Upsizing

[kaypay]

Good Morning...We have travelled and camped in a Roadtrek class B for several years. Now planning to go bigger to a Class A. We are looking at a 2014 Georgetown 328 TS. Does anyone on this forum have or had one and what are the pros and cons. Thanks.

[NXR]

No, however, for whatever it's worth, I looked at the specs here: https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2014-...-328ts-tr18421

Couple of observations:

• Ford started putting in a six-speed transmission beginning with their 2016 model year, which usually means a 2017 RV model year. The 6-speed is supposed to be quieter and have better shifting but that's kind of a personal preference. Some people have had an after-market "tune" added for about $500 - $600 that they say noticeably improves the drivability. Will you primarily be on flat roads or mountainous roads?
  
  
• Will you be towing a vehicle? If so, what does it weigh? It looks like the 328TS has a 5,000 lb hitch per 2014 Forest River Georgetown 328TS Road Test
  
  
• A 2014 RV model year may still have the original tires and they should be replaced if they are because they are about at the end of their safe life. Some people will argue about this but motorhome tires usually have lots of tread left even when they are several years old but still should be replaced around every five years.
  
  If the four-digit tire date code starts with 12, 13, or 14, they are original. That is the year they were manufactured. The other two digits are the week so 1352 would be the last week of December 2013.
  
  The 245/70R 19.5F tire size is the 19.5" wheel while heavier units use a 22.5" wheel. Many people think the 22.5" wheels ride better but you're the judge of that. Those Goodyear tires look to be roughly $300 plus mounting so that could be an additional $2,000 of expense to replace all six.
  
  
• With a GVWR or 20,500 lbs, 208" wheelbase and 34' length, check to see what the previous owners did for any driving improvements, such as the extra sway bar, adding a rear trac bar, new shocks, etc. The lighter, shorter length and shorter wheelbase units seem to garner more complaints about drivability. These can be pretty much eliminated with third-party equipment but someone has to pay for it.
  
  
• 208" (wheelbase) divided by 34.3' (total length) or 411" yields barely 50%. Higher is better and many people will say 50% or lower can cause driveability issues. A unit like that also can have a much longer tail overhang which needs to be compensated for during turns.
  
  For perspective, I have a 242" wheelbase and I have 12' from the center of the rear wheel to the very rear of the motorhome. If you can, measure your overhang.
  
  Depending on where your tanks are and how full they are, having a lot of weight at the rear can create a lever effect where the rear axle is carrying a lot more of the load than the front axle. It could lead to you hitting the weight limit on the rear axle, or overloading it, while the front axle is relatively unloaded. That "front end light" condition can also lead to drivability issues. Do you have a reasonably current CAT Scale weight of each axle available?
  
  
• From some pictures I found online it looks like a great unit. If you're not that familiar with potential problems on a used unit, consider hiring a professional inspector from https://nrvia.org/locate/ or similar. I've never used them but got a quote of about $600 and he would have had to drive from a neighboring state.
  
  If the current owner does not have solid maintenance records, consider asking them to split the cost with you. If they object even with you paying the entire fee, I'd be very wary unless you are really bucks-up.

I'm sure some of the numerous people here that own or have owned similar-age units will chime in with specifics.

Good luck,

Ray

[IDguy]

Depending on where you like to camp length might be an issue. For National Parks 30 ft is iffy.

Also I MUCH prefer the short wheelbase on my 2019 30x3. (190) There have been a number of times where I could just make a u-turn with it...an issue with toad attached.

Yes, overhang can be problematic: but not for turning. For ups and downs.

Mine is 18000 pounds GVW...and I am right there at closed State weigh stations fully loaded. Tanks in front of rear axle and I put heavy stuff near front. My balance on the scales is spot on (6000F 12000R).

Handles nicely. I did the CHF but it didn’t do much: a little less sway. I might add air bags to lift rear a few inches.

I live in Idaho so always mountains. V10 w six speed trans nice but you need to be OK with high rpm (>4000). The engine is built for it. Pulls my 4100 lb Cherokee without a whimper.

[RELHUB]

Originally Posted by kaypay

Good Morning...We have travelled and camped in a Roadtrek class B for several years. Now planning to go bigger to a Class A. We are looking at a 2014 Georgetown 328 TS. Does anyone on this forum have or had one and what are the pros and cons. Thanks.

I Looked it up and it is a very nice MH.
How many miles are on it?
I just replaced our tires with same Factory tires.
They are costly but I only purchase American Made Tires.
I purchased all 6 plus front wheel Alignment $4,215.00

FYI.... My original tires had ZERO cracks and still looked great.
I will not keep tires on my MH once they hit 7 years old.
On our trucks I will run tires 12 years old but on a MH no way.
The reason is simple when a tires blows on our truck no other damage.
If a tire blows on a MH you could easily have a lot of costly body damage.
Also when I am on vacation I don't want to lose any time sitting on the side
of the road waiting for road service to swap out a tire.