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Old 07-03-2020, 04:36 AM   #1
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Second trip--Breaker tripping in hot afternoon

This 28' Lexington is new to us, so bear with me

First trip went with no probs in 95 degree heat. No breaker trips.

Second trip--AC breaker popped in late afternoon

Park host came to site and said husband had recently changed out elec plug in on park site since our last time on same site 3 weeks ago.

Third day in late afternoon in 98 degrees, AC breaker popped again. Park Ranger came to site and changed out park breaker and we had no more breaker pops.

So, I assume this was a park elec prob but am not sure.

What do you think? This MH is 15 years old.

Finally, that elec box holding breaker sometimes comes on (buzzes) for maybe 20 minutes and then goes off. Is this normal? What is it doing?

Thanks. I'm a newbie just trying to learn.......and be safe.

We love this 283 Lex with only 49K
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Old 07-03-2020, 06:36 AM   #2
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Is it the breaker at the power pedestal or the breaker in your rv that was tripping? If it is the one outside, it was probably there breaker/problem. I have been at a campground before that the outside breaker sounded like bacon frying. I noticed it when I reset it one morning after it tripped. It was replaced and all was good after that.
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Old 07-03-2020, 06:42 AM   #3
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Sounds like problem was at the Park. Keep asking lots of knowledge on the forum.
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Old 07-03-2020, 07:45 AM   #4
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Did you check the voltage? Could be low voltage and it may be intermittent so just checking once might not be enough. Low voltage will cause an increase in amps to compensate. Also could be a bad breaker.
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Old 07-03-2020, 08:24 AM   #5
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if they changed the breaker for the Power Pedestal 30amp outlet you are plugging into at the campground, and you are doing all of the 'same' things you were doing when it happened, then yes, it sounds like there was a 'weak/overused' and 'overly-sensitive' breaker for that site. Changing it out with a new one can many times solve these problem of 'nuisance' tripping, which sounds like you encountered - we have, too.

A 30amp breaker/outlet should easily handle your roof air conditioner, microwave, and other stuff all the same time.
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Old 07-03-2020, 07:14 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Lexington 283 View Post
Finally, that elec box holding breaker sometimes comes on (buzzes) for maybe 20 minutes and then goes off. Is this normal? What is it doing?
The fact that they replaced the connection between trips, then the problem went away when they fixed the connection, points to it being a park electric problem.
However, the fact that is 'buzzes' might be a problem. I'd report it and find out if it's normal.
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:27 AM   #7
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if they changed the breaker for the Power Pedestal 30amp outlet you are plugging into at the campground, and you are doing all of the 'same' things you were doing when it happened, then yes, it sounds like there was a 'weak/overused' and 'overly-sensitive' breaker for that site. Changing it out with a new one can many times solve these problem of 'nuisance' tripping, which sounds like you encountered - we have, too.

A 30amp breaker/outlet should easily handle your roof air conditioner, microwave, and other stuff all the same time.
It may not run both the AC and the microwave. Or AC draws 18 amps and a microwave draws 13 amps

The converter is drawing 8 amps you can see how this wont' be workable.

18+13+8=49

When we had a 30 amp 5er we could run the AC and anything else except the Microwave and DWs Hair Dryer. Either one would pop the 30 amp breaker.
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Old 07-04-2020, 05:09 PM   #8
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Thanks guys. Will get checked. Here are a couple more issues

Based on your comments, I'm gonna take my MH to a reliable shop and get inside breaker box checked thoroughly for buzzing and current levels.

I don't mind shutting down AC in order to run micro if running both will pop breaker but would like to know how much system SHOULD handle. I have no idea.

On another subject:
MH dealer already checked constant yellow "check engine" light. Said it's fuel rail and prob ON due to speck of dirt in fuel rail and will prob stay off if and when MH is run more regularly. It's come back on again after dealer cancelled......so, I'm gonna get checked by a more reliable mechanic.

On yet another subject:
Dealer's "mechanic" said rear hubcaps are meant to be held in place via only one locking cap ( I have twist tool to open/close). Manual says TWO locking caps per hubcap are needed, soooooo I prop won't trust dealer mechanic again.....
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lexington 283 View Post
Based on your comments, I'm gonna take my MH to a reliable shop and get inside breaker box checked thoroughly for buzzing and current levels.

I don't mind shutting down AC in order to run micro if running both will pop breaker but would like to know how much system SHOULD handle. I have no idea.
This should help you with a general idea. My AC actually draws 18 though not the 15.7 the chart says. And remember yoru Converter is always running so add that to the mix as well.

https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/electr...eloadchart.php

Quote:
On another subject:
MH dealer already checked constant yellow "check engine" light. Said it's fuel rail and prob ON due to speck of dirt in fuel rail and will prob stay off if and when MH is run more regularly. It's come back on again after dealer cancelled......so, I'm gonna get checked by a more reliable mechanic.
They have a Book Rate they can charge for repairs.

