Water Heater Drain

[Rongrice]

Just winterized my Georgetown for the first time, and when removing the water heater drain plug, there is a rod extending into the tank, with deposits on it. Does anyone know what this could be for? As I said, it is the first winter I have had this unit, and have no idea what this is.

Any help would be helpful.

[rthrbelsewhere]

It's a sacrificial anode rod to prevent the water tank from corroding.

It should look like this when it's brand new - Replaceable Anode Rods for Atwood and Suburban Water Heaters - Product - Camping World (Link for reference only, I don't work for camping world).

Joe

[rthrbelsewhere]

Oh, one more thing. Since it's you first winterizing, don't put any antifreeze in the hot water tank. I just pull the plug, rinse it out real good (i use one of these - Camco Mfg Inc - Water Heater Tank Rinser - Water Heaters - Camping World) and get any chunks out that might have been in there, then I use my compressor and a wand similar to the referenced rinse tube to blow out any excess water and then put a new anode rod in (wrap the threads with Teflon tape) to keep the opening from rusting out. That's about it. If you fill the lines with RV antifreeze, turn the valves to the hot water tank off so that it doesn't put any of that antifreeze in the hot water tank. Just remember to open the valve back up again after de-winterizing and fill it with fresh clean water before you turn the hot water tank back on so that it doesn't burn the heating element out next summer.

Joe

[Herk7769]

I almost put a new rod into mine the first winter I had the rod out. A quick drive to the dealer filled me in (he could have easily sold me a new one).

Tips:

1) As long as there is at least 1/2 of the anode material on the iron wire it is "good." It will look terrible, but work fine.

2) It corrodes from the iron cap towards the tip, so the bare metal iron wire will be exposed without the rod being "bad."

3) ALWAYS use Teflon tape when re-installing so you can get it out easily next year. Installing without tape will corrode the threads.

4) Use care when putting it back is so the iron wire is still straight.

5) NEVER use anything except the correctly sized socket to remove or install the anode. Trying to force an adjustable wrench into the heater area is a recipe for disaster.

[MtnGuy]

Like Lou implied, don't be afraid if the anode rod looks terrible.

Here is mine after 2 years of use......and it has plenty more years left:

[grandpaofthree]

Lou,

Great tip. I have an inch long scar on my left thumb from 2 years ago as a reminder that this is a bad idea.

[jdudd]

I drained mine for the first time two weeks ago in order to winterize it.

'...Trying to force an adjustable wrench into the heater area is a recipe for disaster.'

I ended up with 3 stitches afterward!! I used the correct sized socket, but only a 3-inch extension and as soon as the bolt broke free cut it on the outside frame of the heater. Then I had to stand there bleeding through several napkins while the darn thing drained!

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by jdudd

I drained mine for the first time two weeks ago in order to winterize it.

I ended up with 3 stitches afterward!! I used the correct sized socket, but only a 3-inch extension and as soon as the bolt broke free cut it on the outside frame of the heater. Then I had to stand there bleeding through several napkins while the darn thing drained!

Big time bummer on the stitches !!

Suburban really cranks those puppies in there tight. Getting mine loose the 1st time was the hardest. A little pipe tape, and not tightening when I reinstall the anode rod, and it isn't bad to remove now.

[SaskCampers]

Originally Posted by mtnguy

Big time bummer on the stitches !!

Suburban really cranks those puppies in there tight. Getting mine loose the 1st time was the hardest. A little pipe tape, and not tightening when I reinstall the anode rod, and it isn't bad to remove now.

Electric Impact gun works wonders to remove the anode rod, just don't use one to reinstall it.