LP/CO Detector question by newbie

cecijoe · 11-25-2013, 10:08 PM

Hi folks,

I'm new to the RV community, having just bought my first motorhome, a 2008 Georgetown 350TS. The problem I'm having is that the CO/LP detector started chirping while the RV was sitting in my back yard with the gas off. When I turn on the engine for a while, the chirping stops. I've read several posts through Google, and everyone refers to the possibility of the "RV battery" being low or possibly need replacing. When you talk about the "RV battery," does that mean the battery at the engine compartment that versus the "house" batteries? The RV starts right up, so I wonder if the battery up front is bad, but I haven't done any voltage testing. Sorry for the dumb question. I'm just picking up the lingo.

VinceU · 11-25-2013, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cecijoe

Hi folks,

I'm new to the RV community, having just bought my first motorhome, a 2008 Georgetown 350TS. The problem I'm having is that the CO/LP detector started chirping while the RV was sitting in my back yard with the gas off. When I turn on the engine for a while, the chirping stops. I've read several posts through Google, and everyone refers to the possibility of the "RV battery" being low or possibly need replacing. When you talk about the "RV battery," does that mean the battery at the engine compartment that versus the "house" batteries? The RV starts right up, so I wonder if the battery up front is bad, but I haven't done any voltage testing. Sorry for the dumb question. I'm just picking up the lingo.

No such thing as "dumb" question. Coach battery (s) usually under the steps. Chassis battery under hood. Chassis is high current starting battery. The coach battery is long lasting Deep cycle. Totally different purposes. Have battery tested before changing.

OldCoot · 11-25-2013, 10:51 PM

The alarm is probably going off because the coach batteries are low and when you turn the switch on, it connects the batteries used for starting which have a higher charge. Once you start the engine, the coach batteries also get charged.

cecijoe · 11-25-2013, 10:51 PM

Still don't know which is the "RV battery." I'm trying to figure out which battery powers the LP/CO detector.

cecijoe · 11-25-2013, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cecijoe

Still don't know which is the "RV battery." I'm trying to figure out which battery powers the LP/CO detector.

I think I understand now. The coach batteries power the LP/CO detector. Thanks, folks! I guess I'm buying some new batteries......

VinceU · 11-25-2013, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cecijoe

Still don't know which is the "RV battery." I'm trying to figure out which battery powers the LP/CO detector.

In Georgetowns I've seen you remove inside steps to access.

**Herk7769** · 11-25-2013, 11:32 PM

You most likely don't need new batteries; just charge up the ones you have.

coupevillefish · 11-26-2013, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

You most likely don't need new batteries; just charge up the ones you have.

X2. As VinceU said, get them tested first. Your local auto parts store can do that. Also, check the water level.

On my 2004 GT all of the batteries are under the step.

Good luck.

Batts-toy · 11-26-2013, 07:02 AM

Batteries need a good charge on them (if they will take a charge) before they can be tested properly, charge them up good before taking them in for testing or the person testing them may charge them for you if you don't have a charger (don't let anyone sell you new batteries without charging yours before testing). It is very normal for the coach batteries to go down when not in use for a while so you need a battery tender to keep them charged when not using the RV or plug into shore power an your RV's converter will take care of it (I'm pretty sure the Georgetown will have a 3 stage converter so you won't overcharge the batteries).

cecijoe · 11-26-2013, 10:18 AM

Thanks, all. I've had the RV plugged into 15 amps at my house for the past two weeks. The beeping continues until I actually start the vehicle and let it run for about 10-15 minutes. I'm wondering now if I also need a new converter/charger since the coach batteries aren't holding a charge.

kenandterry · 11-26-2013, 10:19 AM

On my rig, if you're going to park for an extended time, the house batteries will discharge and weaken if I don't manually turn off the LP detector. The unit itself has an ON/OFF switch right on the faceplate to turn it off because it is wired directly to the house batteries beyond the switch that most people assume turns off all draw from the house batteries.

Check your rig.