Since it is a MH not a truck probably will take longer than they can charge for so they don't want to do it
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Old 07-05-2020, 05:45 AM   #10
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This list was from Turbs several years ago

120 Volt AC Amp Ratings
Appliance or Electronic Equipment Estimated Amps
Air Conditioner (X number of A/C) 12-16 Amps
Blender 5-6 Amps
Coffee Maker 5-8 Amps
Compact Disc Player 1 Amp
Computer (Laptop) 2-3 Amps
Converter 1-8 Amps
Crock Pot 1-2 Amps
Curling Iron <1 Amp
Drill 2-6 Amps
Electric Blanket 0.5-1.5 Amps
Electric Fan 1 Amp
Electric Water Heater 9-13 Amps
Electric Skillet 6-12 Amps
Hair Dryer 5-12 Amps
Iron 5-10 Amps
Light (60 watt % 120V) <1 Amp
Microwave 8-13 Amps
Microwave (Convection Oven) 13 Amps
Refrigerator in AC mode 5-8 Amps
Space Heater 8-13 Amps
Television 1.5-4 Amps
Toaster 7-10 Amps
Vacuum (handheld) 2-6 Amps
VCR 1-2 Amps
Washer/Dryer 14-16Amps

12 Volt DC Amp Ratings
Appliance or Accessory Estimated Amps
Aisle Light 1 Amp
CO Detector 1 Amp
Fluorescent Light 1-2 Amps
Furnace 10-12 Amps
LP Gas Leak Detector 0.5 Amp
Overhead lights (Per Bulb) 1 Amp
Porch Light 1 Amp
Power Roof Vent 1.5 Amps
Radio/Stereo 4 Amps
Range Hood (Fan & Light) 2-3 Amps
Refrigerator (LP Gas Mode) 1.5- 2 Amps
Security System 1 Amp
Television (12 volt) 4-5 Amps
TV Antenna Booster <1 Amp
TV Antenna Booster 12 Volt outlet Up to 8 Amps
Variable Speed Ceiling / Vent Fan 4 Amps
VCR Recorder / Player 2 Amps
Water Pump 4 Amp

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Old 07-05-2020, 06:12 AM   #11
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Thanks for list Oaklevel

Very useful.......especially for us newbies

So it it normal for my converter to come on and buzz for maybe 20 minutes while motor home is plugged into shore power?

Is this buzzing to recharge batts while AC is running?

I now learned that amps are being used continuously by hot water heater, fridge, lights, TV and converter itself...so is buzzing OK to recharge two coach batteries or should converter NOT buzz while plugged into shore power?

Thanks----I'm prob a bit OCD over this......
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Old 07-05-2020, 07:50 AM   #12
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We only have one battery but our converter NEVER buzzes.

While it is charging do the lights alternately go dim and bright. That is what out=r old WFCO converter. Replaced with Progressive Dynamics and problem solved.
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Old 07-05-2020, 11:58 PM   #13
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Lexington 283,

To put on your 《To do》 list as an annual maintenance (can be done by yourself if handy):

On a bright day, disconnect all power sources; AC main cable and DC negative side of house batteries.
Open your main AC power panel and tighten all scews, nuts and bolts at every breaker and connectors that you see(just snug and tight, no excess); replace cover.
Do the same at all other electrical apparatus you find, converter, teansfer switch, plugs, etc.
Do the same on DC power equipment you have.
You will be surprised how time and riding have made those connections loose and how much money you have saved.
Also check that all is clean and use dielectric lube if needed.
Hours of pleasure!

On our 2012 Lexi, we have a DPDT switch that select the use of the A/C or the microwave; it helps to manage the use of AC power and prevent tripping of the 30amps main breaker.
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Old 07-21-2020, 10:49 AM   #14
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If the intermittent buzzing you're hearing is coming from your panel/converter it is most likely the converter cooling fan.
It should be mostly silent, so as someone suggested, remove all power, tighten all connections and clean the fan.
Before covering everything back up, reconnect shore power, turn on lights to load the converter and see if the fan or whatever still buzzes.
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Old 07-21-2020, 04:51 PM   #15
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If it was mentioned already I missed it.

Circuit breakers are not a "forever" device. They may be good for a couple thousand "switched" operations but the general consensus is they should be replaced after 5-6 fault trips (overloads).

Now the question is "how many campers before you caused the campground 30 amp breaker to trip before you?

If I owned a campground I'd be buying breakers (and receptacles) by the gross.
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Old 07-21-2020, 05:18 PM   #16
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[QUOTE=TitanMike;2372767

If I owned a campground I'd be buying breakers (and receptacles) by the gross.[/QUOTE]
Most of the campgrounds I have been involved with do. You would be amazed how often people drive away still connected to the pedestal.
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Old 07-21-2020, 07:47 PM   #17
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Most of the campgrounds I have been involved with do. You would be amazed how often people drive away still connected to the pedestal.
Self serve gas stations solved the problem gith gas hoses years ago. They installed breakaway couplings so the hose separated from the pump. Kep the pump from getting pulled off it's base. Customers get charged a large fee to re-couple.
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Old 07-29-2020, 05:46 AM   #18
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Update report

Third trip---Same park----same site. Just returned home July 28, 2020.

No prob at all with inside breaker tripping, so park's replacement of THEIR breaker on outside shore seems to have been the prob

And, I've learned, thanks to you guys, that buzzing occasionally within converter is fan cooling the system and is normal. Thanks.......Jerry
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