Lippert/Kwickee Steps sagging

[Iggy]

After many years of useage my electric 3 steps started to sag to the right and semed to flex down when stepping on it.
Closer inspection showed a sleeve rivit was ready to fall out.
Not much holding it in when the rivit was pressed.
Anyway, ordered 2 new replacement bolts, copper sleeve, nut and spacer fro Etrailer.
Two of them cost me with shipping and tax $26.19
A bit expensive but unique enough that it would be difficult to find at Ace Hardware.

Here is the steps showing the damged rivit and the replacement.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...SABEgJF0fD_BwE

[NXR]

I think this falls under the category of "They don't build them like they used to".

Mine started doing the same sagging and flexing after just a couple of months. Some of those giant "rivets" developed slop and one was pulled almost all the way through.

On another forum someone else complained about the same thing and we compared pictures. His step was failing in the same places and the same way mine was.

A Kwikee steps program manager announced himself on an FB forum so I posted my pictures and he asked for more details. I provided him the info and PM'd him the part number and serial number. The result was yet one more factory person vanishing.

I did get a new set installed under warranty that were far more solid. I still didn't like how much they moved so I started putting leveling blocks under the stairs to make them solid. That got old so I bought a pair of Camco 44531 step stabilizers:

https://www.campingworld.com/adjusta...zer-14033.html

I wish they would fall over if the steps get retracted inadvertently, though. The leveling blocks would just get slid off of each other.

The motorhome front tires are currently on 8" of ramp due to the slope of the driveway, which is the reason for the two 2x12 blocks. I'll probably still use one just to spread the weight out when on unpaved surfaces. The steps are as solid as the ones in a house now.

In the one picture you can see the air between the step support and the step because the rivet is pulling through. The other pictures shows how much of that rivet has pulled through compared to another.

I, too, bought some bolts and self-locking nuts in case the steps failed before the replacement assembly could get installed.

Ray

[Iggy]

YOur picture show a 2 step or do you actually have a 3 step?
I see now your way up high on the levellers. Now I see why you need the step supports.
No way my DW would put up with that amount of height with her knee replacement.

Funny the price they charge for the steps $1,200 plus you'd expect better quality.
Oh well they make more on the replacemnt bolt and bushing.

[NXR]

Originally Posted by Iggy

Your picture show a 2 step or do you actually have a 3 step?

Three step.

I see now your way up high on the levellers. Now I see why you need the step supports. No way my DW would put up with that amount of height with her knee replacement.

That's just at home because my driveway has a 3-degree slope. It's not in the picture but I have a stepstool that I put out so it becomes a four-step.

Even if we're on a concrete pad the steps need braced because of the movement. At the last place we did not need the stepstool because we were on level concrete. So it went underneath the bottom step with a few pieces of wood on it to keep the steps from moving. My wife has knee issues so the instability of the step caused her some issues as well. I bought the stabilizers after we got back from that trip.

Ray

[TriGlide]

Originally Posted by NXR

I think this falls under the category of "They don't build them like they used to".

Mine started doing the same sagging and flexing after just a couple of months. Some of those giant "rivets" developed slop and one was pulled almost all the way through.

On another forum someone else complained about the same thing and we compared pictures. His step was failing in the same places and the same way mine was.

A Kwikee steps program manager announced himself on an FB forum so I posted my pictures and he asked for more details. I provided him the info and PM'd him the part number and serial number. The result was yet one more factory person vanishing.

I did get a new set installed under warranty that were far more solid. I still didn't like how much they moved so I started putting leveling blocks under the stairs to make them solid. That got old so I bought a pair of Camco 44531 step stabilizers:

https://www.campingworld.com/adjusta...zer-14033.html

I wish they would fall over if the steps get retracted inadvertently, though. The leveling blocks would just get slid off of each other.

The motorhome front tires are currently on 8" of ramp due to the slope of the driveway, which is the reason for the two 2x12 blocks. I'll probably still use one just to spread the weight out when on unpaved surfaces. The steps are as solid as the ones in a house now.

In the one picture you can see the air between the step support and the step because the rivet is pulling through. The other pictures shows how much of that rivet has pulled through compared to another.

I, too, bought some bolts and self-locking nuts in case the steps failed before the replacement assembly could get installed.

Ray

I use step stabilizers on our Georgetown 335DS and also made a 5" tall step box to set on the ground so that last step is not so far to the ground.. Much easier to get in and out of coach for my wife..She is 5'2"..

[Papaduck]

Go to Lowes and look in the Specialty Hardware section for a stainless steel shoulder bolt and that matches the diameter of the rivets. Had the same thing happen on our previous Unit. Worked like a charm.

[Boricua_RVer]

Originally Posted by Iggy

After many years of useage my electric 3 steps started to sag to the right and semed to flex down when stepping on it.
Closer inspection showed a sleeve rivit was ready to fall out.
Not much holding it in when the rivit was pressed.
Anyway, ordered 2 new replacement bolts, copper sleeve, nut and spacer fro Etrailer.
Two of them cost me with shipping and tax $26.19
A bit expensive but unique enough that it would be difficult to find at Ace Hardware.

Here is the steps showing the damged rivit and the replacement.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...SABEgJF0fD_BwE

I have the same sagging issue but on the left side. After a closer inspection it turned out to be that the soldering between the top plate where the bolts are holding to the chassis and the down plate where the arm is attached broke off. I use the adjustable stabilizer to hold in place and keep it from sagging further. I plan to take them off, hammer it back to place and solder it again.

[NXR]

Originally Posted by Boricua_RVer

I have the same sagging issue but on the left side. After a closer inspection it turned out to be that the soldering between the top plate where the bolts are holding to the chassis and the down plate where the arm is attached broke off. I use the adjustable stabilizer to hold in place and keep it from sagging further. I plan to take them off, hammer it back to place and solder it again.

I'd think it would be welded and not soldered. I wouldn't think solder would be anywhere near strong enough. Please follow-up with what it really is.

Ray

[Boricua_RVer]

Originally Posted by NXR

I'd think it would be welded and not soldered. I wouldn't think solder would be anywhere near strong enough. Please follow-up with what it really is.



Ray

Ray, you are right. Wrong choice of word it is welding. Thanks.

[TriGlide]

Originally Posted by Boricua_RVer

I have the same sagging issue but on the left side. After a closer inspection it turned out to be that the soldering between the top plate where the bolts are holding to the chassis and the down plate where the arm is attached broke off. I use the adjustable stabilizer to hold in place and keep it from sagging further. I plan to take them off, hammer it back to place and solder it again.

Our frame ripped apart from where the step top plate bolts to the frame and we had to reinforce the frame with 1 1/2 angle iron and then drill holes to remount the step top plate as the frame material is too thin to support the steps continuous use.