Vented Splendide in a 373

[Nutmeg]

Working on installing a vented Splendide washer/dryer combo in a 373. Was going to go straight out the wall in the prepped compartment but at the 22.5 inch center line for the vent my stud finder indicates that there is a longitudinal member perfectly centered there. Has anyone else installed one in this model or had a similar experience and what was your work around? Thanks

[NXR]

Good thing you checked first, huh?

I suspect you've run into a height difference between what the compartment was prepped for and what is sold today. You definitely do not want to shim the washer/dryer higher because the 2100XC has a 1,200 RPM speed.

If you're dead set on a straight-through connection I'd see if I could build up the bottom of the cabinet to provide a rock-solid base. I wouldn't think a bit more height would be a problem for the drain but be certain to check the installation manual limits.

Otherwise I'd put the vent a bit lower so there is less chance of a lint build-up in that now-angled duct.

Even if you do not build a base, look the cabinet over closely and consider adding more structural support. My 2100XC was factory-installed and it still vibrated lot. The dealer did one fix and it lasted a few loads and then the cabinet started to disassemble itself. The dealer took the cabinet apart and added a lot of support to it and came up with a different method to secure it to the wall. It's been perfect for months with near-daily usage. (For some reason the factory does not use the brackets to clamp the Splendide to the floor. I'd consider adding those myself.)

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ng-191503.html

And put a good coat of wax on the outside below the vent. You'll see a lot of lint collecting on the wall and inside the vent cover. If I were installing a new exterior vent cover I'd figure out how to get rid of or fill in the 90-degree angles at the bottom corners to reduce the amount of lint getting caught inside that cover.

We love ours. We'll never have another RV without a washer/dryer, even these little combo units.

HTH,

Ray

[Nutmeg]

Ray thanks for your feedback. The cabinet front to back is just deep enough to allow a 1-1/2 inch offset from the rear wall. As such flex ducting over to an position other than straight back is difficult and a "periscope" i think will take too much depth.

My initial though was to buildup a platform the three inches and have a storage slot under the unit. Now that I see what you have gone thru I need to take a closer look at how that cabinet is supported. When I saw the warning from Splendide on the support took it with a grain of salt since it was factory prepped for a unit. Now not so sure. I have purchased the feet brackets already and like your thru bolt idea. Mine did not come with the rear bracket.

This is getting interesting.

[NXR]

Despite what it may feel like right now, your effort is worth it and you'll be very pleased with the additional convenience.

I don't know where that rear bracket came from because I did not see it in the installation manual. And Forest River's method of "securing" it, three lousy self-tapping screws in thin wood, was just woefully inadequate.

The physical installation is not rocket science because the plumbing and electrical is already done. I think I understand your idea of a storage slot, because that implies a lot of bracing perhaps with 2x4's on their side. What did you plan to stick in the slot?

If you don't know, consider just building the shelf solid on all four sides with a brace through the center, left to right, to add stiffness.

A second 2x4 on its side at the front under the feet to screw those two brackets into could also help. That one could be wood screwed and glued to the plywood you build the platform top with. But you may not have enough room to add that one.

And yes, once you get it installed and running you'll likely feel shaking up front when it's on high spin and the load is heavy or slightly off-balance to start. But the floor will feel pretty solid over the rear axle with just a bit of vibration. Just deal with it.

When our cabinet was the original design we would be sitting outside at the rear on the same side and see the motorhome shaking from the vibration. It actually worried us. Once the cabinet was rebuilt we barely know it's running from the outside.

Ray

[Nutmeg]

Yup will be good once done, just a bit more work right now to get it done right.

Finding the framing member is a mix blessing as it has led to the strength discussion. I have cabinet making skills so upping the game is not the issue. Its thinking it out so we get the best possible outcome doing it once.

Initial thought was a 3-1/2 inch high perimeter box frame with 3/4 plywood top, with a drawer or open area for storage below. Thought now with the strength concerns, is still the perimeter frame but with center support front to back, As the cabinet is counter levered over the lower drawers below, that face front will support the front weight but have to look to see if there is wall framing to secure the side and back of the frame to and if supporting structure can/needs to be added behind the lower drawers to support the weight down to the floor.

Additional possibilities are adding a base to the frame for added rigidity. Can evaluate framing across the front also for strength at the cost of the storage space which maybe of limited value anyway if there is such a thing in an RV.

Reaching out on the forum gives me the added experience of the community.

[NXR]

Sounds like a plan. You may be able to place some metal doubler plates or angle aluminum at strategic places to help with the strength of the attach points.

My washer cabinet is also above drawers but only the rear 50% or so.

I'm just not sure what you could use a 3.5" high slot for. Not detergent, not fabric softener or similar. Maybe stuff some dirty clothes in there.

We actually pile the dirty clothes on top of the Splendide but occasionally had something drop behind it. Mechanical fingers do come in handy there. You might want to consider putting a shelf across the top for setting dirty clothes on.

We thought we could use the washer as our clothes hamper but it turned out it wasn't practical. If we wanted to dry bath towels, for example, we had to unload the washer first.

