Suspension

[Swag]

Installs Koni shocks made a big difference

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by Mr BB

Thanks!!! there at 87 lbs (all 6) is that ok? there rated to 110lbs

Edit: I should have researched first lol that seems to in the ball park based on my weight

Go with what you have but I suspect you will want to lower the fronts a little bit at cold temp after you drive on the highway.
You will have to decide after you drive awhile and go over some cracks and bumps in the road.
Enjoy your trip/

[bclinton]

So I just removed the factory shocks and found something that is interesting. The shocks had no pressure on the frame rail. Once I loosened the bolts they moved freely. I have front sumo springs and it appears all of the weight is transferred through the springs, at least at resting position. Does that make my Bilstein upgrade useless or will the new shocks add dampering and distribute the bumps away from the sumos?

[ArubaGeorgetown]

Originally Posted by bclinton

So I just removed the factory shocks and found something that is interesting. The shocks had no pressure on the frame rail. Once I loosened the bolts they moved freely. I have front sumo springs and it appears all of the weight is transferred through the springs, at least at resting position. Does that make my Bilstein upgrade useless or will the new shocks add dampering and distribute the bumps away from the sumos?

it is my understanding that the sumo help the shocks by adsorbing some of the bumps and dampening the effect. They are not meant to be a stand alone item but work with the shocks. Without the shocks I believe your coach would be bouncing all over the place.

[bclinton]

Originally Posted by ArubaGeorgetown

it is my understanding that the sumo help the shocks by adsorbing some of the bumps and dampening the effect. They are not meant to be a stand alone item but work with the shocks. Without the shocks I believe your coach would be bouncing all over the place.

I'm hoping the factory shocks are just crap as in my case it sure looks like most of my impact was absorbed by the springs. I did notice a more jarring ride after I put on the springs but it eliminated my sway.

[NXR]

Originally Posted by Mr BB

Thanks!!! there at 87 lbs (all 6) is that ok? there rated to 110lbs

Edit: I should have researched first lol that seems to in the ball park based on my weight

Despite my previous beliefs, the sidewall pressure is the minimum pressure needed to carry the entire weight rating of the tire. For my GT5 on the 22,000 chassis, my sticker says 90 lbs because that is what is required to support the gross axle weight rating (GAWR) of each axle.

Since my CAT Scale weights with full garbage is just over 21,000 pounds, I prefer to run mine at 90 lbs + 10% or 99 or 100 lbs cold in the morning.

That gives me enough margin so that when the temps go low here the tires will not be too low for the weight they're carrying. I could run them with less but I prefer that the TPMS system stay quiet and if I get a slow leak I have more margin to work with.

FWIW,

Ray

[NXR]

Originally Posted by bclinton

So I just removed the factory shocks and found something that is interesting. The shocks had no pressure on the frame rail. Once I loosened the bolts they moved freely.

One interesting characteristic of the Koni FSD's is that, unlike other shocks, you can push the shock fully collapsed and pull it fully extended without a ton of effort and they stay there. There is no band holding them partially collapsed that needs cut once installed. They just work differently.

Ray

[bclinton]

Originally Posted by NXR

One interesting characteristic of the Koni FSD's is that, unlike other shocks, you can push the shock fully collapsed and pull it fully extended without a ton of effort and they stay there. There is no band holding them partially collapsed that needs cut once installed. They just work differently.

Ray

When the Bilsteins come in I will be able to tell pretty quick if they extend any further. I'm far from knowing much about shocks but I can't imagine I will see any improvement if the shocks are loose like my factory shocks when I am not moving. I was expecting to have to use a jack while I loosen the bottom nut to stop it from expanding.

[Mr BB]

Originally Posted by NXR

Despite my previous beliefs, the sidewall pressure is the minimum pressure needed to carry the entire weight rating of the tire. For my GT5 on the 22,000 chassis, my sticker says 90 lbs because that is what is required to support the gross axle weight rating (GAWR) of each axle.

Since my CAT Scale weights with full garbage is just over 21,000 pounds, I prefer to run mine at 90 lbs + 10% or 99 or 100 lbs cold in the morning.

That gives me enough margin so that when the temps go low here the tires will not be too low for the weight they're carrying. I could run them with less but I prefer that the TPMS system stay quiet and if I get a slow leak I have more margin to work with.

FWIW,

Ray

thanks for the response Ray! i recon we have pretty much the same frame. I put the RV on the scales when going home from the dealership on a half tank of gas and was 19480lbs, 7340/12140 with a payload of 2899lbs I'll try to hit the scales when i'm fully loaded. I haven't traveled far yet so i have really no idea how the ride is going to be. I will really find out when i get to Michigan LOL. Its the only state i know that when coming in (I75) to the state there is a 1-800 number to report pot holes. So i guess when i get back i'll make the decision on what to do. So do you think i should do the things as quoted in post 16 as you suggested? What is the HD front track Bar?
Billy

[NXR]

Originally Posted by Mr BB

thanks for the response Ray! i recon we have pretty much the same frame. I put the RV on the scales when going home from the dealership on a half tank of gas and was 19480lbs, 7340/12140 with a payload of 2899lbs

I'm confused by your math. 22,000 minus 19,480 = 2,520, not 2,899.

