotten it cheaper but I was at a campsite when I ordered it on-line and didn't want to be sitting at the computer all day.
I'll watch those drawer rail supports, thanks

Tim

cfsoistman · 07-13-2013, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaeTim

I found most things to be minor as well so far. As for parts I always try Home Depot or Lowes when replacing anything but when it comes to strictly RV parts I go to eBay as they are the same parts and usually much cheaper even with shipping.
...I purchased my replacement elect. water heater element for under $30 shipped, probably could have gotten it cheaper but I was at a campsite when I ordered it on-line and didn't want to be sitting at the computer all day.
I'll watch those drawer rail supports, thanks

Tim

Ouch on the water heater element!
Under $10 at HD.
Camco Copper/Zinc Chromate Screw-in Electric Water Heater Element-15120 at The Home Depot

eBay is definitely the place to shop for RV stuff. I bought all of the filters, spark plugs etc for the generator. Onan parts not generics either.

GaeTim · 07-13-2013, 04:31 PM

Oh wow, I didn't know they could be bought at Home depot...

LOL...oh well. Actually they may not carry it here in Canada and it they do it is probably more $

Anyway, thanks for the heads up

Tim

**Herk7769** · 07-13-2013, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfsoistman

Ouch on the water heater element!
Under $10 at HD.
Camco Copper/Zinc Chromate Screw-in Electric Water Heater Element-15120 at The Home Depot

eBay is definitely the place to shop for RV stuff. I bought all of the filters, spark plugs etc for the generator. Onan parts not generics either.

Be aware that the element you linked to is 2000 watts. That is twice the wattage rating of the OEM element. The service wires may not be able to handle that amperage (without checking).

TURBS · 07-13-2013, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

Be aware that the element you linked to is 2000 watts. That is twice the wattage rating of the OEM element. The service wires may not be able to handle that amperage (without checking).

Good catch ........ mulligan removed

GaeTim · 07-14-2013, 05:27 AM

Good catch indeed however if you're already in the compartment working on the tank support you will have access to the supply wire from the breaker box to the heater and can upgrade the wire to #12 then add a 20amp breaker.
...or if there's room in the box for a double breaker you can upgrade to a 220v heater....hmmm, maybe next time I replace the heater

fonzie · 07-14-2013, 05:48 AM

Wouldn't replace with 220 v heater as if you are not on a 50 amp pedestal supply, your heater won't work.....

GaeTim · 07-14-2013, 06:29 AM

You are right! Thanks for that

Tim

Falcon35 · 07-14-2013, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaeTim

Oh wow, I didn't know they could be bought at Home depot...

LOL...oh well. Actually they may not carry it here in Canada and it they do it is probably more $

Anyway, thanks for the heads up

Tim

I found it at Home Hardware with the proper rating but ordered it on the web.
Our SIL is coming up from OH next week so I had it shipped to their place and he will bring it up with him. The plug, wrench and an anode rod for just over $30.00. If I would have needed to have it shipped across the boarder I would have bought it here in ON.

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