Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-19-2017, 11:03 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Longwood
Posts: 61
Replacing Shocks

I am going to be replacing my shocks sometimes within the next week or so, depending on when they get here. I have a good torque wrench with me but I know that it doesn't go near as high as it needs to go. Has anybody just used a breaker bar with a piece of pipe on the end to get the bolts loose and tight? Or is this a good reason to tell my wife that I need more tools?
Jim_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2017, 11:08 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
JimF's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 521
More tools, a guy never has enough tools.
__________________
JimF, CWO, US Army Ret, 100% DAV
2011 Georgetown 378TS
2008 Dodge Caliber Toad
JimF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2017, 11:08 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
jrk341's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Etters,PA
Posts: 354
It's not a good idea to use a torque wrench to loosen bolts. Use the breaker bar and pipe to loosen them. You can never have enough tools. I bought a Armstrong torque wrench a while back. 25-250 ft lbs.
jrk341 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2017, 11:15 AM   #4
Site Team
 
wmtire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,924
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_bob View Post
I am going to be replacing my shocks sometimes within the next week or so, depending on when they get here. I have a good torque wrench with me but I know that it doesn't go near as high as it needs to go. Has anybody just used a breaker bar with a piece of pipe on the end to get the bolts loose and tight? Or is this a good reason to tell my wife that I need more tools?

Jim_bob, when you say torque wrench, do you mean a manual torque wrench or possibly an air or electric impact wrench (which some refer to as a torque wrench)
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS

A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
wmtire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2017, 11:25 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Jim34RL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oswego il
Posts: 2,430
First spray the bolts and nuts with Liquid Wrench let this sit for a couple of minutes. The fastens should be easier to remove once the Liquid Wrench has worked on them.

My son has a Milwaukee portable impact driver that he uses to loosen and fasten the hardware on his truck, then will use a torque wrench to check that the proper torque has been applied. It does make the job a lot easier and faster. Will worth the investment for this tool.
__________________
Jim W.
2016 34RL CC; 2008 Ram Mega Cab 2500HD, 6.7L, 68RFE 6 speed, 4X4, Smarty S67, TDR 145K+miles
Jim34RL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2017, 11:45 AM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Longwood
Posts: 61
I won't use the torque wrench to loosen anything. Actually I was thinking of going to flea market and getting an old breaker bar to use with a piece of pipe. I wouldn't use my 50 year old breaker bar like that. Didn't think about the liquid wrench. I'll put that on the bolts now. It will have a week to soak in.
So, I tell wife I need another torque wrench and an impact driver.
Jim_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2017, 01:31 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
jrk341's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Etters,PA
Posts: 354
I have the Milwaukee high torque impact gun. That thing will take almost anything loose. part number is 2763-22.
jrk341 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2017, 06:34 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
waiter21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 627
Impact driver is your friend... Spray all the bolts with liquid wrench a couple days before. I still had to use a torch to get the front lower ones off.

The rear top bolts are a challange to get at. I put a wrench on the nut, then a socket and breaker bar on the bolt.

I had close clearance issues on the new shocks, I added a washer on the top front so the top of the shock wouldn't hit the mount.

ALSO the shocks I had in the back, I had to modify so they wouldn't hit on th top.

I documented this in a short article.

Replace Shock Absorbers – 1999 Southwind 35S

//
__________________
2001 Coachmen Mirada (Ford F53 6.8L V10) - Toad 2003 Saturn Vue
It won't do MACH 2, but I can get a sandwich and take a pee.
waiter21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2017, 10:35 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
tamdle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Willis, TX
Posts: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_bob View Post
I am going to be replacing my shocks sometimes within the next week or so, depending on when they get here. I have a good torque wrench with me but I know that it doesn't go near as high as it needs to go. Has anybody just used a breaker bar with a piece of pipe on the end to get the bolts loose and tight? Or is this a good reason to tell my wife that I need more tools?
Yes, I have done that before when installing my stabilizer bar for the front and rear axle. Breaker bar would do the job fine. I also use it to take off the wheel nuts and put them back on. Make sure that your tool is strong enough to withstand the torque ie. not using the Harbor Freight tool their tools may only good up to 150 to 200 ft-lbs, more than that would only a "hit and miss". Also, your restriction may be the room available for using the long enough breaker bar (pipe extension).
__________________
Tam & Ha from Willis, TX
2016 Georgetown XL 352QS
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee
tamdle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2017, 10:37 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Longwood
Posts: 61
I put the Koni shocks on last night. It was very easy. I was worried about nothing. I used a 18" breaker bar, no pipe. I did have a 2' long piece of 1" ready just in case. I pulled hard and the nuts broke loose and then I used a ratchet to remove them.
Jim_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2017, 12:13 PM   #11
Member
 
