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Old 06-21-2021, 05:14 PM   #21
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The radiator fins don't need cleaning, do they? That often is missed.

Ray
Also the area between A/C condenser and Radiator fins. I've seen mud built in this area as high as 6", also leaves and road trash.
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Old 06-21-2021, 05:16 PM   #22
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I would think if the fins were blocked it would manifest in normal driving.
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Old 06-21-2021, 05:31 PM   #23
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I would think if the fins were blocked it would manifest in normal driving.
Heavy pulls uphill use up any reserve a cooling system may have and normal driving is rarely a problem unless the radiator is badly plugged (inside or out).

Motorhomes can be especially problematic as air flow is often far more restricted around the engine and exiting the compartment than in most truck configurations.
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Old 06-21-2021, 05:37 PM   #24
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some quick questions did it ever overheat before pulling same load same hill.

It is actually overheating? 225 for example is fine 260 and spilling over is not fine.

When you go up a hill your obviously increasing the heat load especially if you continue to press the go pedal. Additionally your probably loosing speed which is loosing airflow over the radiator. Can you back out of it a little? You should notice that 18 wheelers have to back out of it and those torqey diesels are way better going up hills then a gas engine.

I saw somebody say tune it and that is the worst thing to do. Adding power is adding more heat as you didn't increase the efficiency of the motor by an appreciable amount.

Clean entire radiator stack with Simple Green and then just a regular hose. It is helpful if you can pull one of them out or at least seperate them to get a better cleaning. Does the engine have a fan shroud? Is it intact?

What type of fan does it have a constant fan or a clutch fan? If clutch fan replace along with thermostat. It is imperative that if it has a fan clutch that it is working as it helps to move more air at higher rpms as you are slowing down up hill and loosing air across the radiator.

Do a pressure test just to double check if it doesn't have headgasket problems.
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Old 06-21-2021, 06:09 PM   #25
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Good posts.
I like the thermostat and fan clutch ideas.
A good tuner will have a tow mode. It will advance the timing a little. You can also adjust the shift points and stay in gear longer before shifting up.
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Old 06-21-2021, 06:19 PM   #26
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Somewhere should be the manufacturers tag, but I am not familiar with current motorhomes. However, Ford supplied pretty much one chassis and engine for motorhomes, only the lengths were different.

The engine is a 6.8L V10, so Thermostat and Fan Clutch for a 2006 Ford 6.8 V 10 would be what they need. Your best bet is a Napa store for being able to get the correct part, the yocals at some of these other chains parts stores don't know a spark plug from a glow plug, or even how to spell glow plug let alone look one up.

Here is a lookup to help

2006 Ford Truck F53 6.8L MFI SOHC 10cyl

Thermostat
THM SS1956527

This is a 195* T-stat for the Ford 6.8 V10, THM SS1806527 is the 180 T-stat.

Stock is 195*

I was a bit off on the price of the fan clutch, I looked at general prices.

The fan clutch is

TEM 281668

The T-stat is ~$20 and the fan clutch $117.

One other possibility though not mentioned is the water pump. Over time the fins in the pump can wear down, reducing the flow of coolant. A Competent mechanic, IE a REAL Mechanic, not some tech who reads codes and calls support, should be able to diagnose if the water pump is failing. A failing pump can exhibit the same symptoms you described by keeping up at normal loads, but not under increased loads.
Bhrava is on the right track.
Parts will be readily at most all major part houses. If I missed the mileage I apologize, but if you are going to go through the hassle of changing the t-stat, and or fan clutch, replace the belt and the tensioner, along with the water pump. If they are original it's time.
My wife's F150 had an issue pulling the boat, new radiator, fan clutch, belt, thermostat (to date I have never seen one fail) Finally replaced the water pump. Didn't suspect it initially because it was not leaking. When I removed it, the vanes were non existent! With all of the other stuff off replacing the water pump isn't bad.
Now the 800# gorilla in the room: does it loose coolant in normal driving? IE not pulling grades? It may not overheat, but the reservoir will be lower than when you started. If so, I'd suspect a head gasket.
A good shop will be able to put a tester on the radiator and "sniff" the coolant for combustion contamination.
A quick search show's water pumps for $114 and in stock at our local auto zone.
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Old 06-21-2021, 08:04 PM   #27
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Motorhomes can be especially problematic as air flow is often far more restricted around the engine and exiting the compartment than in most truck configurations.
Exactly why I would think a blocked radiator would manifest itself in normal driving, and don't consider it the main cause. Contributing factor though, yes. Won't hurt to flush the fins.

