My 2006 Georgetown Limp Mode

[Stupac7]

On our very first trip in the new to us RV it broke down. That was about a week and half ago. We did get it to a garage were the mechanic put on the OBD reader and it showed a code for throttle controller motor. He replaced it. Still wouldn't go. Did a computer re- set or flash it or something like that. The RV will now run normal for about 10 minutes or so and go back into limp mode. Which is where the unit will idle but nothing more. Ford tech has advised it is most likely a wiring issue. Anyone out there have a similar situation?

[cjd10]

I had that issue on my 2001 GMC Truck. Truck would do the same thing, run 10 to 15 minutes then go back to low power mode. Turned out to be dirty connection on the engine battery. If the vehicle's computer brain isn't getting the correct voltage strange things can happen

[rjshiflet]

We have a 2017 Ford F-350 dually and pulling our 41' Cardinal home one day our truck started basically shutting down. It gave errors something like "Hill Descent Control Fault", "Hill Start Assist Not Available", "Service AdvanceTrac" and "Reduced Engine Power". I was on a two-lane highway doing 30 mph or slower for the last 20 miles of our trip.

Our dealership quickly found the problem - a crimped wire in a wiring harness. They said it was a known issue with Ford, but they thought they had caught all (or most) of them at the factory. Obviously - ours wasn't caught. But, 24 hours later the truck was fixed and back on the road. We've towed once since then with no problem.

[cfo111]

could you tell me were you found your OBD connection. I looked high and low can't find mine. Let use know how you make out with your problem.

[Stupac7]

Originally Posted by cfo111

could you tell me were you found your OBD connection. I looked high and low can't find mine. Let use know how you make out with your problem.

We found our OBD port way up under the dash near the steering column toward the middle of the dash. It had been tied up there with a zip tie. The mechanic though maybe pushed up there by the video/ audio installer. You almost need a skinny person to be able to find it.

Didn't hear a thing from the mechanic today. That normally isn't a good thing.

[cfo111]

are you saying above steering column or center of dash

[Stupac7]

Originally Posted by cfo111

are you saying above steering column or center of dash

Like I said it may have been moved by the people that installed the audio system but mine was not right by the steering column, but zip tied over toward the middle of the dash, up high, and very hard to see.

[RudysWorld]

Originally Posted by cfo111

could you tell me were you found your OBD connection. I looked high and low can't find mine. Let use know how you make out with your problem.

My 2011 350 the OBD was attached to right side of the steering column. I believe this is where Ford attaches them, Ford requests they be moved to more visible location.

[Stupac7]

Originally Posted by RudysWorld

My 2011 350 the OBD was attached to right side of the steering column. I believe this is where Ford attaches them, Ford requests they be moved to more visible location.

Today we went to Black River Falls to pick up our RV. Dave Mc Clough the owner of the towing/service shop was simply super. We were expecting to have huge bill simply for all time/labor he spent finding the bad wire in the wiring harness on the motor that was still sending a shut down or limp mode OBD code. The throttle motor was still bad, but his charges were much more than reasonable. If you are ever in Black River Falls, Dave's shop will treat you right. Drove the RV to my sister and brother in-laws near Wisconsin Rapids Wisconsin. Everything ran smoothly without any hiccups. Now, to see if I can figure out what is wrong with one of my AC units.

[waiter21]

I'm very curious as to exactly what they found and did to fix it.

I have an older F53 and am always looking at any issues people have that I may be able to prevent on mine.

[Stupac7]

Originally Posted by waiter21

I'm very curious as to exactly what they found and did to fix it.

I have an older F53 and am always looking at any issues people have that I may be able to prevent on mine.

The cause of the whole issue was a throttle that in all reality was most likely bad from Ford. There was a flat spot on a part that swiveled inside the throttle body. This caused the throttle motor to malfunction. That sent a signal or code to the computer that of course it isn't safe to drive with a malfunctioning throttle. Then to finish the whole situation he was still getting random codes but nothing was actually wrong so that indicated a bad wire. For some reason, which is truly unknown, there was a broken wire in the wire harness. So he found the bad wire, replaced that and we are back on the road again.

