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Old 07-03-2017, 12:20 PM   #1
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Opinions on anti-sway bars

I am asking for people's opinions on the type of anti sway bars that you have added to you coach.
How easy were they to install, brand you bought and how much of a ride improvement did you get?
What I have found are replacements with larger bars and some you add to the existing rear bar so you end up with 2 bars.
I have a 2013 Georgetown 378XL, 24,000# chassis.
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Old 07-04-2017, 12:49 PM   #2
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On my previous mh which handled awful I had a road master sway bar and a Henderson trak bar installed. Experienced a dramatic improvement (80%) in stability. At 55 you started to white knuckle, after improvement could comfortably drive 70 to 75.
Now have a new 369xl which handles ok with factory equipment but am still going to install the same upgrades. I want to take my trips relaxed and not worn out by the time I get to my destinations.
Hope this helps.
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Old 07-04-2017, 02:04 PM   #3
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opinon on sway bars

Prior to my new Georgetown 31L I had a 2013 Forester Class C 3011. It was a beast to drive. It took a wheel alignment, a rear sway bar, and a safe t steer for the front, Finally got a manageable driving experience. So far, I have only driven the Georgetown from the dealer to home a distance of approximately 10 miles. I had the fight that bad boy all the way. I am going tor the wheel alignment first and see if that is sufficient to control the beast. If not I can see thousands of dollars flying away to achieve a safe and comfortable drive. I be looking for input from others who have had this same experience and what you used to correct this issue.

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Old 07-05-2017, 07:17 AM   #4
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We have a 378 and like the others we had a white knuckle drive, I added safe-t-steer and that was it. Drive all day at 65 to 70 and it's a relaxing drive. The factory rear stabilizer does well and we have never even considered the so called cheap handling fix of changing the front stabilizer bar to the other holes. My experience is we didn't need it. We are happy.
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:46 AM   #5
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Thank you I think the safe t steer will be my first mod
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Old 07-05-2017, 01:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campingtom View Post
Thank you I think the safe t steer will be my first mod
We have the safe t steer as well and it helps keep the coach from wanting to wander and damps the blow from passing trucks.
First thing I'd add after a good alignment and making sure tires are all inflated to spec for the loads...you may want to weigh the coach on each axle loaded for a trip as well.

Next addition IF I get annoyed enough will be the rear anti sway bar as in the right road circumstances it will wallow and roll a bit. Rare enough that I question the NEED for the investment...even though I know I'd get improvment.
Good luck to ya.
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Old 07-05-2017, 01:26 PM   #7
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I have a 2015 GT 364 and have tried it all with medium DIY skills (invested about $3,500): Front and rear Roadmaster anti-sway bars, steering stabilizer, wheel alignment, rear TruTrac tack bar, and Sumo Springs. With all of that, I call it a "modest" improvement. Almost constant steering input is much smaller but still necessary except on those rare truly level roads. The most noticeable change, was the Sumo Springs. BTW, front anti-sway bar is a piece of cake to install. Rears are not that difficult either but it is a two-man job due to the weight and the need to hold it in position while installing. Sumo Springs required drilling just one hole on each side - also a piece of cake. (Get a new carbon drill bit...you'll be glad you did). As so many have said, remember you are driving a sideways billboard that moves with the slightest crosswind or passing semi-truck.
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Old 07-05-2017, 01:35 PM   #8
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If you're on the F53 chassis, If you haven't done so yet, I'd do the Cheap Handling Fix (CHF) first, then re-evaluate the need for any additional equipment.

The factory front and rear torsion bars have two adjustment positions. The chassis leaves the factory with the links bolted in the forward, loose position.

The CHF simply adjusts the existing torsion bar setting (sway bar) by re-positioning the links that attach the torsion bar to the frame. The links are moved to the rear most, firm position,.

ALSO - On newer F53s (2006 and up), keep an eye on the rear sway bar axle brackets, These have a habit of bolts falling out and bending/breaking the attach points.

