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Old 09-27-2021, 12:15 PM   #1
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"New" 2021.5 Georgetown GT7 36K

Hello!

I wanted to share my experience with a recent purchase of the 2021.5 Georgetown GT7 to help confirm a lot of the rumors regarding issues with production line problems and differences in features in the middle of the model year.

We ordered the 36K floorplan, and it so happened that one was delivered ahead of schedule and was on the lot. We inspected the rig before official delivery and noticed that the engine was the V8, the dash is the new design, and the antenna includes the Winegard LTE and Gateway installed. The Precision module also has bluetooth capabilities. I've read a few posts of some owners having different features (King Antenna, V10, etc), and I wanted to share our features to help piece together the mystery of "standard" equipment. The sticker shows assembly May 2021.

During our first day, the overhead bed would not work. After checking all the breakers and fuse box, I worked my way to the battery compartment and found that a 15AMP inline fuse had blown. On the same day, the front AC stopped working and the fireplace died. Upon further inspection, it was found that having both units on tripped the generator 30Amp breaker. The water tank area in the basement has an inline filter attached with no filter installed. The actual filter itself is installed with one screw and the other is hanging off. The outside handle by the entry door is cracked near the top screw, and the passenger side window does not completely close and latch no matter how hard you try. The net that prevents someone from falling off the overhead bed like humpty dumpty only has an attachment on the top left side. They forgot to install the knob of the right hand side.

On the second day, the living room slideout completely failed to extend. The motor sounded like it would if the battery were completely dead. After spending about 7 minutes slowly working it back in and out, I finally braced my back against the door and pushed one side with my foot while starting the slide. It evened out and extended. It seems that these things bind and go off angles often.

The rig is ABSOLUTELY gorgeous, and I am only listing all these things because there is definitely an issue with how fast they are assembling these things to meet customer demand. Things that you would think are pretty much common sense, you need to double check (like the washing machine connections that were not connected).

Has anyone had a similar experience or have any suggestions on other things I should check? I have to bring the rig back to the dealership to have these things corrected...
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Old 09-27-2021, 03:37 PM   #2
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2021.5 I see this term used all the time BUT since there are 12 months in a year a mid term model should be 2021.6 correct?

Curious minds want to know.

Jimbo
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Old 09-27-2021, 03:59 PM   #3
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Well, it was assembled in may so it’s a 2021.5. A 2021.6 would be assembled in June.
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Old 09-27-2021, 04:33 PM   #4
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I'd like to thank the OP for posting their experiences.

My thoughts -

The only really concerning issue to me is the slideout - and we don't know if this was a one time occurrence, a chronic problem, or caused by something else

Same with a blown fuse or tripped breakers - something caused them to blow/trip but again a one time occurrence or a chronic problem. We don't know. I've tripped breakers without knowing the root cause -.not common but it has happened to me.

The other issues are somewhat minor annoyances - shouldn't have been experienced but wouldn't be trip show stoppers.

If the OP could post a followup after the dealer gets a chance to address these issues that would be great.
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Old 09-27-2021, 04:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonidas View Post
Hello!

I wanted to share my experience with a recent purchase of the 2021.5 Georgetown GT7 to help confirm a lot of the rumors regarding issues with production line problems and differences in features in the middle of the model year.

We ordered the 36K floorplan, and it so happened that one was delivered ahead of schedule and was on the lot. We inspected the rig before official delivery and noticed that the engine was the V8, the dash is the new design, and the antenna includes the Winegard LTE and Gateway installed. The Precision module also has bluetooth capabilities. I've read a few posts of some owners having different features (King Antenna, V10, etc), and I wanted to share our features to help piece together the mystery of "standard" equipment. The sticker shows assembly May 2021.