[Wattsworld]

Stupac7, I am still following your posts about your MH problems. I am glad they found the problem to get you back on the road again. It is bad enough when things wear out that you have to worry about things breaking too.
Now hopefully you can find the magic wire or switch to fix your air conditioner to get it to run again.
Does the air conditioner you are having problems with make any noise when you turn it on? Compressor running, humming, or fan running? Try turning on fan to continuous.
Is thermostat set low enough that air conditioner would come on?
Are you plugged into a 50 amp circuit? Plugging into a 30 amp circuit may not let both air conditioners run at the same time.
If you are using the generator and trying to run the air conditioner make sure the affected air conditioner has power. Check circuit / fuse panel to make sure none are blown.
Pull the cover off of the generator to check the two toggle switches on the upper left hand side. They look somewhat like a circuit breaker. Are both on? Road vibration has been know to cause them to trip sometimes.
If you haven't plugged into a 50 amp circuit to try out the air conditioner then that is one thing I would do before writing the air conditioner off. Most camp grounds have 50 amp service.
The books I have on my air conditioners don't give any reasons why they aren't working.
It is strange that the air would work one time and not the next. In my back yard experience, most times an air conditioner will run or make a noise. It might not cool but does make some kind of noise or fan runs, just no cold out put.
You can use the Georgetown Library and look through the information about Air conditioners that is there.
Also Google search is another good tool.
Remember to post what you find so that it might help the next person.
Good luck in finding your problem.

[Stupac7]

Originally Posted by Wattsworld

Stupac7, I am still following your posts about your MH problems. I am glad they found the problem to get you back on the road again. It is bad enough when things wear out that you have to worry about things breaking too.
Now hopefully you can find the magic wire or switch to fix your air conditioner to get it to run again.
Does the air conditioner you are having problems with make any noise when you turn it on? Compressor running, humming, or fan running? Try turning on fan to continuous.
Is thermostat set low enough that air conditioner would come on?
Are you plugged into a 50 amp circuit? Plugging into a 30 amp circuit may not let both air conditioners run at the same time.
If you are using the generator and trying to run the air conditioner make sure the affected air conditioner has power. Check circuit / fuse panel to make sure none are blown.
Pull the cover off of the generator to check the two toggle switches on the upper left hand side. They look somewhat like a circuit breaker. Are both on? Road vibration has been know to cause them to trip sometimes.
If you haven't plugged into a 50 amp circuit to try out the air conditioner then that is one thing I would do before writing the air conditioner off. Most camp grounds have 50 amp service.
The books I have on my air conditioners don't give any reasons why they aren't working.
It is strange that the air would work one time and not the next. In my back yard experience, most times an air conditioner will run or make a noise. It might not cool but does make some kind of noise or fan runs, just no cold out put.
You can use the Georgetown Library and look through the information about Air conditioners that is there.
Also Google search is another good tool.
Remember to post what you find so that it might help the next person.
Good luck in finding your problem.

I have tried all the above except plugging into a 50 amp service at a camp ground.

I have been to three camp grounds here in Wisconsin and the upper peninsula in Michigan none of them had as 50 amp service

Both fans run on the AC unit that doesn't cool, I hear a hum or ticking sound from the compressor. The only thing I find a little off is the lines. The line that should be cold isn't and the line that should be warm or hot isn't.

So, my back yard HVAC degree tells me this is most likely low refrigerant or bad compressor.

I would think that when I run my 6500 Guardian generator from Generac. Then only run the unit that isn't working it should have enough power.

I am just starting to think a new unit is in my near future.

[Wattsworld]

It sounds like you have done all the checks. I have added coolant to air conditioners before and it isn't hard. Problem is if you have to pay for someone to do it, then it gets up there in price.
I was really hoping that you would find it was something simple to fix it.
What ever the out come, give the RV a chance to make you happy with some camping.
Good luck with what ever you do.