Since yours might be higher than ours, consider how someone on the shorter side could pour detergent and softener in the drawer. We keep a small plastic step stool inside and it works fine there.

Ray

[Nutmeg]

So we double check our stud finder readings and they are the same as yesterday. Curiosity got to me so I checked location of the vent from the existing deck and what the minimum height would to above the indicated structural member. Since there was an overlap in the tow circles I decided to drill an observation hole. And I cannot find anything there except Styrofoam.....Probe all around with a #0 Phillips head and nothing. Check with the stud finder again and it indicates repeatedly.

Shake head and pull the drawers out below the cabinet to check on the support structure. Find the 1x1 rail that the deck is supported by held in by 3 screws on each side and most of the screws have split that 1x1.

Add one 1x4 and two 1x3 uprights from the floor to the bottom of the rail gluing them to the rail and adding six screws in each to secure to the outer wall. And two angle "L''s at the top joint for additional support.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by Nutmeg

So we double check our stud finder readings and they are the same as yesterday. Curiosity got to me so I checked location of the vent from the existing deck and what the minimum height would to above the indicated structural member. Since there was an overlap in the tow circles I decided to drill an observation hole. And I cannot find anything there except Styrofoam.....Probe all around with a #0 Phillips head and nothing. Check with the stud finder again and it indicates repeatedly.

Shake head and pull the drawers out below the cabinet to check on the support structure. Find the 1x1 rail that the deck is supported by held in by 3 screws on each side and most of the screws have split that 1x1.

Add one 1x4 and two 1x3 uprights from the floor to the bottom of the rail gluing them to the rail and adding six screws in each to secure to the outer wall. And two angle "L''s at the top joint for additional support.

OUTSTANDING JOB!
Great pictures to show the amount of hard work and planning you did.

[NXR]

FWIW, the current models use an aluminum framing in the walls, not wood. The styrofoam insulation is between the framing. Were you aware of that? Are you positive your wall framing members are wood?

The attached picture is from our factory tour. It shows the curved aluminum roof frames in the back with a few wall frames in the front.

If you're not certain, I would drill a series of shallow pilot holes, deep enough to go through the plywood but not deep enough to drill into any structural member. Then I would take a nail or awl and push it into each pilot hole and see if it hit anything before I used the hole saw.

I think those aluminum framing members were 1" x 1" or maybe a bit larger so the holes would need to be close together. And obviously I'd start the hole series in a line where I thought the framing was located.

Have you checked above and below the member you found to see if there are others? I would think there should be and that should confirm that your stud finder actually is finding crossmembers.

Ray

[Nutmeg]

I am pretty sure my frame is aluminum also. The head shaker is the stud finder continues to be indicating something in a longitudinal line shown in red and also a much wider vertical shown by the line and the red x's. The inspection hole is just above that horizontal line and I was expecting to find framework there.

Probing has not showed any structure below the hole. Hole goes the two inches to what I believe is the back of outer wall. No reason to believe the wall is thicker than that.

Since the pilot drill may be compromised by the inspection hole I am planning on cutting the hole using a perimeter guide. (cut a hole with the hole saw in a scrape of plywood and use that as a guide when cutting the actual hole). Prior to that plan on a couple more inspection holes to be sure. A lot easier to fix a few holes in the inner paneling than a framing member.

As part of the strengthening of the compartment, I am placing a piece of 1/2 hardwood plywood that I will laminate to the existing cabinet floor. Have it cut to size, in the process of staining and polyurethane so the hole has to wait a few days.

[CA Fisherman]

Nutmeg, assuming the Styrofoam material is comprised of rigid panels, I wonder if the seams where the panels join each other are secured with a tape material with enough metallic properties to cause a reaction by your stud-finder. If the tape has no metallic properties, the increased density caused by the tape over the Styrofoam could register with your stud-finder.

I realize the interior material, Styrofoam and exterior material are generally laminated together, however I suspect there are seams in the Styrofoam.

I realize my thinking is pretty far outside the box, however you are attempting to put a hole in the box.

[NXR]

A lot easier to fix a few holes in the inner paneling than a framing member.

Not if you make a big enough hole in the wall. It'll be hidden by the washer/dryer anyways.

If you're not going to be able to put some kind of drip tray under the washer/dryer you might want to consider caulking up the inside seams on the base. That could give you an early warning of a leak and also result in less water elsewhere.

Unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the walls but i do have some pictures of the 2020 roof with its styrofoam insulation panel installed. They indeed do use a metal/foil tape on those but it looks like it's three or four inches wide.

You know, if you would just buy a new Georgetown I would have some good pictures for you.

Ray

[congrejoloco]

Originally Posted by NXR

...

You know, if you would just buy a new Georgetown I would have some good pictures for you.

Ray

I have a new 2020 GT5 31L5 and would be more than happy for some pictures!

[NXR]

I've got close to a hundred. I'll have to figure out where to upload them all.

Ray

[congrejoloco]

Ray, if it's a hassle don't worry about it.

-Wayne