During our first day, the overhead bed would not work. After checking all the breakers and fuse box, I worked my way to the battery compartment and found that a 15AMP inline fuse had blown. On the same day, the front AC stopped working and the fireplace died. Upon further inspection, it was found that having both units on tripped the generator 30Amp breaker. The water tank area in the basement has an inline filter attached with no filter installed. The actual filter itself is installed with one screw and the other is hanging off. The outside handle by the entry door is cracked near the top screw, and the passenger side window does not completely close and latch no matter how hard you try. The net that prevents someone from falling off the overhead bed like humpty dumpty only has an attachment on the top left side. They forgot to install the knob of the right hand side.

On the second day, the living room slideout completely failed to extend. The motor sounded like it would if the battery were completely dead. After spending about 7 minutes slowly working it back in and out, I finally braced my back against the door and pushed one side with my foot while starting the slide. It evened out and extended. It seems that these things bind and go off angles often.

The rig is ABSOLUTELY gorgeous, and I am only listing all these things because there is definitely an issue with how fast they are assembling these things to meet customer demand. Things that you would think are pretty much common sense, you need to double check (like the washing machine connections that were not connected).

Has anyone had a similar experience or have any suggestions on other things I should check? I have to bring the rig back to the dealership to have these things corrected...
Be careful if it’s going to the dealership………

You may forget what it looks like by the time you ever get it back.
I’m not kidding.
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Old 09-27-2021, 07:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonidaso
During our first day, the overhead bed would not work. After checking all the breakers and fuse box, I worked my way to the battery compartment and found that a 15AMP inline fuse had blown.
The installation manual is found here: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...cd-0001577.pdf

On page 9 it says it's supposed to be a 20 amp fuse, not a 15 amp fuse. You would not be the first person to find the wrong size fuse on that bed.

Quote:
On the same day, the front AC stopped working and the fireplace died. Upon further inspection, it was found that having both units on tripped the generator 30Amp breaker.
I gotta ask. Why did you have the fireplace, which is a 1,500 watt heater, and the air conditioner on at the same time?

In any event, the two together pull abut 25 amps so anything else that was on that breaker such as the water heater or the fridge could push the power draw past 30 amps.

Quote:
The water tank area in the basement has an inline filter attached with no filter installed.
Correct. You should have gotten the water filter separately. Also, the dealer never sanitizes the water system either.

HTH,

Ray
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Old 09-27-2021, 08:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jc4ut
2021.5 I see this term used all the time BUT since there are 12 months in a year a mid term model should be 2021.6 correct?

Curious minds want to know
Umm, wouldn't that mean that a year-end update would be known as 2021.11, which numerically is less than 2021.5

I actually asked an FR salesperson what was up with FR making their major model changes part way through the year and adding the ".5" designator, which does not show up on the title. His explanation actually made sense.

It has to do with the RVIA and the timing of the "no end customers" shows where just the dealers see the new models. And it's not just FR doing this.

The manufacturers need to get their improvements out but they cannot immediately obsolete the dealer stock. If the manufacturers called the improved models "2022" instead of "2021.5" then the dealers could be faced with customers not wanting their "2021" inventory or wanting big price cuts.

At least in the past.

He said that the industry knows it's a problem for the consumers and that practice and the timing of the major improvements is being changed to eliminate that ".5" confusion. I thought he said it was happening in 2022 but I could be wrong. Especially with all of the part supply problems almost everyone is just making incremental changes for the foreseeable future.

Ray
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Old 09-28-2021, 08:06 AM   #8
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Any suspension or handling improvements on .5 model? Would be really great if they were installed before I buy one.
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Old 09-28-2021, 01:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by tcrossan View Post
Any suspension or handling improvements on .5 model? Would be really great if they were installed before I buy one.
Georgetown does not off any "suspension or handling improvements". Ford did a great job on upgrading the front and rear sway bars on the new V8 chassis. They went from 1.5" to 2" sway bars front and rear, they also retuned the shocks and increased rear spring rates. In my option this was a much needed and the ride is night and day! Please, keep in mind ride and drivability is very subjective. I would take a few trips to see if you're comfortable before adding any aftermarket suspension or handling improvements. You might be surprised Hope this helps
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Old 09-28-2021, 08:05 PM   #10
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Thanks cdefrees, Good information.
I've seen some comments on other forums regarding shocks and steering stabilizers so its good to have a base of information.
You are appreciated on this forum.
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Old 09-30-2021, 04:19 AM   #11
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I've had the same issue with my 2011 Georgetown's living room slide. The slide can't be crooked when it's fully closed. On mine, the slide seal sticks to the side of the rig and locks the slide in so it won't extend. I use the same solution you found; an additional push with my legs while the switch is used to extend the slide.