We emptied everything out for a prolonged dealer visit so I hit the scale on the way back: 7,060 - 12,680 - 19,740

Fuel tank was almost full, water tank was about 20 gallons, and we have the Splendide washer/dryer which is about 150 lbs. We also have dual pane windows and the rear compartment sliding storage tray. So assuming you do not have those we're pretty close pre-junk.

So do you think i should do the things as quoted in post 16 as you suggested? What is the HD front track Bar?

Don't know what an HD trac bar is. The F53 has a front trac bar as stock. I did have a rear one added but did not notice a lot of difference, maybe because we have a 242" wheelbase.

As odd as it sounds, a trac bar secures the body to the axles. You'd think that was a standard feature, huh?

Because the rear of the body can float left-right with relation to the rear axle, the "bow wave" of air pushed by an approaching truck literally pushes the rear of the body out of its way towards the opposite side.

Then as the truck passes the vacuum it generates sucks the body back over. Then the body kind of re-centers itself. If you feel a "tail wagging the dog" movement as a truck passes, then yes, a rear trac bar can fix that. You may notice it in how you have to steer when the truck passes.

As for everything else, well, only you can decide. Some people think it drives fine stock and others do not. Just do one thing at a time and try to decide just what the problem is that you're trying to fix. And whether what you did was effective or not.

HTH,

Ray

[Mr BB]

Originally Posted by NXR

I'm confused by your math. 22,000 minus 19,480 = 2,520, not 2,899.

We emptied everything out for a prolonged dealer visit so I hit the scale on the way back: 7,060 - 12,680 - 19,740

Fuel tank was almost full, water tank was about 20 gallons, and we have the Splendide washer/dryer which is about 150 lbs. We also have dual pane windows and the rear compartment sliding storage tray. So assuming you do not have those we're pretty close pre-junk.



Don't know what an HD trac bar is. The F53 has a front trac bar as stock. I did have a rear one added but did not notice a lot of difference, maybe because we have a 242" wheelbase.

As odd as it sounds, a trac bar secures the body to the axles. You'd think that was a standard feature, huh?

Because the rear of the body can float left-right with relation to the rear axle, the "bow wave" of air pushed by an approaching truck literally pushes the rear of the body out of its way towards the opposite side.

Then as the truck passes the vacuum it generates sucks the body back over. Then the body kind of re-centers itself. If you feel a "tail wagging the dog" movement as a truck passes, then yes, a rear trac bar can fix that. You may notice it in how you have to steer when the truck passes.

As for everything else, well, only you can decide. Some people think it drives fine stock and others do not. Just do one thing at a time and try to decide just what the problem is that you're trying to fix. And whether what you did was effective or not.

HTH,

Ray

The 2899 came the the yellow sticker and the track bar from the window sticker. Sorry about pics upside down

[NXR]

Where did they put that 17.5 gallon fuel tank in the second picture, first item?

Ray

[Mr BB]

Originally Posted by NXR

Where did they put that 17.5 gallon fuel tank in the second picture, first item?

Ray

Good question!!!!!!! Was asking myself the same question

[Mr BB]

Originally Posted by NXR

Where did they put that 17.5 gallon fuel tank in the second picture, first item?

Ray

Were you and your wife in cab when weighing? That was with both of us in cab, that leaves me with about 700lbs before max on front. I’ve got a 228 wheel base with the F550 and also have the washer and a dryer in back. Wonder which tank they used to calculate weight LOL. Any more thoughts on the HD front track bar?

[Mr BB]

Just found link that the frame is actually a f53. The window sticker is wrong from the plant.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/f550...-a-152290.html

[bclinton]

The Bilsteins came in and I feel a little better. They were compressed with a strap that I have not cut until I torque the nuts down tomorrow but they are about 1/4 of an inch longer than the factory shocks I removed so I am thinking once I cut the strap that should give me some dampening help.

As an added bonus Amazon sent me an extra shock (Bilstein 24-187367 5100 Series Front Shock for Dodge Ram 1500 09).....anyone interested?

[bclinton]

So.....torqued the nuts...or at least as torqued as my body and impact wrench could get them. I marked the shock prior to cutting the strap and it rose about 1/4 inch.....I'm thinking thats a good sign......next trip will be in about 2 weeks. Plenty of pothole fills roads in Arkansas to test them out

[NXR]

Originally Posted by bclinton

So.....torqued the nuts...or at least as torqued as my body and impact wrench could get them. I marked the shock prior to cutting the strap and it rose about 1/4 inch.....I'm thinking thats a good sign......next trip will be in about 2 weeks. Plenty of pothole fills roads in Arkansas to test them out

Really? No test drive? That's the first thing I did after spending all of that money.

Don't leave us in suspense!

Ray

[bclinton]

Originally Posted by NXR

Really? No test drive? That's the first thing I did after spending all of that money.

Don't leave us in suspense!

Ray

Ha.....ya I know....thanks for all the help and advise! I will chime back in. I really think my stock shocks were shot. I am able to compress them fully by hand with no recoil at all.

[bclinton]

First trip with the Bilstein shocks installed - front. It's like a new motorhome! The slight vibration in the steering wheel I have had since day one is gone! It feels like I am actually driving in a car. The creaking in the MH that sounded like it was falling apart as I left my driveway is no more! I know it sounds over dramatized but the difference is substantial. I think I have finally made the RV drive-able! Highly recommend!