Looking for some experience here. I have 5,000 miles on my Solera and love it overall. I've read much on the tire pressure and blow-out and valve stem issues so I am rather blurry on the whole mess. I am new to dually rear wheels and had no idea they could be so troublesome.
Mine has rubber valve stems in the wheels and metal extensions. I plan to tie them to the wheels to avoid the blowout problem and will probably install the metal stems and TPMS upon rotation.
But then I am confused on rotations. I read that some rotate according to MB pattern and some do not. Some don't even rotate tires on the dually rears.
If I put metal valve stems so the inner tires can be maintained and monitored, then have them rotated - won't the stems have to be changed to the new inner wheels? Seems a bit excessive?
I'll stop and see what you guys with thousands of miles under your belts have to say on this issue.
I just want to be safe and trouble free as possible.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Rich
There's a small hooked extension on the outer duel tire and the inside tire is straight out, so all that should be needed is to change the extension on the tires. I had almost 15000 on my before I had them rotated I had new valve stems put on at that time also. If you go to have metal valve stems put on make sure the tire company knows it's for a Mercedes sprinter as it takes a special valve stem to fit in the rim.
Thanks hkreck. I guess that means you cannot rotate inner to outer and front back due to metal stems in the wheels? (I am assuming that metal stems do not have extensions?) Or do they too have extensions that make it possible to move the wheels around without reinstalling the stems into the wheels?
So I guess my confusion is in the periodic rotation (assuming that is warranted) of the tires according to MB recommendations. At that time the metal stems (if one piece) would not fit the inner rear or the front. Am I missing something?
Adding to this confusion is the post I read that said he didn't rotate the duals at all. Another stated that he had the crossfire pressure equalizing system and left it alone long term.
Any value to those?
Thanks for bearing with my ignorance on this issue.
Rich
OK I think I confused you on this, see if I can explain it better. The metal stems for the MB sprinter is a regular metal stem which fits in the grove of the MB wheel. Other than that it's just like any other tire stem. You can put extensions on them and then just move the extensions around when or if you rotate the tires. I have heard of people just going without rotating because the tires are on an RV which doesn't always get driven around like other vehicles.
Just got back today from Discount Tire. Tried to buy their metal valve stems, but they do not fit my Solera wheels. Searched Google and cannot find a source to buy valve stems that will fit. Does anyone have any leads on where to buy? I sure would like to replace my valve stems before I head out on our big trip to Michigan next week! And also to replace my braided extensions with the air-flexx, if I only knew what size to buy. I have gotten conflicting sizes on a separate thread as to what lengths are needed for front, inner and outer rear.
Try this place. They have rigid valve stems that do not require extensions. If you have wheels with round holes, this set should work for you. It includes stems for the front wheels. DL1SP13FR Chrome Duallyvalve Kit W/ Front Stems. You can also call them and they will provide info.
Try this place. They have rigid valve stems that do not require extensions. If you have wheels with round holes, this set should work for you. It includes stems for the front wheels. DL1SP13FR Chrome Duallyvalve Kit W/ Front Stems. You can also call them and they will provide info.
Definitely call first, took me three times but I finally got the correct extensions.
Evidently there are a variety of wheels that were installed on Sprinters!
I started this thread in hopes of answering a couple questions that I hope we will get to.
1. With the metal valve stems - with no extensions - do you not rotate the tires? Is anyone doing it this way and to what benefit?
2. With metal valve stems - short ones with adequate extensions for the inner wheels - you can then rotate the tires as advised. But then, do you not open yourself to the flaws of the extensions addressed in the double blowout thread??
It is tough to sort out the pros and cons of each practice. I am sure I will have to choose and hope to be able to choose from the best experiences of all who reply.
Really I think the issue comes down to what you are trying to accomplish.
The simplest approach is to just have the standard wheel stems with no extensions. You can rotate your tires easily but it is a little more difficult to check pressure and add air.
Once you have decided that access to the standard stems on a dually is a royal pain, you can go with extensions. With the metal extensions that attach to the standard stems and wheel covers you have the issue of possibly ripping the valve out of the wheel. That is why Forest River switched to the airflex type of extension although they too are not without their problems (internal stem actuation and inability to add a tire pressure monitoring system, TPMS).
In my case I was trying to the find the easiest way to add air and check pressure as well as incorporate a TPMS. I originally had the standard valves with metal extensions. To reduce the risk of losing the wheel covers, I zip tied my wheel covers to the wheels. What I didn’t like was the way the added weight of the TPMS sensors bent the support brackets out towards the perimeter of the wheels. Because of this I decided to go with the solid metal stems. These work perfectly with the only drawbacks being their cost and the tire rotation issue. Not to mention it took me 3 trips to the tire shop before I finally received the correct extensions (that’s why I recommend you call first before placing your order, it is best if you can send them photos of your wheels).