Phil
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Old 09-30-2021, 08:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmsherman
The slide can't be crooked when it's fully closed.
The newer Georgetowns now use the SlimRack electric slide mechanism exclusively so your note reminded me of a "teaching moment":

To keep the SlimRack slide motors in sync perform this procedure periodically:

Once the slide is fully out or fully in, release that button and then press and hold the same button again. If the motors are in sync you'll hear a "whir click" briefly and you'll see the slide barely move. Once you hear the click from each motor release the button. Then do it one more time.

Don't worry, you cannot push the slide through the wall.

This needs done with the slide fully in and with the slide fully out but it does not matter which one you do first.

When my motors are starting to get out of sync the "whir" will last longer on one side and sometimes I hear a "whine" instead. Once you hear the "click" from each motor they're in sync.

If you do not hear the "click" after about five seconds and there is no noise or movement from the slide release the button. The "click" is not very loud and you probably missed it.

What does "periodically" mean? There is no harm in doing it every few slide operations. Just be certain to do it often enough that you don't see any problems like a crooked slide.

Quote:
On mine, the slide seal sticks to the side of the rig and locks the slide in so it won't extend.
Agreed. The one part of my coach that I always assure is very clean and polished are the sides of the slides. They are so glossy all the time that they can look clean but when you run your hand over them they feel gritty. That will cause the slide wiper seals to drag on the sides of the slide and slow it down. If the sides are really dirty then the slide seal can "chatter" and cause a very loud, horrendous screeching sound.

I've used just a damp paper towel to wipe the slide sides down, and also to wipe down both sides of the wiper seals (inside seal and outside seal).

When getting ready to leave some place after having been parked for a while I'll take a Swiffer mop and go over most of the slide sides.

I also wax the heck out of the slide sides. Once or twice a year, when the slides are in, I use a stepstool and wash the tops of each slide with a damp sponge and then apply wax. That's also a good time to get a damp rag under the top horizontal slide seal and to spray some seal conditioner on them.

Ray
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Old 09-30-2021, 08:36 PM   #13
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Thank You!

You guys are awesome!! Thank you for such quick responses - one of the best things I did once I made this purchase was to subscribe/register with this forum.

I plan on taking the rig to the dealership next week for servicing of the issues. The tech on the phone mentioned that he has been seeing just about every one of the new Class A's back in the shop regardless of manufacturer. He said that it sucks that the builds are such poor quality because of the speed in which they are assembled. He offered to have everything looked at and diagnosed in the same day because the issues were pretty common. He suspects an overloaded circuit and improper fuses.

Has anyone else had any issues with their Class A as a brand new purchase? Does anyone have any suggestions on areas I should inspect that would be a likely location for issues from the factory? I've found all kinds of broken staples and bits of metal and garbage in the different rooms, but nothing too crazy.
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Old 10-01-2021, 09:11 AM   #14
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It's all over the map because these are hand-built units.

Probably the biggest issue is actually with Ford. Within just a few thousand miles many people are having the rear sway bar bolts loosen up and sometimes fall out. The bolts may be loose, one may be missing, or even both bolts and the bracket on one side may be missing. That sway bar is that 2" thick "square U-shaped" bar near the rear differential. This definitely causes handling problems in winds and with passing trucks.