[Stupac7]

Originally Posted by Wattsworld

It sounds like you have done all the checks. I have added coolant to air conditioners before and it isn't hard. Problem is if you have to pay for someone to do it, then it gets up there in price.
I was really hoping that you would find it was something simple to fix it.
What ever the out come, give the RV a chance to make you happy with some camping.
Good luck with what ever you do.

Continued adventure. After the repair on my 2006 George Town, all seamed good driving on the way to sister in laws home about a 69 mile trip. Set up and stayed for two nights and everything worked fine except the one AC unit that doesn't work. Was getting ready to leave and needed fuel since I hadn't filled up since my repair job. All seamed well, added 40 gal. at the local Kwik Trip. Drove about 5 miles, and stopped. Then it hasn't run right since. When I slow down to turn, or stop the engine doesn't idle, sputters, and dies. It will start right up again, and I can keeps the RPM.'s up. If I let it slow down, it will once again sputter and die. Thought it might be bad gas. I added three bottles of "Heat" and one bottle of "Seafoam". Still not running at slow idle. I was able to get it going at highway speed and traveled about 4 hours to get home. Still not running at slow idle, even after all those miles.

Any ideas?

[Paul S.]

Any Codes? If not it sounds like a vacuum leak. I also have a Generac 6500 on my 2008 and I can run both of my a/c units at the same time.

[Stupac7]

Originally Posted by Paul S.

Any Codes? If not it sounds like a vacuum leak. I also have a Generac 6500 on my 2008 and I can run both of my a/c units at the same time.

I have a simple OBD reader and it did not read any codes. I changed out the fuel filter. No change still dies at low RPM. When I first filled with gas the generator would not start either. Now the generator will start and run fine. If this is a vacuum leak, is there anything I can do without a mechanic?

Other topic: I called the nearest Dometic because my refrig is listed on the recall list. So call one sent to the message box. Left message. No call back. I called again. The service manager said he will check to make sure they have the parts and call me right back. No call back after. About 2 hours. Of course I can't drive to the service center right now, the unit will not drive.

I am suppose to get a call back from the guy who did my throttle controller work this afternoon. "Have fun go RVing." Ya right, after I spend weeks waiting for all the repairs and I have to go back to work?

[Paul S.]

If the mechanic was working around the throttle body he could have knocked loose a vacumm hose in the area. You can take the floor up to gain access to the top of the engine to have a look see. Or maybe he didn't tighten the throttle body down and you have a leak in that area.

[Stupac7]

Originally Posted by Stupac7

I have a simple OBD reader and it did not read any codes. I changed out the fuel filter. No change still dies at low RPM. When I first filled with gas the generator would not start either. Now the generator will start and run fine. If this is a vacuum leak, is there anything I can do without a mechanic?

Other topic: I called the nearest Dometic because my refrig is listed on the recall list. So call one sent to the message box. Left message. No call back. I called again. The service manager said he will check to make sure they have the parts and call me right back. No call back after. About 2 hours. Of course I can't drive to the service center right now, the unit will not drive.

I am suppose to get a call back from the guy who did my throttle controller work this afternoon. "Have fun go RVing." Ya right, after I spend weeks waiting for all the repairs and I have to go back to work?

Well, I did get my Kenwood NSX892 firmware updated successfully. What to do. The RV Service Center near me didn't call back. What do I just try to limp into their lot and leave it sit? I don't know if I even can get it there under it's own power.

My Dometic fridge is on recall list.
I have one non-functioning Dometic DuoTherm AC unit.
Engine will not idle. Starts runs a bit and dies.
One of my two Satellite Receivers keeps losing signal for no reason.

Those are the big ones. They just keep coming. "Lets go RVing". Maybe someday.

[Wattsworld]

Stupac7, Sorry to hear about your ongoing problems. I am pretty sure your MH isn't under warranty now. As far is taking it to an RV shop you might look at a Ford Dealer that will work on Large trucks. Some Ford Dealers can direct you in the right direction. If you have towing insurance they will tow it to the nearest service center. Since it is engine related, unless the service center is pretty good and works the mechanic's of a motorhome I would take it to the Ford Dealer or large truck shop that deals with Ford.
Like PaulS said, check the work that was done and make sure nothing was left loose.
Good Luck.