Using eternabond on the seams at the front and rear ends?

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

This is heresy on this site, but...
You could consider clear flex tape for the front cap area. It will likely turn an amber-ish color over time. No idea if it would have the same life as Eternabond. If you go this way, keep us appraised of how well it works. The manufacturer is obviously selling a lot of their stuff...

From Flex Tape site,

"*Flex Tape is a temporary, emergency repair and is not meant to be a permanent fix."

https://www.flexsealproducts.com/product/flex-tape/

It doesn't sound like heresy to me.

[RichM303]

I have never used eternabond tape. Is it the same tape that is used on the slide-out roof seams? If so would it be a good idea to go over the slide-out seams also? And has anyone done this? Thanks.

[EVOFXDWG]

I wish I had known how well Eternabond works. I fought a stubborn leak at the back of my 2006 Coachmen Mirada 3 times with Dicor and the other brand of similar stuff camping world sells. I really slobbed on the self leveling stuff the last time and after a few weeks we had a really heavy downpour and it started leaking again. I couldn't tell exactly where the water was going in.

I finally got a roll of the 3" (or is it 4") wide Eternabond and went completely across the back cap, straddling the aluminum molding screwed down over the rubber roof, including a few inches down both sides. My prep was to cut off any really high spots and mildew-looking puddles of old dicor with a scraper and knife blade, a good wash and scrub with carwash and a stiff brush, dry several hours in the hot sun, then wipe with acetone on a lint-free clean shop rag. (wear appropriate rubber gloves for that part). I used a metal 1 inch wide roller normally used for applying car sound deadener to roll out any bubbles and apply pressure on both sides of the molding. The last bit rolling over the side was a bit wrinkled but I just rolled it down as well as I could.

That was several months ago. No leaks since!

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by RichM303

I have never used eternabond tape. Is it the same tape that is used on the slide-out roof seams? If so would it be a good idea to go over the slide-out seams also? And has anyone done this? Thanks.

On our 2008 Cherokee, the outer face of each slideout has flanges that lap the roof and sides about 2-3 inches. Round-head screws every 5-6 inches go through the flanges. Eternabond tape, maybe 4" wide, covers the flange, its screw heads, and laps over onto the roof and sidewalls of the slideout.

The weak link is the round-head screws. After 11 years, the adhesive layer has flowed off the top of the screws, the thin vinyl has ruptured, and a few screw-heads are rusting. (Same thing happened on the flat skylights on the slideout.)

I haven't decided whether I will remove the Eternabond and put on new, or simply scrub the old Eternabond and cover it with new. The adhesion and seal is fine--just need to cover the screw-heads.

Too bad they didn't use flat-head screws into countersunk flanges. Even using pan-head (oven-head) screws would have been better.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by RichM303

I have never used eternabond tape. Is it the same tape that is used on the slide-out roof seams? If so would it be a good idea to go over the slide-out seams also? And has anyone done this? Thanks.

Yes, it is the same as what is used on the slide. Having the slide toppers installed at the dealer, I didn't realize it until I covered my roof seams with it.

[BOO-BOO-IS-IN-CAMP]

my 2628ws is 6 yr old i am plastic drop curtin-ing off all sides & using the wash to prep the rubber roof then decor all seams then rolling on a new coat of roof sealer we cant travel and this is a good time to take care of a lack of maintenance that has never been don i just cleaned all rubber seals then ill be installing my solar panels & investor
we just bought it last fall
we love the lay out
may change the table an one booth & put in 2 chairs

[chaps2018]

I recommend following RSDATA’s post on how to apply the tape. Don’t skimp on trimming the high spots otherwise the tape will not go down smoothly.

[RolnThndrCat]

All this sounds rather interesting and informative. Considering the poor job the factory did on the roof of our Wildcat, I may do the front and rear joints with the Eternabond along with the side rails. Sounds better then fighting leaks and repairs.

If I could only describe how bad a job the factory did on this roof. Shame on me for not going over it better before pulling it away from the dealer.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by chaps2018

I recommend following RSDATA’s post on how to apply the tape. Don’t skimp on trimming the high spots otherwise the tape will not go down smoothly.

I agree with trimming down the high spots, but the seam/protrusion surface will still be uneven and lumpy. What worked best for me was waiting for a warm day, letting the Eternabond warm up in the sun, and then applying. Much easier to work with also. I worked most of the tape in with my fingers and rolled what I could.

[BOO-BOO-IS-IN-CAMP]

Originally Posted by rsdata

I put tape on the roof side seams and lapped it about 1/4 to 1/2 inch ( somewhere in that range) into the gutters... so the tape width extends from the rubber roof, over the seam and into the gutter, not into the bottom of the gutter

Hi RS
is there any good boondocking spots out your way

[Chuck_S]

Eternabonded (to make that a verb) the junction between the end caps and roof on my Roo 23SS in 2005. Right over whatever glop or sealant was there. 4" wide tape. Still there 15 years later. Still fully sealed.