Over the past few years, I've owned two F53 based MHs, After doing the CHF, I was amazed at how much this simple adjust improved the handling and decided to not purchase any aftermarket equipment..

http://www.2001mirada.com/cheap-hand...and-then-some/


CHF – Cheap Handling Fix – Fix for sway and handling – 1999 Southwind 35S

..
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Old 07-05-2017, 10:15 PM   #9
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When I got the gt in 2012 I did an alignment and a front chf. Results were outstanding so I never went to the bank for more funds. 35k on the clock and I can one hand her at 75mph!!!
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Old 07-06-2017, 04:59 AM   #10
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I would at least try the Cheap Handing Fix before investing money.
The results were amazing on my MH and I have never done anything else.
It is easy to do and can easily be reversed if you are not satisfied.
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Old 07-06-2017, 08:26 AM   #11
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We have a 2016 364ts. It's a tough dude. We realigned it, installed Safety T steering stabilizer and that has helped. I believe our issue is the length added in the model and how much overhangs the rear axle. We keep our weight between the front and rear axles but it still feels like a bucking bronco at times. I just don't drive fast. And if it's windy I just pulled over. Now we're getting ready to pull a toad and that ought to be quite the experience. Anyone else's thoughts about the amount overhanging rear axle?
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:28 PM   #12
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I have the GT XL 352QS, gross weight 24,000# max load at #30,000. Bought it new with no modification when I left the dealer in Dallas almost a year ago. It is a nice coach but the drive was not as fun as I thought before I bought the coach. This is my first ever of any type of RV/coach. The biggest that I have ever owned and still have it is the full-size custom van which sometimes got kick around a little on the freeway when passing any 18 wheelers due to the large side panel of the van.

The white knuckle driving to me is caused by the length of the coach's overhang behind the rear axle, as well as the large and almost perfectly square wall, and last but not least, the ground clearance of the coach is quite high, which results in a higher center gravity. On top of all of this, the weight distribution of the coach put most of the weight toward the rear axle that would make the front end lighter and this would make the coach harder to control if we are driving against the wind or if the wind came from anywhere between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock.

When you add the tow to the rear of the coach, the wind load on your toad would also add the additional swing to the rear hitch which in turn would add more swing to the rear of the coach. At this time, using the rear axle as the pivot point, it would multiply the swing toward the front axle which in turn, you would have more difficult to control the coach.

That said, I had spent few thousand bucks extra for the following:
1 - Blu Ox True Center Steering Stabilizer
2 - Change out the factory front Sway Bar to Blu Ox heavier sway bar
3 - Add the Road Master rear sway bar to the rear axle and still keep the factory rear sway bar in place (Blu Ox does not have the appropriate sway bar mounting kit for my coach).
4 - Adding the Blu Ox towing system for my toad.
5 - Blu Ox Patriot II newest model for my toad braking.

Combined all of the above cost me around +/- $6,000.

With a good set of towing apparatus and an additional rear sway bar like what I did mentioned above, the coach seems to behave much better under toad.

Even with all of that, during the windy days, at 60-65 mph, I still have to fight with the wind. The nice thing about the Blu Ox True Center Steering Stabilizer is I could push a button, it would instantly realign my steering support so I have less than white knuckle, but it nowhere near fun driving on the windy days.

However, without or low-speed wind, the coach ran really great, tracked perfectly. On some section of the highway, flat, with the toad, I did accidentally rev the coach to as much as 75 mph before realized it because it ran so smooth. I felt like driving my small car. Of course, I slow back down to my normal speed at 60-65mph as soon as realize it.

The bottom line is, I could not imagine what my driving would be if I have not upgraded the coach. It did not only add more pleasure to the driving for the most part except the on the very windy days, it also adds more safety to me and everyone who rode with me.

Before did the upgrade, I normally drove about 6 hours or 300 miles per day max. After the upgrade, I just did a 4000 miles trip over 2 months, and there were three days that I did over 12 hours of driving and over 600 miles for each of that day, and I did not even feel tired. I did so because the coach behaved so well and makes me feel like keep driving. I stop because I did not want to drive in the dark, otherwise, I could keep driving.

Hope that experience would help you to decide on your upgrade.

Have fun.



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Old 07-07-2017, 12:34 AM   #13
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My 364TS is completely stock. Put front tires about 90 psi. Just pulled my F150 1,000 miles or so up to 70mph in modest winds no problem.

At first when driving I noticed the need for more input than say driving a truck, but after 8,500 miles am used to it. Really don't see the need on my particular set up to spend money...think time behind the wheel is the best fix. I do slow down to 55 or so when strong winds hit. Also I find the toad helps to actually reduce felt wind and sway...it's like an anchor for the back end to the road if that makes sense.

It's my first MH so nothing to compare it to...
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