Hydraulic Jack Leak

[kentdavido]

2016 364TS. We keep the big guy indoors. This leak appeared. Any ideas. He was just sitting there. I’ll Crawl underneath and make sure things are tightened up. I just found it odd that he hasn’t run in a couple months and truthfully we haven’t used the leveling jacks since last fall. I’ll open up the case and check his levels. What do you use for hydraulic jack fluid or recommend? Also is there a marker that shows you how much you should have.

[Msgtret]

First check where and what is leaking. If from one of the fittings, retorque the fitting and recheck for leaks. If leaking from the cylinder itself, have it rebuilt at a hydraulic repair shop. Don’t take it to a dealer for repair because they will just replace it for a stupid cost. I have repaired many of these for customers (I work at a hydraulic shop). I upgrade the seals to something that has some longevity to it. As for fluid, look at the pump assembly to see if it has a tag on it for a recommended fluid. If not, ATF works well. MIL-H-5606 works the best if you can find it.

[kentdavido]

Originally Posted by Msgtret

First check where and what is leaking. If from one of the fittings, retorque the fitting and recheck for leaks. If leaking from the cylinder itself, have it rebuilt at a hydraulic repair shop. Don’t take it to a dealer for repair because they will just replace it for a stupid cost. I have repaired many of these for customers (I work at a hydraulic shop). I upgrade the seals to something that has some longevity to it. As for fluid, look at the pump assembly to see if it has a tag on it for a recommended fluid. If not, ATF works well. MIL-H-5606 works the best if you can find it.

Hey thank you for that information and I’m going to crawl underneath of him tomorrow morning and I thought I would check to see if it was the fittings. I appreciate that advice. You guys make my world an easy place.

[NXR]

Be DARN certain you use the correct fluid as noted by the manufacturer. If those are Lippert jacks, Lippert uses DEXRON III automatic transmission fluid or the later equivalent. If yours use ATF, do NOT use the Ford Type F ATF. Lippert specifically prohibits that fluid because it damages their equipment.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0002088.pdf

The reservoir tank level usually should only be set when all jacks are up and all slides are in, if you have hydraulic slides.

Ray

[Msgtret]

5606 works well with Dexron because Dexron was based on 5606, but you are correct on the type F. Under no circumstances should you ever use BRAKE FLUID!!! Every hydraulic component would have to be removed and rebuilt. 5606 is a little better because it’s less effected by temperature. MIl-H-83282 is even better.

[kentdavido]

Originally Posted by NXR

Be DARN certain you use the correct fluid as noted by the manufacturer. If those are Lippert jacks, Lippert uses DEXRON III automatic transmission fluid or the later equivalent. If yours use ATF, do NOT use the Ford Type F ATF. Lippert specifically prohibits that fluid because it damages their equipment.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd_0002088.pdf

The reservoir tank level usually should only be set when all jacks are up and all slides are in, if you have hydraulic slides.

Ray

Wow... totally thank you so much.

[kentdavido]

Originally Posted by Msgtret

First check where and what is leaking. If from one of the fittings, retorque the fitting and recheck for leaks. If leaking from the cylinder itself, have it rebuilt at a hydraulic repair shop. Don’t take it to a dealer for repair because they will just replace it for a stupid cost. I have repaired many of these for customers (I work at a hydraulic shop). I upgrade the seals to something that has some longevity to it. As for fluid, look at the pump assembly to see if it has a tag on it for a recommended fluid. If not, ATF works well. MIL-H-5606 works the best if you can find it.

So here’s the issue. So I need some help. I am a novice. I have tools and that’s about it. So I tighten the nut closest to the jack and that seem to allow more fluid coming out so I assumed it was the other part that’s threaded that might need tightened. I mean I could take it out, but I’m concerned about the amount of fluid I’m gonna lose and then I’m concerned about air in the line. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[wrapperman]

I believe the nut against the cylinder may just need to be tightened. Turn the nut while holding the elbow firm. The elbow does not need to be turned, just held in place while the nut is firmly tightened. I hope that makes sense?

Now, if you want to take the elbow off you will need to disconnect the hydraulic motor power, take the hose off, then loosen the nut a little. The elbow will screw off.
The hose may be under pressure.

[Msgtret]

Originally Posted by wrapperman

I believe the nut against the cylinder may just need to be tightened. Turn the nut while holding the elbow firm. The elbow does not need to be turned, just held in place while the nut is firmly tightened. I hope that makes sense?

Now, if you want to take the elbow off you will need to disconnect the hydraulic motor power, take the hose off, then loosen the nut a little. The elbow will screw off.
The hose may be under pressure.

Yes, just tighten the jam nut. If it still leaks, make sure there is mono pressure in the bin and disconnect the hose from the fitting. Remove the fitting from the cylinder and change the o-ring. Looks to be a #6 o-ring. You can always get one at a hydraulic shop or hardware store. If you were near me I would just give you one. It cost me about .03 cents.