-- Chuck

[RobinDella]

Originally Posted by bclinton

So...while I can't go anywhere I am having an itch to put eternabond over the dicor on my front and rear ends? A buddy lent me his 14 foot A-frame ladder so I should be able to do it from there. Any insight on why I shouldn't do that? Right now I have no issues with water and this is my 3rd season. I have checked it and reapplied dicor a couple of times and it looks good. Just trying to do something to add a little insurance to avoiding water damage.

YES then you'll never have to reapply dicor every year. My puma is 2 years old now and I'm waiting on my ETERNABOND from Amazon in order to do same to mine

[Tapex]

Got started today with my Eternabond project

[bclinton]

Originally Posted by tapex

Got started today with my Eternabond project Attachment 227276Attachment 227278Attachment 227279

Clean looking job! I just ordered some 2 inch eternabond and will look at taping my sides at the gutter seam. Just not shure how I want to do it. Looking at your sky light.......I was tempted to put a cross with 4 inch wide tape over that. The plastic on my bathroom skylight just looks like its begging for some hail to crack it.

[Tapex]

Originally Posted by bclinton

Clean looking job! I just ordered some 2 inch eternabond and will look at taping my sides at the gutter seam. Just not shure how I want to do it. Looking at your sky light.......I was tempted to put a cross with 4 inch wide tape over that. The plastic on my bathroom skylight just looks like its begging for some hail to crack it.

Thanks, I'm planning on cleaning the skylight dome with Meguiars headlight restoration. I just had that thought as I was up there doing the Eternabond. Let's face it..plastic is here to stay right [emoji23]

[rsdata]

SKYLIGHT PROTECTION

The plastic on my bathroom skylight just looks like its begging for some hail to crack it.

This made me think about a post from several years ago about protecting skylight from hail and sun and heat...

look here at post # 7 (THX Old Coot)... you can buy that mesh metal at HomeDepot and other spots I'm sure...

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ail-84318.html

[handymanj56]

Originally Posted by bclinton

Clean looking job! I just ordered some 2 inch eternabond and will look at taping my sides at the gutter seam. Just not shure how I want to do it. Looking at your sky light.......I was tempted to put a cross with 4 inch wide tape over that. The plastic on my bathroom skylight just looks like its begging for some hail to crack it.

I want to do the same...but I may use 3 inch..my gutters are black so I will be using black..if I use 3 inch it will come about 1 inch or so on the roof and bottom just to the bottom of the plastic screw cover.....

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by bclinton

Clean looking job! I just ordered some 2 inch eternabond and will look at taping my sides at the gutter seam. Just not shure how I want to do it. Looking at your sky light.......I was tempted to put a cross with 4 inch wide tape over that. The plastic on my bathroom skylight just looks like its begging for some hail to crack it.

Is it a real skylight or a crankup fan cover? The fixed, domed skylights are very robust. Some of the crank-up vent covers are pretty flimsy and they get very fragile after a few years in the sun. If it's a crank-up cover, maybe just replace it.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by CincyGus

The main issues I've seen on used RV's that I've looked at with side seam issues are as follows:

1) The edges of the decking were not rounded and are a sharp corner that has rubbed/cut the rubber roof on the corner as it rolls from roof to sidewall, above the gutter. Generally right on the leading edge of the top of the decking, you will see it split. As RSDATA stated, That's exactly what I plan to do once I get a warm dry weekend off work on a 18 month old trailer because I can feel the non-rounded corners of the decking and know it will at some point rub through and tear the rubber roofing. I'll be using 2" tape as with the transition I don't want too wide a piece that it becomes unworkable.

Gus, thanks for clarifying that. On the SOB I'm rebuilding, they used a very thick 3" tape spanning the roof decking (about 2") and the siding (about 1") which covered the spots where the aluminum had not been sufficiently trimmed. As I'm rebuilding it, I am trimming the siding where needed but I will continue to apply tape over that transition. The rain gutter screws go through butyl tape, the EPDM membrane, and the tape before they go into the 1x2 ribbon. This should eliminate the need for external tape.

I would like to find a source for this tape. The original tape has a black external surface which is paperlike and has a wrinkled, crumpled texture. I would even be happy with an alternative, maybe something with a core that wouldn't be cut by siding.

[Tapex]

Originally Posted by rsdata

SKYLIGHT PROTECTION



This made me think about a post from several years ago about protecting skylight from hail and sun and heat...

look here at post # 7 (THX Old Coot)... you can buy that mesh metal at HomeDepot and other spots I'm sure...

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ail-84318.html

Thanks rsdata! Interesting mod by OC.