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Old 07-07-2020, 05:47 AM   #1
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Check engine light due to "speck of dirt" in fuel rail

2005 FR Lexington 283....50K miles.....6.8 L Ford V-10 in E450 chassis

Sat 3 months during virus and check engine light is ON (solid yellow)

Dealer tested and said prob was with fuel rail having a spec of dirt due to sitting too long. Advised driving it more. Hard to do with virus but we are getting out on short trips

Light has come ON again

A reputable truck shop advised yesterday that I put additive in gas tank to clear fuel rail.

Is this a good idea? If so, what should I add? How much into 55 gals (full tank)? Does anyone use SeaFoam? What about Marvel Mystery Oil?

I don't want to mess up a great running Ford engine with the wrong stuff.

Help please---This MH is very new to us (Purchased March 19, 2020....just before virus hit). Spent its entire life in Maine and now serves us in central Florida. We LOVE Lexington.
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Old 07-07-2020, 06:05 AM   #2
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If the check engine light is coming on, there should be a fault code stored that can be retrieved with a code reader via the OBDII port under the dash. Without knowing the code, this talk of a spec of dirt and suggesting using fuel additives sounds like guesswork. Did the dealer say what the fault code was?
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Old 07-07-2020, 06:13 AM   #3
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What is the code associated with the CEL?
You will get a host of answers about what additive to use and which one will destroy your engine for ever. If I didn't have AMSOIL PI on hand, Seafoam would bs my go-to. For a tank that large, if it were a fuel system issue, I would only fill it half way and use 2 quarts of Seafoam. Drive it home and let it sit for a day or two. Then drive it until you need fuel again. I mean go drive around the interstate until you need to fill up. If it is a soluble particulate that will clear it up.
I have successfully cleaned 100% blocked injectors with it. I was honestly amazed. You should probably add some fuel stabilizer before you let it sit for months. Also keep the tank full when storing. The humidity is less likely to condense in a full tank.
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Old 07-07-2020, 06:32 AM   #4
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Thanks Evil Twin

I have 1/2 tank now

So, add 2 quarts SeaFoam.....let sit overnight......and then drive to nearly empty?

Then, fill and store with Stabil

Is this the way to go?

Thanks--Newbie
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Old 07-07-2020, 06:47 AM   #5
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Yep. Though to clarify: after you add the SF, you need to drive it for at least 30 minutes. That will circulate the SF and allow it to "slosh mix" in the tank. Sitting overnight with the chemicals in the pump, rails, injectors, etc will help break any deposits down. Just adding it without mixing won't help much. Then, a day or three later drive it till you need fuel. Add stabilizer and fill up.
Again, what is the code? If the code has nothing to do with a misfire, injector circuit fault or bank 1/2 O2 sensors it may not do a thing. Won't hurt, just won't help.
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Old 07-07-2020, 06:48 AM   #6
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Duplicate post.
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Old 07-07-2020, 03:58 PM   #7
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Diesel Fuel issues

Diesel Fuel collects water. Water grows algae. Algae can clog filters, injectors, etc.... SeaFoam is an excellent product to use to clean Fuel systems. It's recommended at Fuel Filter Change for tough jobs. Fill the new filter(s) with SeaFoam. Start the engine, run for 30 seconds to get the SeaFoam in the fuel rail and injectors. Shut the engine off anf go have a cup of coffee. Give the SeaFoam 30minutes+ to work. Start the engine and drive it. stop/go, highway, a good 1/2 hour run. Stop and put the correct SeaFoam mix in the tank and fill with fresh Diesel fuel and dive it home. You'll love the difference.
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Old 07-07-2020, 04:03 PM   #8
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Diesel Fuel collects water. Water grows algae. Algae can clog filters, injectors, etc.... SeaFoam is an excellent product to use to clean Fuel systems. It's recommended at Fuel Filter Change for tough jobs. Fill the new filter(s) with SeaFoam. Start the engine, run for 30 seconds to get the SeaFoam in the fuel rail and injectors. Shut the engine off anf go have a cup of coffee. Give the SeaFoam 30minutes+ to work. Start the engine and drive it. stop/go, highway, a good 1/2 hour run. Stop and put the correct SeaFoam mix in the tank and fill with fresh Diesel fuel and dive it home. You'll love the difference.
Not a Diesel, it's a V-10...
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Old 07-07-2020, 08:46 PM   #9
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A reputable truck shop advised yesterday that I put additive in gas tank to clear fuel rail.

Is this a good idea? If so, what should I add? How much into 55 gals (full tank)? Does anyone use SeaFoam? What about Marvel Mystery Oil?

I don't want to mess up a great running Ford engine with the wrong stuff.


