Propane stopped flowing after an hour.

[concours14]

We are taking a weekend trip tomorrow after not using our MH (11' Georgetown 350TS) since December. I opened the propane valve, got the stove top burners on then the oven. Turned them off then got the water heater up and running. Then I turned on the fridge using gas only. Saw the flame and went on my way. Checked on the fridge about 4 hours later and no cooling. Tried to light the stove no gas. Have about 2/3 of a tank. I shut off the thank for 10 min and reopened it. I can light 1burner and it will go out in about 4 seconds and then no gas flow. I tried several times but same results. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

[Pooneil]

Check to make sure the tiny hole in the regulator is unobstructed. If it is obstructed, clear the debris. If it isn't replace the regulator.

[KyDan]

I believe that newer coaches have a safety valve that is connected to
the LP gas detector in the coach.
There have been folks here who had problems with that going bad and
stopping their LP.
I have no experience with that but hopefully others will step up with some
good info for you!

Good luck!

[Lostdog]

Originally Posted by KyDan

I believe that newer coaches have a safety valve that is connected to
the LP gas detector in the coach.
There have been folks here who had problems with that going bad and
stopping their LP.
I have no experience with that but hopefully others will step up with some
good info for you!

Good luck!

X2 Don't ask how I know!

[concours14]

I was thinking about the safety valve but am unsure of how to test it other than cracking open the line aft of the switch. I do know the switch is receiving 12V of power and is warm to the touch (which is always has been in the past). Has anyone ever tested one before. Luckily I will be near an RV parts store so I will probably by a regulator and switch if the price is cheaper than my deducible and gas money to the dealer ($75 + $85 and an hour drive each way). Thanks for the suggestions after I get the kids to school I will go and test the flow after the regulator and the switch.

[Trempert]

Originally Posted by concours14

I was thinking about the safety valve but am unsure of how to test it other than cracking open the line aft of the switch. I do know the switch is receiving 12V of power and is warm to the touch (which is always has been in the past). Has anyone ever tested one before. Luckily I will be near an RV parts store so I will probably by a regulator and switch if the price is cheaper than my deducible and gas money to the dealer ($75 + $85 and an hour drive each way). Thanks for the suggestions after I get the kids to school I will go and test the flow after the regulator and the switch.

I had the same problem. First, if the safety switch is warm to the touch, it's probably working. You can take it apart and test it (you can see the solenoid operate the valve), but I had the exact same problem and it was the safety check valve prior to the safety switch. If you look between the "faucet" valve and the "warm to the touch" safety switch, you'll see a fitting that you can remove. Inside there is a little plastic ball and spring. Mine was bad. Because I was going camping and couldn't get it to the dealer for a couple weeks, I pulled the ball and spring out and re-installed the check valve (no longer a check valve! ) and it worked.

Something else to remember....if you use the disconnect switch, the propane detector will take 3-5 minutes to re-engage and open the valve after turning on the disconnect switch. You will see a blinking green light on the detector while it is setting up. Until you see a solid green light, you will not get gas.

[mogman]

We had the LP gas detector go bad. I sent it back to the manf and they sent me a new kit.
The sol valve was OK so I just bypassed the detector wiring when it was out of the coach. I had to pay for the new detector--- out of warranty. I have a brand new solenoid valve extra if anyone needs one. If you follow the wires for the sol valve you can hear it click when they are disconnected.

[awwall]

Originally Posted by Trempert

I had the same problem. First, if the safety switch is warm to the touch, it's probably working. You can take it apart and test it (you can see the solenoid operate the valve), but I had the exact same problem and it was the safety check valve prior to the safety switch. If you look between the "faucet" valve and the "warm to the touch" safety switch, you'll see a fitting that you can remove. Inside there is a little plastic ball and spring. Mine was bad. Because I was going camping and couldn't get it to the dealer for a couple weeks, I pulled the ball and spring out and re-installed the check valve (no longer a check valve! ) and it worked.

Something else to remember....if you use the disconnect switch, the propane detector will take 3-5 minutes to re-engage and open the valve after turning on the disconnect switch. You will see a blinking green light on the detector while it is setting up. Until you see a solid green light, you will not get gas.

Good point Tim. I was at my local propane dealer yesterday and he showed me a box full of defective safety flow plugs. These were from hoses that go on a 30 lb bottle. He said it is incredible how many they replace. The device you are referring to is probably the same type of device, since the OP says he gets just a little propane to start. On a defective solenoid valve, I don't think you would get any flow.