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Old 10-15-2010, 07:29 AM   #1
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help with furnace draining

Hello group,
My solera is in the driveway and I am investigating the procedure to drain all water. I can't find the freah water drain plug ( although I'm sure the dealer did show it to me ) and I can't seem to loosen the anode plug at the base of the furnace in order to drain it. Is there a special tool for this purpose. I just about broke my wrist trying to loosen it with an adjustable wrench, Is it just in there very snugly or is there a special tool>thanks for any suggestions.

Andy
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Old 10-15-2010, 07:34 AM   #2
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Furnace? Your furnace has water in it?
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Old 10-15-2010, 07:58 AM   #3
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If you are referring to the anode rod on the water heater, it usually takes an 1 1/6th inch socket and a breaker bar to remove that. I can see why an adjustable wrench woudn't work....sometimes those puppies are in there tight.
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:54 AM   #4
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I used an 1 1/6" socket w/ an extension on a ratchet. How old is your trailer?

I'd stay away from the adj' wrenches as you're liable to mess up the flats on the head of the anode, then you'll really have problems getting it out.
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:31 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by revrnd View Post
I used an 1 1/6" socket w/ an extension on a ratchet. How old is your trailer?

I'd stay away from the adj' wrenches as you're liable to mess up the flats on the head of the anode, then you'll really have problems getting it out.

Ditto. and
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:35 PM   #6
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The anode rod in the water heater is subjected to a lot of heat and the threads really lock together tightly. A heavy duty wratchet or breaker bar is the way to go.

The first time I did mine two years ago, I tried to use an adjustable wrench, the wrench slipped and I cut my thumb right down to the bone on a piece of sheet metal. I still have a scar an inch long as a reminder of my stupidity.
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:47 PM   #7
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ok I'm not too bright. Of course it's the water heater. thanks all for the advice for the newbie................
andy
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Old 10-16-2010, 06:36 PM   #8
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Brania,
Don't forget to bypass the water heater and remove your water filter and put the glass back on. Then you should drain the water tank. There should be an access panel in the "basement" to the valve. There is a hose in the sewerage compartment that you can remove the cap, put it in a gallon of RV antifreeze, turn on your water pump and then turn on your faucets until the water turns good and pink. If you do the kitchen and bath sink you will use @ 1 gallon of antifreeze. Put a new bottle of antifreeze on the hose and repeat the process with the toilet (don't forget the sprayer) and the shower. If I have any antifreeze left over I put it in the drains.
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Old 10-16-2010, 06:39 PM   #9
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Brania,
When you put th anode rod back in be careful to not crossthread it. It is heavy on the end and easy to do
George
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:43 PM   #10
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A couple wraps of teflon tape will prevent leaks and make it easier to remove next time. Just make sure the tank is full of water before turning it on next spring or bad things can happen - don't ask me how I know!
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:07 PM   #11
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Just a clarification, I think the mentioned socket size is 1 1/16" not 1 1/6". Just finished doing mine.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomjsas View Post
Just a clarification, I think the mentioned socket size is 1 1/16" not 1 1/6". Just finished doing mine.

Oops.....my bad. 1 & 1/16th inch is what I meant in my #3 post.
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:24 AM   #13
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Just a clarification, I think the mentioned socket size is 1 1/16" not 1 1/6". Just finished doing mine.
Thanks for catching that. My bad.
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Old 10-17-2010, 11:29 AM   #14
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Thanks for catching that. My bad.
Since 2 of us both said the socket size was 1 1/6th, seems to me that it just has to be correct.

Something about the / looking like a 1 to this slightly dyslexic brain.
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