I forgot the head gasket route, but doubt it would be the cause only because the load it is under going up a grade would increase the issue exponentially and would show up in the oil. If the op has not checked the oil, do so, if it looks normal, head gasket can be put to the bottom of the list. The extreme pressures going up hill would surely pull coolant into the oil.

However, if a Mechanic is on his toes, a combustion gas test would be top of the list.

I think the right track is a full cooling system maintenance, especially considering the age. The vanes on the water pump can deteriorate over time which leads to the same overheating issues. Just because it isn't leaking, doesn't mean it is still OK.
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Old 06-21-2021, 10:07 PM   #28
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Exactly why I would think a blocked radiator would manifest itself in normal driving, and don't consider it the main cause. Contributing factor though, yes. Won't hurt to flush the fins.

I forgot the head gasket route, but doubt it would be the cause only because the load it is under going up a grade would increase the issue exponentially and would show up in the oil. If the op has not checked the oil, do so, if it looks normal, head gasket can be put to the bottom of the list. The extreme pressures going up hill would surely pull coolant into the oil.

However, if a Mechanic is on his toes, a combustion gas test would be top of the list.

I think the right track is a full cooling system maintenance, especially considering the age. The vanes on the water pump can deteriorate over time which leads to the same overheating issues. Just because it isn't leaking, doesn't mean it is still OK.
I wouldn't rule out a possible head gasket if I didn't see an indication in the oil. It is quite possible to blow into the combustion chamber and not make the oil. Ask any Range Rover P38 owner!
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Old 06-22-2021, 09:10 AM   #29
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I wouldn't rule out a possible head gasket if I didn't see an indication in the oil. It is quite possible to blow into the combustion chamber and not make the oil. Ask any Range Rover P38 owner!
I've worked on a lot of cars with blown head gaskets, and they all show signs at some point regardless of speed and load. The fact the engine is OK at highway speeds towing something, but manifests when under extreme load, while doesn't completely rule out a head gasket, does put it down low on the list. The V-10 will exhibit overheating quickly with a blown gasket in just normal driving. That and if it is blowing into the coolant, at some point coolant will get into the cylinder too.

One other thing to consider, a blown gasket will raise coolant pressures, but not the coolant temps. It's the pumping of exhaust gasses into the jacket that causes the pressure cap to release coolant, but the temperature gauge will show normal temps. The op said that the temps climb, so another reason I least suspect a head gasket.

According to the reported symptoms, it sounds like either the fan clutch or the water pump is the cause. Both are 15 years old by now.
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Old 06-22-2021, 09:53 AM   #30
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I've worked on a lot of cars with blown head gaskets, and they all show signs at some point regardless of speed and load. The fact the engine is OK at highway speeds towing something, but manifests when under extreme load, while doesn't completely rule out a head gasket, does put it down low on the list. The V-10 will exhibit overheating quickly with a blown gasket in just normal driving. That and if it is blowing into the coolant, at some point coolant will get into the cylinder too.

One other thing to consider, a blown gasket will raise coolant pressures, but not the coolant temps. It's the pumping of exhaust gasses into the jacket that causes the pressure cap to release coolant, but the temperature gauge will show normal temps. The op said that the temps climb, so another reason I least suspect a head gasket.

According to the reported symptoms, it sounds like either the fan clutch or the water pump is the cause. Both are 15 years old by now.
I slacked on the coolant pressure! You are quite correct.
End of the day, if your in there replacing parts, and have the means, do them all and be done for another 15.
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Old 06-22-2021, 10:06 AM   #31
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I slacked on the coolant pressure! You are quite correct.
End of the day, if your in there replacing parts, and have the means, do them all and be done for another 15.
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Old 06-22-2021, 10:29 AM   #32
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After listening to many fellow owners I see some good advice and some well lets just say not so good advice.

