Saved by the forum once again!

[Cyclone Rich]

Well, out of my own stupidity, I fried the motor in my LCI hydraulic leveling system. I ran it too long on "Low Voltage" and reset the breaker too many times in an attempt to get the coach level. After trying multiple shops, nobody would rebuild the motor, so I bit the bullet and ordered a brand new one. It arrived last week and I installed it with no problems whatsoever.

I used manual mode, and the motor sounded great, the coach leveled with ease. Problem fixed, right? Wrong.

When I pressed "Retract all Jacks", they continued to extend. After taking everything apart, putting it back together, cleaning all the connections etc.. they still wouldn't retract.

I knew it was time to consult the forum, and I found this thread from 2012: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ors-22955.html

According to the thread, I fried a diode in the wiring harness that controls the extend/retract function of the levelers. I would have never figured this out of my own. $142 later, I'm back to 100% functionality again.

Thanks, once again, for such a wealth of information and saving my ***** for the 1,000th time.

[TURBS]

Good report Rich!

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "15 nights"

[purduepete97]

And great use of the SEARCH function!!

[Pauls Toy Hauler]

Originally Posted by Cyclone Rich

.....and saving my ***** for the 1,000th time.

wait, WHAT????!!!! there is a thousand things that can go wrong..... Damn, I'm only like at two or three......

On a side note, the folks on this forum are pretty smart....or experienced?!

[Iggy]

Cyclone Rich

Sorry to hear about your horrors.

So if I understand you had to replace the 12 volt DC motor on your system
because you ran it too long over a short period of time without letting it cool down and having low battery voltage.
Hate to hear what the replacement motor cost?
Did it include the pump seals?

Now the diode you talk about is it on the small card wrapped in the wiring harness? I would love to get ahold of one to see what actually burnt up.
The pc board or actually a component on the board. (diode)

Anyway glad to see your up and running.
GREAT JOB!

[Cyclone Rich]

Originally Posted by Iggy

Cyclone Rich
Hate to hear what the replacement motor cost?
Did it include the pump seals?

You are correct on what I did wrong.

Just an FYI for ya...

Pump = $730 + I bought the optional "sealed coupling" for $18
Wiring Harness = $122 + $20 for 2 day shipping.

I seem to be the poster child for Expensive Lessons Learned.
Luckily I can do (and enjoy) all of the work myself.

I'll click some pics of the diode for ya when I get the RV back out of storage for our trip this weekend. I left the old wiring harness in my RV tool bag in case I ever need another piece of it for an emergency repair.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Iggy

Cyclone Rich

Sorry to hear about your horrors.

So if I understand you had to replace the 12 volt DC motor on your system
because you ran it too long over a short period of time without letting it cool down and having low battery voltage.
Hate to hear what the replacement motor cost?
Did it include the pump seals?

Now the diode you talk about is it on the small card wrapped in the wiring harness? I would love to get ahold of one to see what actually burnt up.
The pc board or actually a component on the board. (diode)

Anyway glad to see your up and running.
GREAT JOB!

Here's the circuit board connection side. The top track is red 12VDC leads to the input of a SCR (not diode). You can see in its a 3 pin device adjacent to the output white lead. The output of the SCR feeds the white output. On this board the Trac from the red feed to white output was shorted allowing the reverse solenoid to always be energized. None of the components are accessible because the board is sealed in molten rubber, trapping all electronics. Hope this helps any with type pump flow reversal.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by VinceU

Here's the circuit board connection side. The top track is red 12VDC leads to the input of a SCR (not diode). You can see in its a 3 pin device adjacent to the output white lead. The output of the SCR feeds the white output. On this board the Trac from the red feed to white output was shorted allowing the reverse solenoid to always be energized. None of the components are accessible because the board is sealed in molten rubber, trapping all electronics. Hope this helps any with type pump flow reversal.

Oh that's right VinceU you had the same issues a while back.
You also replaced the seals on the motor and pump if my memory recollects.
Low DC voltage really can really burn things up.


Not to hijack the thread but let me know if you will be in Goshen this year? I will.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Iggy

Oh that's right VinceU you had the same issues a while back.
You also replaced the seals on the motor and pump if my memory recollects.
Low DC voltage really can really burn things up.


Not to hijack the thread but let me know if you will be in Goshen this year? I will.

Won't make it, we'll be in Canada with some FL friends but thanks!

[Cyclone Rich]

Vince, thanks for the clarification on the "lingo".
Did you take the wiring harness apart and pull all the rubber off that circuit board?
Just wondering how you got your hands on the exposed circuit board.
Thanks.

[DuncanM]

Hate to say this to you Rich, but next week i am getting my wiring harness replaced by my dealer under a warranty or recall, covered by LCI. This is a know problem with these wiring harnesses. Had the same issue, hit the retract all button and instead they all go down all the way and then pop the breaker. My coach is a 2014, so FR warranty is over by almost a year now. There are plenty of posts on here about this issue.

[Cyclone Rich]

Thanks for the info, but don't have a warranty or a dealer as I'm the 2nd owner.

I'm so glad to be back up and running again, I don't even care about the replacement cost of the wiring harness. I've had a lot of "learning experiences" already, and I'm sure I'll have many more.

I'd hate to think of where I'd be without this forum to lean on.
Probably tent camping. lol

[aceinspp]

Good information on problem and fix. That is what A lot of folks look for to help them with there issue. Thanks for posting it. Later RJD

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by Cyclone Rich

Vince, thanks for the clarification on the "lingo".
Did you take the wiring harness apart and pull all the rubber off that circuit board?
Just wondering how you got your hands on the exposed circuit board.
Thanks.

Rich,

You have to remove the control cable from the vehicle to inspect it. It's 11 connectors, multi pin, and no fixed points. The white and black wires with one of those connectors is attached to the 'reversing solenoid, an integral part of the pump, manifold level. Follow the white and black leads to the wire loom and you'll surely see/feel the lump. Bad news is you must effectively destroy the control cable to free the molten/cast rubber box covering the circuit board. It looks intact in the photo, but I had no way to keep the assembly watertight in the future. Mine had a new one installed already. My inspection was a failure analysis. The CB lump can be located in place from the top with the interior steps out, or from below by locating the solenoid with black leads attached and follow back to multi conductor loom. It's, about midway in its length.


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