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Old 05-19-2018, 12:42 PM   #1
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Looking at the V-10 Life expectancy

I now have my 2012 Georgetown XL 378TS with 60,000 mile and don't plan on slowing down any as long as I have my health as they say.

I have done research on the 3 valve V-10 engine and have heard many with F-250 and F-350 with many with 150,000 miles and up to 200,000 miles on them with no major engine issues.

Now my engine and drive train is running great with no issues as I usually stay on top of all maintenance myself or with help from Ford.

I change oil and filter every 4,000 to 5,000 miles.
I have flushed transmission and radiator systems at 35,000 miles
I have also flushed brakes at 35,000 miles.
I add fuel additive each year when I plan a long haul of 1,500 -2,000 miles
( I Have used Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor/Fuel Treatment & Injector Cleaner for the past 6 years on this engine)
I have checked rear differential oil and replaced at 50,000 miles



Future maintenance
1. Brake flush soon
2. 80,000 miles spark plugs and wires, unless something happens earlier. Ford say they are good for 100,000 miles
3. Replace Disc Brakes around 75,000 miles if they show wear.

So who has more miles on their Ford V-10 3 valve engine?
Have I missed anything you would add?
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Old 05-19-2018, 12:54 PM   #2
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IMHO, the Ford V10 is one of the best gas engines out there if later than 2000. The early ones like to blow spark plugs. I think that was fixed in the 2001 model year.
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Old 05-19-2018, 01:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rskeans View Post
IMHO, the Ford V10 is one of the best gas engines out there if later than 2000. The early ones like to blow spark plugs. I think that was fixed in the 2001 model year.
I think that was when it was a 2 valve engine and I believe in 2005 they changed to a 3 valve engine which probably was the fix.
So we are talking about the newer engines.
Thanks
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Old 05-19-2018, 03:00 PM   #4
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My last V-10 MH (Georgie Boy) was traded in at 75000 miles (11 years) and all I did was change the oil once a year. Never had an issue with the engine or any of its components. The V-10 is the least of my expectations for issues with current Georgetown MH.
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Old 05-19-2018, 03:06 PM   #5
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The plug problem was/is? due to the aluminum heads and the threads being destroyed. I would check into that before replacing the plugs yourself.
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Old 05-19-2018, 03:07 PM   #6
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I’m betting that Iggy is way out front of the rest of us when it comes to mileage.......and maintenance so far.

I’m watching, but if one continues to do their regular maintenance like Iggy says....I’m almost betting you can “will” the V-10 to your kids
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Old 05-19-2018, 03:10 PM   #7
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I have 96,000 miles (155,000 km) on mine, change synthetic oil every 6,000 miles (10,000 km) or once a year. So far no issues. Due for a spark plug change.
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:25 PM   #8
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Spark Plug change NOTE.

I have read that when you hit 100,000 miles and want to get the plugs changed leave it to Ford dealer as I have read it is tricky.

I have read on a cold engine to just crack the spark plug thread 1/2 of a turn then put like WD 40 down along the base of the spark plug and leave over night to seep down the threads to the bottom of the spark plug.
They say in some engines the carbon build ups on the bottom of the spark plug base inside the head and must be softened before you try and remove the plug.
I know we are going off subject of my original thread but this is just a side note FYI only.
This is always a great way to have everyone learn more about their rigs.
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Old 05-19-2018, 07:36 PM   #9
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I've done several sets of those plugs. I've had good success using an impact gun to remove them without breaking them off. I wish I had pics to clarify what happens, but they are made in 3 pieces. The center ceramic part, the hex and threads which slides down over the top of the ceramic part, and a "tube" which is actually the ground electrode slides up from the bottom. The bottom edge of the threaded part is "squished" over the tube and forms the seat where the plug seals against the cylinder head. It's this tube that gets stuck in the head and the squished part comes un squished when you remove the plugs. When you use an impact gun it breaks the carbon loose faster than it unsquishes the top part and they plugs come right out.
Of course if they do break off... They're is s tool available to remove the pieces without pulling the cylinder head.
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:41 AM   #10
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V 10 life

Iggy
I was transportation mgr. at a major co. that had many v-10s 3 valve. It was not uncommon to get 400,000 miles. The secret is to change fluids and keep RPM under 4000
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Old 05-20-2018, 11:08 AM   #11
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Thanks buddy2012 for your experienced statement.
I do my own maintenance and do change my oil and filter more often than others. My interior of my engine should be sparkling clean with no gunk buildup.
Keeping it below 4,000 rpm 99% of the time except climbing BIG mountain passes. But that keeps the carbon from building up in the cylinders. lol
My exhaust pipe is clean with no carbon buildup at all.
Passed my state emissions with flying colors each year.

