Norcold 2118 absorption refrigerator - convert to compressor type

[DocP]

My 2019 Georgetown 31L5 has a Norcold 2118X 18-cubic-foot absorption (gas/electric) refrigerator. It has issues keeping decent refrigerator and freeze temperatures, especially with the hot summer temperatures. I have installed supplemental interior and exterior fans but am still disappointed in the results.


I have been researching the heck out of doing a conversion to a HVAC compressor system – specifically, through JR Refrigeration. I never boondock, so I’m not at all concerned about giving up the propane option. I simply want to maintain safe and consistent temperatures in the refrigerator and freezer!


I have been reading on numerous camping forums about JC Refrigeration’s AC and DC HVAC compressor systems and am asking for some opinions from the group about the advantages/disadvantages of each type (i.e., AC versus DC). My Georgetown does have a 2000-watt Xantrex 807-2000 inverter and I have 2 Renogy deep cycle AGM 12 volt 100Ah coach batteries. I only have a 50-watt roof-mounted solar panel to trickle charge the coach batteries while in storage.


Given this information, could I please solicit some discussion/recommendation for going with either the AC or DC HVAC conversion kit from JR Refrigeration. Thanks in advance!


Additional information: The 12V DC system uses 11.6 amps at 12V (139 watts) and the 120V unit uses 3 amps at 120V (360 watts).

[newer]

Originally Posted by DocP

My 2019 Georgetown 31L5 has a Norcold 2118X 18-cubic-foot absorption (gas/electric) refrigerator. It has issues keeping decent refrigerator and freeze temperatures, especially with the hot summer temperatures. I have installed supplemental interior and exterior fans but am still disappointed in the results.


I have been researching the heck out of doing a conversion to a HVAC compressor system – specifically, through JR Refrigeration. I never boondock, so I’m not at all concerned about giving up the propane option. I simply want to maintain safe and consistent temperatures in the refrigerator and freezer!


I have been reading on numerous camping forums about JC Refrigeration’s AC and DC HVAC compressor systems and am asking for some opinions from the group about the advantages/disadvantages of each type (i.e., AC versus DC). My Georgetown does have a 2000-watt Xantrex 807-2000 inverter and I have 2 Renogy deep cycle AGM 12 volt 100Ah coach batteries. I only have a 50-watt roof-mounted solar panel to trickle charge the coach batteries while in storage.


Given this information, could I please solicit some discussion/recommendation for going with either the AC or DC HVAC conversion kit from JR Refrigeration. Thanks in advance!


Additional information: The 12V DC system uses 11.6 amps at 12V (139 watts) and the 120V unit uses 3 amps at 120V (360 watts).

Your problem like many assembly items at FR is atrocious! If your system is like my ?8 or 10 cuft model, I literally reinstalled the area behind the 2 vents, specially the upper one. There were so many air leaks, the results were what you are experiencing. I removed the upper wall behind the vent and replaced it with 1/8" plywood completely sealing except for the area required to allow heat escape- small opening is all that is necessary. I also installed a 5" computer fan with a manual on off switch inside to add additional air flow. My freezer freezes and refrigerator cooks. 0 and 34 respectively.

[tomkatb]

While at Amish Family rv we had our system upgraded as newer did while they were installing new axles.

We have the plywood, two computer fans and a larger squirrel cage fan which we typically just leave on.

Our 13 cu ft fridge is a pain in the rear to close the doors. Must be just right or cold escapes.

If the rv is out of level the doors are an issue.

[DocP]

Originally Posted by newer

Your problem like many assembly items at FR is atrocious! If your system is like my ?8 or 10 cuft model, I literally reinstalled the area behind the 2 vents, specially the upper one. There were so many air leaks, the results were what you are experiencing. I removed the upper wall behind the vent and replaced it with 1/8" plywood completely sealing except for the area required to allow heat escape- small opening is all that is necessary. I also installed a 5" computer fan with a manual on off switch inside to add additional air flow. My freezer freezes and refrigerator cooks. 0 and 34 respectively.

Thanks for the advice and pictures!!!