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06-03-2012, 08:49 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 164
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Removing a stuck anode from the water heater......
My anode rod is completely stuck. I certainly don't want to break it. Am I better off trying to soak it penetrating fluid, or heating I with a torch, or is there a better way???? Thqnks
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2010 Georgetown 357qs
2009 chevy hhr
2007 chevy silverado
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06-03-2012, 08:55 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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Fonzie
2011 Rockwood 8319SS with ProPride 3P hitch/GoodYear Marathons/TST TPMS 507
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Yamaha 3000iseb generator:Progressive Ind. EMS-HW30C : Eastern Ontario
Nights Camped: 2014 (18) 2015 (18) 2016 (36) 2017 (32) 2018 (42) 2019 (28) 2020 (35)
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06-03-2012, 10:55 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 196
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Sometimes when you have a stuck pipe thread, it helps to first try to tighten it. This will often break the corrosion on the threads allowing you to remove the item more easily.
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06-03-2012, 12:39 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 164
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Thanks to both of you. I'm on a trip so I may need to wait till I get home and get can get down to it. I had thought removing it was gonna be quick and easy
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2010 Georgetown 357qs
2009 chevy hhr
2007 chevy silverado
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06-03-2012, 03:01 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 201
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It definitely is not a job to do 'on the road'.
I always remove the anode rod after camping season is over, and always use teflon tape on the threads when I reinstall it, so never have a problem. But I suppose for full-timers, it may be a job that seldom gets done. I imagine though, that if teflon tape had been used, it shouldn't have gotten stuck. I also never tighten the heck out of it, actually only snugging it up until it quits leaking.
From years of experience with pipe thread, some are impossible to break apart without getting them red hot with a blowtorch. That is not the best solution around flamable materials, such as camper parts!
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06-03-2012, 05:33 PM
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#6
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.ken
Thanks to both of you. I'm on a trip so I may need to wait till I get home and get can get down to it. I had thought removing it was gonna be quick and easy
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I carry a 1/2" drive torque wrench for the lug nuts and an old 1-1/16" socket strictly for the anode and change the anode on the road or while camping if I forget to do it at the start of our annual trips to FL. Did it last yr in Orlando, not really much of a job if you have the right tools and have nothing else to do.
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06-03-2012, 05:47 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 164
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Admittedly I never changed it in the 2 years I have owned it. I use it year roun so it doesn't get winterized buy who would this a new rig would be that bad in 2 years. I have work to do when I get home
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2010 Georgetown 357qs
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2007 chevy silverado
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06-03-2012, 05:56 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 201
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I don't imagine the factory would bother putting anything on the threads to keep it from sticking, so two years is lots of time for the threads to rust and weld themselves together.
It is also good to drain the tank once in a while in case there is any solids collecting in the tank.
As always, more maintenance=less hassles down the road.
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06-03-2012, 06:01 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 164
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Lesson learned
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2010 Georgetown 357qs
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2007 chevy silverado
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06-03-2012, 06:17 PM
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#10
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.ken
Thanks to both of you. I'm on a trip so I may need to wait till I get home and get can get down to it. I had thought removing it was gonna be quick and easy
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It normally is a quick & easy job. Usually takes longer to drain the tank than to change the anode. I have even changed them while the tank is draining (of course the tank was cool) which is not that hard if you stand to the side so you don't get wet.
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06-04-2012, 05:43 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lund
Posts: 156
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Well.....if your sanitizing your water system every 6 months....this also wouldn't be a problem.....
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06-04-2012, 12:23 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 521
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If you looked at the manual on this product you would see that removing the anode, flushing the tank, etc., is a monthly maintence item, not 6 months, not 1 year and certainy not 2 years. The good book also indicates the use of teflon tape.
Being a full timer you do the maintence, one of the responses is that full timers ignore the required service intervals, actually fulltimers are more apt to do the required services to their "home", unlike casual weekend users.
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06-04-2012, 12:36 PM
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#13
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Dallas Texas
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 296
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PB Blaster is outstanding at loosening the rust in threads. I'll never go back to WD40. I would also use a 6 point socket to prevent any possibility of turning the socket on the anode nut. Wiork it back and forth a little at a time and it should come out just fine.
I replaced mine this past weekend and did a major de-scaling. The calcium "rocks" coming out of the tank was plentiful. The previous owner obviously didn't do any PM on it. Here's a pic of what was left of the anode.
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06-04-2012, 12:41 PM
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#14
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Now that is a completely used up anode rod.
Hopefully it wasn't in that condition very long.
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