Others forget to flush the brakes every 30,000 because those parts help you stop safely. As I said this is due again in my rig.
Thanks again.
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Old 05-20-2018, 12:02 PM   #12
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V-10 life

My V-10 just blew up with 36,000 miles on it. Replacement cost will be $11,000.
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Old 05-20-2018, 12:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010lexington255gts View Post
My V-10 just blew up with 36,000 miles on it. Replacement cost will be $11,000.

Money well spent.
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Old 05-20-2018, 12:56 PM   #14
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Fords V-10s are proven to be the best modular engines. Check out 5 Star Tuning. They are fantastic & will drastically improve performance. They specialize in the V10.
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Old 05-20-2018, 02:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddbck View Post
Fords V-10s are proven to be the best modular engines. Check out 5 Star Tuning. They are fantastic & will drastically improve performance. They specialize in the V10.
I agree. I did the 5 Star Tuning and the difference between the factory tuning and the 5 Star Tuning is like night and day. Best thing I ever did for my 2011 Georgetown.

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Old 05-20-2018, 04:49 PM   #16
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Changing Plugs

I have own 3 vehicles with V10's from 2008 and newer. total miles exceeded 320K. The "secret" to plug maintenance/changing problems and engine performance is to change them before 80 K miles.
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by km5xa View Post
I agree. I did the 5 Star Tuning and the difference between the factory tuning and the 5 Star Tuning is like night and day. Best thing I ever did for my 2011 Georgetown.

Tell me more about the 5 Star Tune performance since you had it.
Many just say it makes the engine work less (lower RPM) at the same speed you would normally run.
Do you actually see a lower rpm at say 60mph compared to stock tune?

Just looking to hear what you have felt on your Georgetown.
Any increase in mpg?

May need to start a new thread if this gets going.




They sell the one for F-53 for $499 plus shipping which takes it up top $519 I think.
Here is a link to a special deal for $429.95 and free shipping
LINK
http://5startuning.com/product/irv2/
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Old 05-20-2018, 11:06 PM   #18
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Hi Iggy....36k on mine and zero problems but obviously can't offer you any advice. I'm interested in why you change our the brake fluid and why you use "berryman b-12".
What are the benefits of doing each?
I keep by brake fluid topped up and have never done a change our or used fuel additives. Religious about oil and other fluids including tranny change out but would like to have this be my last RV engine too!
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Old 05-21-2018, 04:31 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic Wolf View Post
I've done several sets of those plugs. I've had good success using an impact gun to remove them without breaking them off. I wish I had pics to clarify what happens, but they are made in 3 pieces. The center ceramic part, the hex and threads which slides down over the top of the ceramic part, and a "tube" which is actually the ground electrode slides up from the bottom. The bottom edge of the threaded part is "squished" over the tube and forms the seat where the plug seals against the cylinder head. It's this tube that gets stuck in the head and the squished part comes un squished when you remove the plugs. When you use an impact gun it breaks the carbon loose faster than it unsquishes the top part and they plugs come right out.
Of course if they do break off... They're is s tool available to remove the pieces without pulling the cylinder head.
My advice, after dealing with a Spark Plug issue on an 06 Ford F250 5.4 liter is to change them now, at 60,000. You will have less chance of the plugs sticking and causing problems.

Sometimes those removal tools work, sometimes not. When they don't it entails removing the cylinder heads from the engine (EXPENSIVE) (Mine Didn't come out with the tool)

The newest plugs are one piece. Ford has lowered the expected life of the plugs because of the removal issue.
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:03 AM   #20
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Brake fluid tends to absorb water from the air. Hydroscopic is the term I remember.

Likely 1/2% or so a year. Diluting the fluid with water. Harder on seals and metal.parts. There is a testing tool out there.

In the past car manufacturers did not recommend fluid flushes. After ten years or so often a brake component failed requiring all fluid to be replaced. Problem solved.

Now a days most manufactureres recommend flushing brakes every three years. Necessary? A good plan likely.

I do all my vehicles. On cars it is typically $80 not at the dealer. If you have the tool to,do,it it takes a half hour. Most of the effort is getting to,the bleeders. Fluid is a few dollars.
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