CEL on and wont try to crank

[cousin01]

Wife is on the road with the Solera. Driving fine and stopped for lunch.

Came back out and now she gets a check engine light and the engine will not even try to crank. AAA tried a jump start but nothing.

Have checked: in park, steering wheel not jammed, different key fob, reset gas cap.

Scan gauge shows very low voltage 11.6 v but still would not start with a jump.

Scan gauge shows no codes but not sure wife is able to pull them.

Any ideas?

[rattleNsmoke]

11.6 volts are pathetically poor for any 12v vehicle battery. You should have at least 12.2-12.4 volts to operate properly. My 'guess' without actually being there is that your battery is discharged to a point that even a jump start won't help. It happens. My son had the exact same thing happen in his 2006 Jeep. A 2 year old battery cranked fine, then after driving a short time, shutting down then attempting a re-start, the battery was stone dead. Have AAA replace the battery then get the charging system checked ASAP. Good luck.

[Nats]

Just to make sure, check fuse #23. If blown, change to 25 amp and retry.

[cousin01]

Thanks Smoke...

These Sprinter based RV's are a unique breed. Hoping for some info from some owners on this. Can't inspect vehicle myself.

Diesel tech on his way but I want to be armed with the best possible info/questions based Sprinter experience. Trying to avoid flatbed to the MB dealer and a lost weekend, but not optimisic

Thanks
again.

[rattleNsmoke]

Please keep us posted so other Diesel Solera owners can make note if a similar problem occurs.

[TURBS]

First of all the cel is on with koeo normally. "Key on engine off"
There probably is no codes.
Sounds like .
Blown start fuse and or crank fuse.

Bad starter?

Bad battery cable?

Bad ground?

Starter relay?



TURBS

"SABRE OWNERS UNITED"

[cousin01]

Thanks

Good to know about normal state of CEL with koeo.

[JLeising]

Originally Posted by Nats

Just to make sure, check fuse #23. If blown, change to 25 amp and retry.

X2. Very regularly reported problem on this forum.

[Still Kickin]

Can you have her check the #23 position fuse. It is usually the cause of no crank issue. It's unlikely the chassis battery is that low, unless your Alternator went in flight and drained it down that low. Either way, let us know what it was.

[cousin01]

Just havin a beer and I'd buy a round for all of you guys if I could.

Tow truck guy waiting for wrench to drop driveline. I had him, check fuse 23 and....BINGO.. Replaced and Solera started right up.

He will follow wife and nieces to auto parts store to get a few spares.

Thanks to everyone.

[Still Kickin]

Gentlemen, free beer on Cousin, his wife has gone camping, sounds like a great offer! Glad your back in business.

[Nats]

Originally Posted by cousin01

Just havin a beer and I'd buy a round for all of you guys if I could.

Tow truck guy waiting for wrench to drop driveline. I had him, check fuse 23 and....BINGO.. Replaced and Solera started right up.

He will follow wife and nieces to auto parts store to get a few spares.

Thanks to everyone.

Congrats!

Happened to me on the second day I had my Solera.

When you buy your spares, make sure you replace it with a 25 amp, I have not had the problem since.

I know that Mercedes is known for and people pay a premium for that "German Engineering" but I can't believe they missed this one that bad.

Anybody know, do the new ones still have this problem?

[Ogsarg]

I always cringe a little when I hear people say to put in bigger fuses because they had one blow. Unless you understand the circuit and the ratings of everything in it, you are putting yourself at risk for something potentially far worse than a blown fuse.

Fuses are sized based on the expected current draw in a circuit plus some extra amount that the engineers deemed to be a normal variance plus an additional safety factor. All the components in the circuit are rated based on the fuse size, primarily the wiring. Essentially the fuse is designed to be the weakest component in the circuit so that it will blow when there is a short circuit or excessive current draw.

When you put in a bigger fuse, the wiring may not be large enough to handle that load and could potentially melt or worse in the event you have a real problem.

It is possible that MB just didn't factor enough safety factor into the fuse rating and the wiring and other components are fine with a larger fuse, but unless you know that for certain, you're taking a risk.

It's possible that the fuse blew because there really is a problem in the circuit causing an excessive load and you probably need to have it checked out and not cover it up by installing a larger fuse.

I'd much rather carry a few spare fuses and replace one every once in a while than deal with a burnt wire harness or fried component.

[Nats]

This is not a case of randomly recommending replacing a fuse with a larger one or removing a fuse from a circuit. This is a well known issue with Sprinters:

2010 Starter Fuse (20amp) blown - Sprinter-Forum

www.aev.com/.../SPRINTER%20NO%20CRANK%20NO%20START%20.pdf

Sometimes engineers make mistakes, even the ones at Mercedes.

I know, I'm an engineer!

[rattleNsmoke]

Although the fuse replacement allowed the engine to crank\start, I still question an 11.6v static reading across the battery terminals.

[cousin01]

That bears some looking into. I'm not sure the measurement was taken reliably.

Thanks


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[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by rattleNsmoke

Although the fuse replacement allowed the engine to crank\start, I still question an 11.6v static reading across the battery terminals.

Buy one of these, Multifunctional Voltage Tester Voltmeter w/ Dual USB Charging Port for Car - Black + Silver - Free Shipping - DealExtreme works great with no hassel. Check the chassis bat and the house bats through the 12v cigarette lighter/ accessory plugs. Bet your not at 11.6v