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07-04-2020, 06:14 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 436
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How to Tighten the Pipe at the Faucet Device
We have a 364TS. I discovered a slow leak in the middle bath under the sink where the hot water line connects to the faucet. How the hell do you tighten those connections? What tool do I need to go buy?
This trip has been about water issues.
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07-04-2020, 06:29 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 7,053
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Basin wrench
Bruce
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2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond Edition
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
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07-04-2020, 06:46 AM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,243
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Be careful tightening. If the faucet is not metal or the or the connector on the end of the water line is plastic a tool may crack it.
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07-04-2020, 07:38 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob
Be careful tightening. If the faucet is not metal or the or the connector on the end of the water line is plastic a tool may crack it.
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I should’ve had greater clarity in my comments. Attached is the image at the elbow and I’m not sure how you tighten the sort of clamp.
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07-04-2020, 07:38 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 436
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Is there a separate shut off for this area?
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07-04-2020, 07:49 AM
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#6
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FLY4FUN
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: PIEDMONT NC
Posts: 321
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If the leak is at the pinch clamp there's probably nothing you can do to tighten & stop it. It's prob time for a re-do with a new section of PEX, new faucet connector, new elbow & proper PEX type clamps installed with proper PEX friendly tools. PEX stuff works well without leaks 97.3% of the time...when it doesn't it's a pain .
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07-04-2020, 08:05 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: N. Illinois
Posts: 2,371
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Have you tried re-pinching the clamp? Try a pair of end cutters or pop for a pair of oetiker clamp pliers. They re under $20 . Eventually you'll need them. All those fittings depend on a cone washer for the seal. They are not pipe threads. If the cone washer is the problem get a new one. I found what I needed at Menards in plumbing section little bin drawers as 11/32 x 3/8 slip joint washer, stk # 38805B, made by Danco inc. Worked for me. Keep a spare JIC!
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07-04-2020, 08:41 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,505
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When a pex joint is leaking, about all you can do is cut out the joint and redo it.
I do this with Sharkbite push to connect fittings. Much easier than using pex band clamps. Sometimes I have to add in extra tubing when there is not enough slack.
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Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
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07-04-2020, 09:29 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff64
Have you tried re-pinching the clamp? Try a pair of end cutters or pop for a pair of oetiker clamp pliers. They re under $20 . Eventually you'll need them. All those fittings depend on a cone washer for the seal. They are not pipe threads. If the cone washer is the problem get a new one. I found what I needed at Menards in plumbing section little bin drawers as 11/32 x 3/8 slip joint washer, stk # 38805B, made by Danco inc. Worked for me. Keep a spare JIC!
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Totally makes sense. Sometimes I think I have more tools on this rig that I have at home. So why not spring for something else. I’m up for the adventure. Thank you for the input
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07-04-2020, 09:30 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
When a pex joint is leaking, about all you can do is cut out the joint and redo it.
I do this with Sharkbite push to connect fittings. Much easier than using pex band clamps. Sometimes I have to add in extra tubing when there is not enough slack.
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Great idea and I’ll look this up. I didn’t know if there was something I could do well out on the road but other than that I’ll go to the hardware store again. I appreciate your wisdom and knowledge.
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07-04-2020, 12:53 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 56
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Shark Bite
www.sharkbite.com
Available at all big box stores, and Amazon. They work great.
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07-04-2020, 01:04 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Posts: 468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 14apex
If the leak is at the pinch clamp there's probably nothing you can do to tighten & stop it. It's prob time for a re-do with a new section of PEX, new faucet connector, new elbow & proper PEX type clamps installed with proper PEX friendly tools. PEX stuff works well without leaks 97.3% of the time...when it doesn't it's a pain .
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Exactly what 14apex said. The ONLY way to eliminate the weep or leak is to cut right at the end of the fitting then, use a new fitting and crimp tool replace the crimp band. It can be difficult to get a proper bite of the crimp ring and that is probably why it leaked in the first place. The easiest way to get to the fitting is to remove the sink replace the crimp band and replace the sink to the top.