As stated by some (and as is the way on my rig) the house batteries are located under the inside steps into the coach. Somewhere fairly close is the house battery switch to turn off current draw from these batteries......however the LP/CO in your model may STILL be powered from the batteries causing your batteries to drain. Check the detector to see if it has it's own switch.

**Herk7769** · 11-26-2013, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cecijoe

Thanks, all. I've had the RV plugged into 15 amps at my house for the past two weeks. The beeping continues until I actually start the vehicle and let it run for about 10-15 minutes. I'm wondering now if I also need a new converter/charger since the coach batteries aren't holding a charge.

Not sure what model you have in your Georgetown, but here is the test procedure for a WFCO.

There is also a fuse between the converter and the batteries that could have opened. Not sure of the exact location in your camper, but here is a general idea wiring diagram.

Batts-toy · 11-26-2013, 11:16 AM

Herk, Here is a question since I am not familiar with 50 amp service (assuming he has 50) if you connect 15 amp cord (115 volt) using an adapter is it possible the power is only supplying one half of the circuits in the MH and that 1/2 is not the side that feeds the converter so thus no charging occuring?

BamaBob · 11-26-2013, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cecijoe

Thanks, all. I've had the RV plugged into 15 amps at my house for the past two weeks.

Slightly off topic here - if you are going to continue to park your unit at your home (and why not!?

You may want to invest in having a electrician come out and put a dedicated line in for your rig. It is not that expensive (we had a 50amp dedicated circuit with surge/brown protection put in with over 50' of conduit + a weatherproof outdor receptacle for $250)

Now we can fully test the unit (both A/C or the fireplace), fully spin all systems up before a trip AND it makes a handy 'bungalow' for visitors

Batts-toy · 11-26-2013, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

Slightly off topic here - if you are going to continue to park your unit at your home (and why not!?

You may want to invest in having a electrician come out and put a dedicated line in for your rig. It is not that expensive (we had a 50amp dedicated circuit with surge/brown protection put in with over 50' of conduit + a weatherproof outdor receptacle for $250)

Now we can fully test the unit (both A/C or the fireplace), fully spin all systems up before a trip AND it makes a handy 'bungalow' for visitors

I installed my 30 amp outlet for the same reasons (and I am not suggesting anyone do their own electrical work, I know what I am doing) when my daughter comes in from Denver for the holidays she has her own place to stay, tv, fridge etc.

sherman12 · 11-26-2013, 12:15 PM

I found out this past season that the water level in the batteries will "cook" out with the rig constantly plugged into any electrical source, whether 15A or 50A. Check the water level in the batteries!

ramair · 11-26-2013, 12:44 PM

Here is another thought, the alarm itself could be going bad, they say they need to be replaced every 5 years. On the front cover there is a blinking code which should tell you if low voltage or bad detector. Just another thought.

**Herk7769** · 11-26-2013, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batts-toy

Herk, Here is a question since I am not familiar with 50 amp service (assuming he has 50) if you connect 15 amp cord (115 volt) using an adapter is it possible the power is only supplying one half of the circuits in the MH and that 1/2 is not the side that feeds the converter so thus no charging occuring?

I am not sure, but I think most commercial adapters power both legs from the single phase. Since both legs are 110 this is OK. Very seldom are actual 220 volt appliances installed in an RV.

Never had a 50 amp camper so I don't know for sure.

coupevillefish · 11-26-2013, 03:09 PM

All of my outlets work when pluggged in to 15 amp sat home. This includes fridge and battery charger.

My box is labeled 120/240 but there is no way I am going to test this.

Batts-toy · 11-26-2013, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coupevillefish

All of my outlets work when pluggged in to 15 amp sat home. This includes fridge and battery charger.

My box is labeled 120/240 but there is no way I am going to test this.

If you did test it you would find the system has 2 legs (hot wires) plus ground wire(s) that when tested seperately are 110 volts each, the way you arrive at 220 (240) is you have 2 breakers one from each of the 110v circuits. If you look at the breaker to any 220 (240) appliance in your home or RV you will find a double breaker which in effect sends 2 sources of 110v current to the appliance (2 phases).

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