If the reputable truck shop had diagnosed the problem, then they would have recommended the right additive to your rig along with the quantity.
Have the code read and then get it fixed. The additives mentioned (Seafoam, Amzoil, etc) will not hurt your engine: only help it. Marvel Mystery Oil helps keep the piston rings clean and free, which help to keep the combustion chamber clean as well. I once flew on a B-25 Bomber as a crew chief for a few years. The pilot testifies to Marvel Mystery Oil as it helped extend the life of the engines. He says he got almost 1300 hours on the engines, compared to 1000 hours as recommended for major overhaul: the compression tests at the change out was still within factory specs. At $80,000 for a zero time engine change-out, it was worth it.
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Old 07-07-2020, 09:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydernut View Post
Diesel Fuel collects water. Water grows algae. Algae can clog filters, injectors, etc.... SeaFoam is an excellent product to use to clean Fuel systems. It's recommended at Fuel Filter Change for tough jobs. Fill the new filter(s) with SeaFoam. Start the engine, run for 30 seconds to get the SeaFoam in the fuel rail and injectors. Shut the engine off anf go have a cup of coffee. Give the SeaFoam 30minutes+ to work. Start the engine and drive it. stop/go, highway, a good 1/2 hour run. Stop and put the correct SeaFoam mix in the tank and fill with fresh Diesel fuel and dive it home. You'll love the difference.
This thread is about a Ford 6.8 liter V10 gasoline engine.
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Old 07-07-2020, 10:41 PM   #11
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"Spec of dirt" in the fuel rail? Sounds questionable, and most likely a SWAG. Additives are not going to get this dirt past the injector screens, or it would have already passed through. Sounds like a "we don't actually know, but we'll gladly charge you a fee to find out what's wrong". A OBD-II code will point you in the right direction, and not a guess and by golly.
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Old 07-08-2020, 04:30 AM   #12
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Where to go to get accurate read of code?

DW, you are right

Seems "mechanic" at RV dealer was shooting in the dark with code read and one or two other things

Today, I am taking MH to a truck shop where I think I will get a real mechanic and will have em reread code.......and install beloved hubcaps properly (with 2 lock nuts instead of the 1 which RV "mechanic" said is all that's needed)

Takes time and effort to find the right place to work on and really care about our motor homes, huh. I don't mind paying the freight as long as it's done correctly.
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Old 07-08-2020, 05:36 AM   #13
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Please let us know what comes of it and what the code is. For the future, you could pick up an OBD adapter for Bluetooth and install TorqPro on your phone. Cost about 22 bucks total.
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Old 07-08-2020, 05:45 AM   #14
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You can buy an OBDII code reader for $20. You’d spend way more than that in fuel just driving the motorhome to a shop to have them read the code.
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Old 07-08-2020, 04:43 PM   #15
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Code--New info

Reputable shop tested code for check engine light (on) today

Is sensor (elec) which activates fuel rail and NOT a blockage of furl rail itself

So, no need to run SeaFoam to clear "spec of dirt" in fuel rail

Running excellent so I will live with check engine light lit

Glad to have gotten this checked by reputable shop
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Old 07-08-2020, 05:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexington 283 View Post
Reputable shop tested code for check engine light (on) today

Is sensor (elec) which activates fuel rail and NOT a blockage of furl rail itself

So, no need to run SeaFoam to clear "spec of dirt" in fuel rail

Running excellent so I will live with check engine light lit

Glad to have gotten this checked by reputable shop
The CEL would not have lit if there wasn't a problem. Why don't you get it fixed? What happens if something more serious occurs and you don't know it because the CEL was already lit? I understand, it's your coach, but personally, I'm too OCD to drive around with a light like that constantly on.
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Old 07-08-2020, 05:15 PM   #17
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Good advice-Thanks Eric

Well taken advice. Thanks

Prob will get fixed eventually.......when I can afford.....

Bothers me too

BTW we had a Chevy Celebrity (remember them?) that went 100,000 miles with that dratted light on.....NO excuse though
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Old 07-08-2020, 07:54 PM   #18
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P0191? I would get that fixed sooner rather than later. That is the fuel rail pressure sensor.
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Old 07-08-2020, 08:40 PM   #19
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probably run rich and wipe out a cat converter, get it fixed. what was the code?
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Old 07-09-2020, 04:34 AM   #20
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Fuel rail sensor (Code unknown)

OK, you convinced me. I'll get it fixed

And, yes I HATE seeing that check engine light LIT

What shop is best to fix? Should I search out a Ford dealer to fix?

My regular Ford dealer does no work on RV's but there are other Ford dealerships nearby

Has anyone else had a fuel rail sensor go bad? How expensive was it to fix?
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