Another thing to keep an eye on is the bottom of each slide where the rollers track. Several people have had slide bottom damage due to the weight of the slide. FR has a fix where they insert a 1/8" stainless steel plate between the rollers and the slide bottom so the rollers run on the metal and not the slide bottom. I had to have them installed on mine while in warranty and I know people with later models have as well. If you see any damage or even a change in appearance, such as rippling in the paint when you look at the slide bottom obliquely, write it up.

Ray
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Old 10-01-2021, 09:15 AM   #15
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You've already accepted delivery so some of this is not applicable but it may still help, especially with warranty issues:

My thoughts on PDI's (pre-delivery inspection) and dealer responsiveness:

YOU MUST take control of the PDI process. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, RELY SOLELY ON THE DEALER PDI!

You must do your own. Dealer PDIs usually are cursory and maybe a few hours long because they have other things their people need to do.

What we did on our motorhome:

We took three full days to do our PDI. Our dealer was very accommodating because we told them in advance what we were going to do. My wife started at the back while I started at the front and we each worked to the other end.

The first day was on shore power and city water at the dealer. A major issue we found was that the bed slide was binding a bit. It would stick on one side briefly and then jump to catch up. The more we ran it, the more it bound up. That's unacceptable, even though the dealer said it was "normal". We later found where multiple screws and staples were sticking up too far from the bed platform's carpeting and causing the binding.

The second day was on generator, propane, and tank water at the dealer. Your first generator oil change is at 20 hours and yes, running it for six to eight hours during this day of the PDI will get you close to your first generator oil and filter change.  

The third day was to scrutinize the exterior, from the undercarriage to the roof, very, very closely. Remember, any dings, scratches, cracks, etc. that you report after you drive off the lot will be deemed to have occurred after you took delivery. Don't go there.

I probably spent a half-hour underneath and found wires hanging loose, a broken screw on a propane bracket, and hydraulic lines rubbing. Take a lot of pictures so you'll know how things looked when new. Climbing up the ladder I saw a large jagged gouge in the rear cap. It appeared someone had come down the ladder with a tool in their pocket or something.

Yes, we found many things the dealer missed and they were OK with that because we did their job for them.

- DO NOT ACCEPT DELIVERY AND THE TITLE UNTIL every problem is either fixed or until you know when and how a problem will be repaired. We left ours at the dealer for a full month until most things were repaired.

Once you make the final payment to the dealer the warranty starts.

Your initial goal is to get as much as possible resolved before the warranty clock starts. That gives more time for other things to break while under warranty.

- DO NOT schedule a trip immediately, before PDI defect repairs are completed, thinking you'll check more things over on your first trip and the dealer will have a more comprehensive list. That. Never. Works.

"GetItHome-itis" WILL cause you a LOT of grief as things go unresolved. It also can leave you stranded somewhere.

But once you have a post-repair delivery date, schedule a few days on the road because there is a lot that can only fail once you've actually used it a few times. We went to a local state park for three days. And then did it again.

- DO NOT LEAVE THE DEALER WITH ANY UNANSWERED QUESTIONS ON HOW A SYSTEM WORKS. You will regret it.

- During your PDI, turn EVERY screw gently and write up every one that will not fully tighten. We found several. Open every cabinet. Look behind the drawers with a flashlight to see if anything looks wrong. We had a drawer that needed pushed harder than the others to latch and it turned out the drawer was hitting on some wiring behind it. Literally, go through everything with the proverbial fine-toothed comb. And then do it again.

- Build your tool bag during your PDI and leave it in the motorhome. You'll need some S-tip screwdrivers for all of the square-headed screws on these things. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Read voraciously on various forums to learn about problems others have had and specifically look for them on yours, especially on this Georgetown forum: https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f16/ I found a lot of things common to others once I knew to look for them and I refused delivery until they were corrected.

- If the dealer tells you something like "They all work that way" and you think it's wrong, DO NOT ACCEPT THAT. Get it made right. Write it up repeatedly if you need to.