[kentdavido]

Originally Posted by Msgtret

Yes, just tighten the jam nut. If it still leaks, make sure there is mono pressure in the bin and disconnect the hose from the fitting. Remove the fitting from the cylinder and change the o-ring. Looks to be a #6 o-ring. You can always get one at a hydraulic shop or hardware store. If you were near me I would just give you one. It cost me about .03 cents.

Good morning and I sent you a message directly.

[kentdavido]

Originally Posted by kentdavido

Attachment 254689

So here’s the issue. So I need some help. I am a novice. I have tools and that’s about it. So I tighten the nut closest to the jack and that seem to allow more fluid coming out so I assumed it was the other part that’s threaded that might need tightened. I mean I could take it out, but I’m concerned about the amount of fluid I’m gonna lose and then I’m concerned about air in the line. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi I sent you a message. Thanks

[wrapperman]

Your mailbox is full and not accepting any more messages.
I can post my reply here or resend it after you have deleted some messages.
Bob

[kentdavido]

Originally Posted by wrapperman

Your mailbox is full and not accepting any more messages.
I can post my reply here or resend it after you have deleted some messages.
Bob

I had no idea such a thing could happen so I’m just cleaned off a bunch of stuff. Thank you

[wrapperman]

Good morning Kent. I was going by memory of what Lippert told me what to do on my issue. It was slightly different than your issue. My issue was at the distribution block attached to the pump motor. I disconnected the motor wires at the hydraulic motor itself. This kept the motor from turning on. I suppose you could trip the automotive style breaker going to the pump motor is another way. They told me to take the hydraulic hose line off first. You do this with two wrenches, one holding the elbow and the other loosening the hose. After removing the hose I then loosened the jam nut a little then I removed the elbow. I replace the o-ring and reinstalled everything back in the reverse order.
Tightening the jam nut did not solve my problem. I had to replace the o-ring.
I had very little fluid come out, it wasn't much and it certainly didn't squit out like being under pressure.
Don't be concerned about introducing air into the system because it is a self bleeding system. Just extend and retract a few times will bled the air out. Just maintain fluid level. Please post your results and let us know how it went.

[kentdavido]

Originally Posted by wrapperman

Good morning Kent. I was going by memory of what Lippert told me what to do on my issue. It was slightly different than your issue. My issue was at the distribution block attached to the pump motor. I disconnected the motor wires at the hydraulic motor itself. This kept the motor from turning on. I suppose you could trip the automotive style breaker going to the pump motor is another way. They told me to take the hydraulic hose line off first. You do this with two wrenches, one holding the elbow and the other loosening the hose. After removing the hose I then loosened the jam nut a little then I removed the elbow. I replace the o-ring and reinstalled everything back in the reverse order.
Tightening the jam nut did not solve my problem. I had to replace the o-ring.
I had very little fluid come out, it wasn't much and it certainly didn't squit out like being under pressure.
Don't be concerned about introducing air into the system because it is a self bleeding system. Just extend and retract a few times will bled the air out. Just maintain fluid level. Please post your results and let us know how it went.

Thank you

[wrapperman]

If you do replace the o-ring be sure to use a "high pressure" o-ring.

[kentdavido]

Originally Posted by wrapperman

If you do replace the o-ring be sure to use a "high pressure" o-ring.

So another stupid question, where do I go in Tulsa to find a high pressure o ring. Would an automotive parts store. Have them?

[270S]

FYI, I just discovered that I have a "similar" problem - in the Lift System Leak thread (https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ak-231834.html) if y'all do not mind looking at.

[270S]

Originally Posted by wrapperman

Good morning Kent. I was going by memory of what Lippert told me what to do on my issue. It was slightly different than your issue. My issue was at the distribution block attached to the pump motor. I disconnected the motor wires at the hydraulic motor itself. This kept the motor from turning on. I suppose you could trip the automotive style breaker going to the pump motor is another way. They told me to take the hydraulic hose line off first. You do this with two wrenches, one holding the elbow and the other loosening the hose. After removing the hose I then loosened the jam nut a little then I removed the elbow. I replace the o-ring and reinstalled everything back in the reverse order.
Tightening the jam nut did not solve my problem. I had to replace the o-ring.
I had very little fluid come out, it wasn't much and it certainly didn't squit out like being under pressure.
Don't be concerned about introducing air into the system because it is a self bleeding system. Just extend and retract a few times will bled the air out. Just maintain fluid level. Please post your results and let us know how it went.

Where is the breaker you mention located?

[wrapperman]

The power cable running between the pump and battery.
Here is an imaging. You'll recognize it quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089KB5YC6...ing=UTF8&psc=1