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07-04-2020, 01:11 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bzac1954
Exactly what 14apex said. The ONLY way to eliminate the weep or leak is to cut right at the end of the fitting then, use a new fitting and crimp tool replace the crimp band. It can be difficult to get a proper bite of the crimp ring and that is probably why it leaked in the first place. The easiest way to get to the fitting is to remove the sink replace the crimp band and replace the sink to the top.
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Actually, the easiest thing to do is use Sharkbite fittings. No need to wrestle with the band or the crimp tool. Just make a fresh cut in the Pex, debur it, then push on the fitting for a permanent fix. I'm all for easy.
I usually carry at least a couple of 90° and couplers of Sharkbite fittings and a short length of pex. Have fixed leakage problems for myself and fellow RVers several times while travelling around. And if you want to redo your plumbing later, the sharkbites are removable and reusable. And yes, I'm a fan.
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Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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07-04-2020, 01:14 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Posts: 468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
Actually, the easiest thing to do is use Sharkbite fittings. No need to wrestle with the band or the crimp tool. Just make a fresh cut in the Pex, debur it, then push on the fitting for a permanent fix. I'm all for easy.
I usually carry at least a couple of 90° and couplers of Sharkbite fittings and a short length of pex. Have fixed leakage problems for myself and fellow RVers several times while travelling around. And if you want to redo your plumbing later, the sharkbites are removable and reusable. And yes, I'm a fan.
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Ya got me there! Sharkbites are the best and easiest item out for repairs and can be considered permanent fix.
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07-04-2020, 01:21 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 167
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X2 on the Sharkbites. I've used them multiple times not just in our 5er, but other RV's at camp(s).
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Ed & Laureen
2005 F-250 4X4 SD 6.0 Powerstroke
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07-04-2020, 01:33 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Lodi CA
Posts: 1,211
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Do like I did go buy a two bolt 1/2" or was it 5/8" lock collar can't remember anyhoo that is how I fixed a drip on mine under the sink hasn't leaked since. Just put it over the clamp ring and tighten until it stops. As far as sharkbites they do work OK but I had one on my house plumbing fail as the "O" ring on them does get old and brittle.
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07-05-2020, 08:44 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 869
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If you get a crimp tool, You can probably tighten the existing crimp. It's impossible to do this with the pipe connected to the sink but, since it's easy to disconnect the pipe from the sink, you can then move it to someplace where you can get the tool onto the clamp.
I had the same issue with the cold water feed to the shower; a problem that was located only after the faucet broke and needed a replacement. Unfortunately, even with the faucet removed, there isn't enough slack in that pipe to make it easy to get a crimping tool on the pipe.
Phil
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07-05-2020, 10:46 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ALASKA (World's Biggest Campground)
Posts: 6,594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmwildcat
when a pex joint is leaking, about all you can do is cut out the joint and redo it.
I do this with sharkbite push to connect fittings. Much easier than using pex band clamps. Sometimes i have to add in extra tubing when there is not enough slack.
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07-05-2020, 10:54 AM
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#19
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FLY4FUN
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: PIEDMONT NC
Posts: 321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
When a pex joint is leaking, about all you can do is cut out the joint and redo it.
I do this with Sharkbite push to connect fittings. Much easier than using pex band clamps. Sometimes I have to add in extra tubing when there is not enough slack.
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Amen -- great info.! "Push fittings" work...and LAST, and don't leak. The Sharkbite brass fittings can be a bit heavy if in an area that allows the tubing to flex or vibrate when traveling, so prob a good idea to secure to prevent another area from loosening up.
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07-08-2020, 09:39 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Indy
Posts: 73
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Leak at sink
If you have time install a quarter turn shutoff valve in a easy spot to get to. with pex clamps or shArkbite, some stores call them by another name. Like someone else said be sure to debur both in and out. Sharks seal on inside and my plumber says to put dish soap in and out on the tubing or pipe. Watch you tube and you won’t have to pipe glue for PVC again.
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