Start with a thermostat, fan clutch. Take the radiator out to a shop and have it flow tested. Washing out the fins is a start but if it has some internal clogging this will show up under extreme conditions. 15 years old for a radiator, might be time for a new one as technology has improved and usually more cooling tubes can be added.
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Old 06-22-2021, 07:32 PM   #33
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Being an 06 I would start with a T-stat and fan clutch. While in there I would replace the hoses and belt. If it’s still running hot then a radiator may be next. How many miles?
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Old 06-22-2021, 08:06 PM   #34
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Radiator hoses that old can be suspect.

When hot the failing hoses get soft. Often one can collapse under serious loads. Limits flow to the block. Lower. Get the system hot. Put a glove on and check it.

Is all of the radiator shroud in place.

Water cools better than antifreeze. Make sure you have the right mix in the radiator. No extra antifreeze. More is not better. Read the directions.

Turning the heater on helps to cool the engine. A not working well heater indicates crud in the system. Heater cores are usually awful to remove and replace. But, cheap!

Removing the thermostat is a bad idea. Use the correct one. Just replace it.

Water wetter helps a little.
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Old 06-22-2021, 10:10 PM   #35
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Another vote for changing the thermostat, after you verify that the radiator isn't blocked or blocked between the AC condenser and radiator. Shine a flashlight through it to verify that it's clear.
It's not uncommon for a thermostat to lose it's charge instead of the mechanical linkage failing. When this happens they only open partially, which may be fine around town, but not open enough for those hills.
Regarding the fan clutch, if you don't hear a distinctive roar when it comes on going up a hill, it may not be operating correctly. Those Ford clutches kick in all at once just like an electric fan coming on. Very obvious when it happens. That said, over 30MPH, airflow over the radiator is more than what the cooling fan can provide anyway.

An infrared thermometer is a huge help diagnosing a hot engine. If the radiator inlet and outlets aren't showing a good temp drop, coolant isn't circulation adequately.
Keep in mind that the mechanic isn't seeing it in it's overheated state. You'll need to help him out a little with some checking of your own.
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Old 06-23-2021, 10:00 AM   #36
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I have a 2006 Georgetown 34 town a saturn when I large montain or hill my tranny downshifts a cople of gears and my tack will go over 5 grand mine never over heats. do you use tow hold button ? Yes it is noisy while going u hill motor is screaming for sure.
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Old 06-28-2021, 06:24 PM   #37
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Well my dad back in the day would roll his windows down and turn the heater on when his truck started over heating.
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Old 06-28-2021, 09:27 PM   #38
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First thing I would do is take it to a GOOD auto mechanic who will troubleshoot the issue..it shouldn't be that difficult to pinpoint the problem...I would not just start replacing parts hoping to fix the issue (for the price of doing that you could get a good mechanic to troubleshoot it)...once the mechanic tells you what is wrong you can decide if you want to fix it yourself or have the mechanic do it...there are a few things you can do at no cost such as cleaning the radiator (and the space between the various radiators) and test to see if the issue gets ANY better going up hills with the heat running or a/c off...but I definitely would not just start tossing money/parts at it.
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Old 06-28-2021, 10:18 PM   #39
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Overheating going uphill

You didn't say how many miles u have on your 2006,I ask because you May still have a problem with your radiator.
My guess is that your FAN CLUTCH maybe slipping and when the system need xtra cooling the fan clutch doesn't perform like it shoud.
If the fan clutch is working properly u should be able to hear a roar when it kicks in.
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Old 06-29-2021, 11:05 AM   #40
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Post #34.
I have seen old radiator hoses collapse under high-RPM operation, AKA engine loads. The intake hoses get soft as they age, and can collapse, squeezing the water pump intake coolant source going into the block. Squeeze them when cold, then go to the auto parts store and squeeze a new one. You may see a flash of enlightenment.
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