- When, not "if", the dealer says "We're waiting on Forest River to approve the warranty claim" or to send parts, whatever, IMMEDIATELY ask them for the claim number and other details. Tell them you will personally be calling the manufacturer the next day to find out what the delay is. Almost every time I did that the dealer's rep said "There's no need. We'll call them again today" and voila, by magic things moved faster. Once or twice they did tell me to call and said they hoped I had better luck. As the customer, I did.

- Run every appliance for a while when you're doing your PDI, not just on and off a few minutes later. We had an air conditioner that would trip a breaker after a few hours of operation. We found that on the second day of our PDI. We brought along a few clothes to test out the Splendide combo washer/dryer and it was fortunate we did. That thing vibrated so badly it shook the hold-down bracket off the wall.

- ALWAYS WRITE UP EVERYTHING, NO MATTER HOW MINOR. You are establishing a written history to help protect your interests in the future. If you have to repair something, WRITE IT UP and ask the dealer to double-check your work to assure it was done properly.

The goal is to get EVERYTHING, no matter how "minor", listed in the manufacturer's warranty system. Again, no matter how minor. One item I thought was very minor turned out to be major and required that the entire refrigerator be replaced.

- Take a LOT of pictures so there's no question about how something looked when new. Those pics will help you later if nothing else.

- ALWAYS re-report something that is still awaiting repair. DO NOT assume that the dealer is keeping track of those pending items.

- IMMEDIATELY REPORT ANY WATER LEAKS! If you call it in, follow-up with an immediate email so there is a written record of your contact. Many warranties only cover seals and similar for 90 days, not the full year.

If you see even a small dribble of water where it should not be, REPORT IT! Water is very destructive and you have no idea how long the problem has existed, just how long you've seen it.

- Provide the dealer with a good, written description of every issue and include pictures if applicable. Dealers almost always need to submit pictures with their warranty claims. Make them your pictures. Your goal is to enable them to duplicate the problem and to make it easy for them to do so. Step by step instructions on how to make something act up helps them a lot.

Over the first year, I had 98 pages of problems although a few were carryovers (not repaired on a previous service appointment for some reason). There were a lot of pictures in that 98 pages so it's not quite as bad as it seemed.  

I wrote everything up in Microsoft Word and kept every item in its own section with its own title so there was no doubt where one issue ended and another began. I then saved it as a PDF and emailed the PDF to the dealer about a week before our appointment.

Be certain to ask the service department if they passed your original write-up to the techs that will work on your unit. Ours would not so I ended up printing it out and leaving it on the dash when we dropped the unit off.

- Upon leaving a service appointment, ALWAYS schedule the next one so you'll have a slot. There are months-long delays at dealer service centers and your goal is to jump to the head of the line on your timetable.

YOU must be your own advocate. Be persistent but not rude or disrespectful but don't let them ignore you or walk on you. If that happens it's OK to get a bit upset.  

Good luck!

Ray
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Old 10-01-2021, 09:40 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NXR View Post
It's all over the map because these are hand-built units.

Probably the biggest issue is actually with Ford. Within just a few thousand miles many people are having the rear sway bar bolts loosen up and sometimes fall out. The bolts may be loose, one may be missing, or even both bolts and the bracket on one side may be missing. That sway bar is that 2" thick "square U-shaped" bar near the rear differential. This definitely causes handling problems in winds and with passing trucks.

Another thing to keep an eye on is the bottom of each slide where the rollers track. Several people have had slide bottom damage due to the weight of the slide. FR has a fix where they insert a 1/8" stainless steel plate between the rollers and the slide bottom so the rollers run on the metal and not the slide bottom. I had to have them installed on mine while in warranty and I know people with later models have as well. If you see any damage or even a change in appearance, such as rippling in the paint when you look at the slide bottom obliquely, write it up.

Ray
Ray,

Thank you so much for this information!! All of this is super helpful.
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