Unfortunately I don’t get the opportunity to put a lot of miles on my motorhome since I’m still working. When it comes time to rotate my tires I’ll have them move the stems to new locations and replace the rubber gaskets on the stems at the same time.
There isn’t a “best” solution. It’s really what capabilities you want to have with your motorhome.
one piece metal tire valve stems"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taylorgso Got them here (here's a link) - Your Tire Shop Supply | Supplies for Tire Shops
You might want to go ahead and give them a call. Speak to Bill Falkenborg
Phone is 800-300-2674
Bill has apparently sold Metal stem sets for several Sprinter Motorhomes. He knew exactly what I was talking about when I called. I got this referral from another post on the forum.
I bought these Tire-Man: Kit #4-6DS Upgrade 18 Hand Hole Wheel one piece stems. I can really only rotate from side to side without changing stems. Having these and my TST 507RV tire monitor has made my 8k mile (so far) trip to Alaska worry free.
The link I previously posted is for the later round hole wheels. They do have both available. I understand that the Tire man stems require trimming metal from the front wheel covers.
Don't know technical answer to your question. This is my 3rd motorhome and I do not rotate. My 2012 Solera 24S came with the fiberglass valve stems where there was no way to check or add air to tires. Dealer told me it was a safety / liability issue on the part of Forest River, because of the many blowouts and damage as some of you have reported in past on this forum.
My dealer, in the Seattle area, referred me to a Les Schwab tire shop which the dealer uses and also does big-rig 18 wheelers as well as motorhomes. The Les Schwab shop installed a nice, flexing, metal, valve-stem extension, which they sell and attaches to the rear wheel covers on my Solera M/H.
I now have 28,600 miles on my Solera M/H and no problems. However, just like a big-rig 18 wheeler driver should do, I am vigilant in inspecting my tires and valve stems and wheel covers pre-trip, on stops, and at the end of day.
I do not rotate tires, because I do not believe there is value in my time and money I would spend to save the tires from wearing prematurely. In my case, the tires and sidewalls would show signs of rotting from the sun and environment sooner than the tread would actually wear to the point of needing replacement.
I rotate tires on my car at each oil change, but to do so with a motorhome adds a considerable cost to the service procedure. I think it all comes down to how much does it cost to rotate tires on a Solera M/H vs. how much to replace with new tires.
I haven't done it yet but my intention is to get the dually valve stem kit but get shorter straight stems (around 2.5 to 3 inch) and use them on the front as well as inner rear. That will allow for rotating tires without changing the stems. I don't mind using a trucker style gauge for checking the pressure.
I'm of the opinion that rotation is important to tire life. I'm also a believer in following manufacturers recommendations.
My '15 Solera 24s was driven from the factory to the dealership in Oregon with 28 lbs of air in the inside rear duallies. The plastic Air-Flex extensions the came with it didn't properly seat or connect to the shrader valve preventing me from adding or measuring air pressure. I learned this only after driving it home. Of course, who checks tire pressures when buying a new RV? I went for the expensive steel extension solution. Enough on that topic.
My Continental tires are marked for 80 PSI while the motorhome is labelled for 60 PSI. I consider heat to be the most significant tire enemy. I use a Harbor Freight sourced non-contact, infrared thermometer to check tires whenever I stop for fuel or rest stop. I'm running the 80 pounds recommended on the tire. On a 80 degree day, the shade side tires run in the high 95 + or - degree range while the sunny side tires about 20 degree warmer (115 + or -). I'm happy with the 80 PSI and notice little if any change in handling or ride comfort. If a tire begins to lose pressure, the temperature will difference will be noticeable. Takes less than a minute to check all six tires.
As far as tire rotation, I would simply inspect the tires for tread depth and any unusual wear pattern along the edge. As far as I can figure, the rear tires carry about 7,000 lbs while the front carry about 3,500. The load per tire is pretty much equal and unless one takes corners at silly speeds, the wear on all the tires should be about the same negating the need for rotation.
One more comment about after market TPMS. The sensors on the end of each valve weight about 13 grams. Spinning at high speeds, those 13 grams exert alot of force on the valve stem base. The vendor(s) usual recommend metal stems BUT do not explicitly state they're required.
The photos show what happened to one of my rubber valve stems with 16k miles on it after only 200 miles with a TPMS Sensor. The others show the location of the new steel extensions on the duallies and the the kit itself. Also, I cannot attach aftermarket TPMS sensors to the installed, highly regarded metal stem - there is insufficient space to screw them on.
PS: The failed valve stem was from my Dodge Cummins pick up, not the Solera.
What brand are those Flow Through sensors? They look different than mine. I have the TireTracker TT 400C TPMS system. With the rear wheel covers on, there is no room to attach them.
Also, see the attached photo of my front wheel. The metal stem isn't long enough to extend outside the wheel cover.
Generally, every detail one expects to be routine seems excessively complex on the MB chassis.
Rich H.
Linear Mode