tailwind22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 51
Let us know your impressions after the test drive
__________________
2018 Georgetown 31L5
A few air cooled Porsches
tailwind22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2017, 12:57 PM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Longwood
Posts: 61
I will for sure but it will be awhile. Also, I am wondering about the Sumo's. A couple people have told me that the Sumo's would not allow the Koni to work the way they should? I am waiting on a call from Koni right now to see what they think.
I will put the Safe-T-Plus on, I have it but now I need a U-Bolt made. The stock U-bolt is too short to use with the Safe-T-Plus mounting bracket. Using a new U-bolt would best anyway.
Jim_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2017, 04:54 PM   #13
Member
 
tailwind22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_bob View Post
I will for sure but it will be awhile. Also, I am wondering about the Sumo's. A couple people have told me that the Sumo's would not allow the Koni to work the way they should? I am waiting on a call from Koni right now to see what they think.
I will put the Safe-T-Plus on, I have it but now I need a U-Bolt made. The stock U-bolt is too short to use with the Safe-T-Plus mounting bracket. Using a new U-bolt would best anyway.
Supersteer.com sells both I believe. Might be a better place to start then Koni.
__________________
2018 Georgetown 31L5
A few air cooled Porsches
tailwind22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2017, 09:59 AM   #14
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Longwood
Posts: 61
I looked at Supersteer but PPL Motorhomes was about $50 cheaper for the Safe -T- Plus and Shock warehouse was about $30 cheaper for the shocks. Both places shipped for free.
Jim_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2017, 07:47 AM   #15
Member
 
tailwind22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_bob View Post
I looked at Supersteer but PPL Motorhomes was about $50 cheaper for the Safe -T- Plus and Shock warehouse was about $30 cheaper for the shocks. Both places shipped for free.
OK good deal. I was simply thinking that since Supersteer writes a lot of tech articles and they sell both, they would be able to comment on whether Konis and Sumos would work together.
__________________
2018 Georgetown 31L5
A few air cooled Porsches
tailwind22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2017, 08:20 AM   #16
Phat Phrog Stunt Team
 
AquaMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tipp City, OH
Posts: 7,154
I've always wondered how the ride is with the Sumos installed. I would think anything that would inhibit vertical movement in any way, would worsen the ride. The only benefit I see (over improving sway, which can be done with bigger bars), would be if the suspension was bottoming out. Although, I'm also not completely on board with the CHF (at least without longer links). Heavier shocks controlling rebound, heavier sway bars for body roll, and a rear track bar for stability make the most sense to me.
__________________
2016 Georgetown 364TS
2017 Jeep Rubicon Recon toad
Nights Camped 2019 - 17
AquaMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2017, 12:16 PM   #17
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Longwood
Posts: 61
I'll have to look the Supersteer website. I didn't know they had technical articles. I need to pay more attention. I did talk to someone at Koni and he said he did not know of any kind of tests using the konis and Sumos together. He didn't think the konis would work as well when using the Sumos too. I was going to take them off but then decided to just adjust them so I have a little clearance (1/4") on the bottom. The 1/4" is not much but it was easy to get. I think in the end the Sumos will come off and I'll think about the bigger bars. Roadmaster bars are, I think 1/2" bigger in dia. Probably wouldn't need the CHF
I wish I was not so far from a good road, I want to try the shocks an Safe-t-plus
Jim_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2017, 08:34 AM   #18
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Longwood
Posts: 61
I got the shocks on, front only. The safe-t-plus was very easy to adjust but I did mess around with it a little before I took it out. I was working with it at my camp in Ohio, gravel driveway. I leveled up the motorhome s good as I could. Then took just a little weight off the front. I kept turning the wheels till they looked straight then tightened up the safe-t-plus. I took it out on the road. I must have had it real close. It was going to the left just the smallest amount. I pulled into a rest area and was lucky there was nobody parked on one side. I drove the length of that area trying to go a straight as I could. I loosened the bracket and then retightened it. I am sure it moved less than 1/32”. I don’t think it could be any better. I can easily drive with one hand.
So after that a few days ago we headed back to Florida trying to get around this last hurricane. The handling was good on all the bad roads. Thru Va. at night it was a nightmare. In the mountains it was raining with bad cross winds and fog. I could still easily use just one hand if I wanted. I think it steers as good as my truck.
The only thing that could be better is the bracket. If you tighten up the “U” bolts too much it will bend. I used a torque wrench and mine is ok. I will make a new bracket that is more heavy duty. I am so pleased with it I think I will tell wife to go out there today and wipe it off and put some wax on it to keep it looking good.
Jim_bob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:26 AM.