Woes of Winterizing 24R

[Flydrifter]

In the process of winterizing the 24R, opened the rear compartment, to a well labeled valve, switched it, opened the access door which fell off in my hand, due to poor installation technique. It had a strip of double sided tape which neither stuck to the door or the hinge.

Opened the tank drain. All well. Dropped the dip tube in a jug of PINK, nice, just like my old 99 Lance slide in.

Went inside and bypassed the water heater which was behind a wooden panel with 6 screws, went ok, could have had a regular door but I understand that would add to the cost.

The water filter cartridge was not installed, so ran all faucets until pink. Great.

Except the filter housing only had about 3" of PINK.

Pulled the filter canister from the housing, which was wedged between the door and the carpet behind it.

Now the big question. How are you supposed to get the filter back on the housing

The room is 1/4" smaller than the canister.

Have you been cutting out the carpet? Carving up the doorframe?

I hope this is not a sign of things to come. It's falling apart faster than I can fix it, and I've only had it a week.

[DaveJordan]

Hmm. Not sure. In my case (2015 24R) the fit is very tight, but I can get it in. It's a bit more difficult with the cartridge in the cannister, because you've got to get the cartridge lined up correctly...but it does fit.

Dave

[Flydrifter]

Found another thread that indicated cutting a square of carpet out made it workable.

I'm not sure the guys that designed this thing ever really used one.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by Flydrifter

Found another thread that indicated cutting a square of carpet out made it workable.

I'm not sure the guys that designed this thing ever really used one.

I have covered this before. We have and we do. Trying to cram a lot of stuff into small spaces...sometimes the line does not always put them exactly where we ask.

[DCBnDLB]

Originally Posted by Flydrifter

In the process of winterizing the 24R, opened the rear compartment, to a well labeled valve, switched it, opened the access door which fell off in my hand, due to poor installation technique. It had a strip of double sided tape which neither stuck to the door or the hinge.

Opened the tank drain. All well. Dropped the dip tube in a jug of PINK, nice, just like my old 99 Lance slide in.

Went inside and bypassed the water heater which was behind a wooden panel with 6 screws, went ok, could have had a regular door but I understand that would add to the cost.

The water filter cartridge was not installed, so ran all faucets until pink. Great.

Except the filter housing only had about 3" of PINK.

Pulled the filter canister from the housing, which was wedged between the door and the carpet behind it.

Now the big question. How are you supposed to get the filter back on the housing

The room is 1/4" smaller than the canister.

Have you been cutting out the carpet? Carving up the doorframe?

I hope this is not a sign of things to come. It's falling apart faster than I can fix it, and I've only had it a week.

Hmmm - maybe slightly different with my 2015 24R. Not sure what you did on “opened tank drain” - was that the hot water tank? My steps were:

1. Drained black/grey tanks
2. Removed the water filter cartridge and dumped its contents. I did have to trim the styrofoam insulation in order to take the cartridge holder off.
3. Removed the 6 screws on inside panel to switch/bypass the 3 hot water valves.
4. Removed the drain plug on hot water heater.
5. Filled water tank with about 4 gals of antifreeze.
6. Pumped all faucets/toilet until pink.
7. Poured about 2 gals of antifreeze in drains (2 sinks/shower)
8. Poured a gallon of antifreeze through the toilet.
9. Could not determine when water line to pump manual switch should be set on winterize or normal. So I did all the above on normal and then switched it to winterize.

All in all this seemed easy.

Dave

[Mikegjax]

You put antifreeze in the fresh water tank? Should use the winterizing valve and pump to draw antifreeze into the system. Only need to drain the fresh water tank and no antifreeze.

[DCBnDLB]

Originally Posted by Mikegjax

You put antifreeze in the fresh water tank? Should use the winterizing valve and pump to draw antifreeze into the system. Only need to drain the fresh water tank and no antifreeze.

That makes sense but that is not what I'm reading in the FR Manual for Water System Winterization. After draining tanks, WH bypass valves, drain WH and removing filter, it states:

"5. Fill the tank above minimum water pump operation level with the RV antifreeze. (Use of a long funnel may be helpful.)"

Next step is turning pump on and opening cold side of water faucets until they flow pink.

To me that's putting antifreeze in the fresh water tank. Am I missing something??

As I mentioned earlier there is a valve behind the water pump panel (accessed via outside door) that has 2 positions; NORMAL and WINTERIZE. Maybe that is what you are referring to on pumping straight from antifreeze bottle? However there is absolutely no mention of this valve in manual! So I was only guessing that this valve prevents fresh water from going into the water tank.

[Mikegjax]

The Normal/Winterize valve allows you to winterize without putting antifreeze in the fresh water tank. It is not a big deal that you did. It just makes it more of a pain to flush the tank several times to completely purge the tank of antifreeze.

Next time you winterize just stick the hose connected to the valve into the antifreeze jug, select winterize on the valve and then turn the water pump on. Makes things a little easier.

There are other threads on the Solera forum that discuss winterizing.

BTW, the manual is pretty generic and not all RV's have the winterize valve.

Enjoy your rig! I love mine.

[Flybob]

Originally Posted by DCBnDLB

H
7. Poured about 2 gals of antifreeze in drains (2 sinks/shower)
8. Poured a gallon of antifreeze through the toilet.

You are just trying to fill the "U traps" in the drains which should only require 1-2 cups of antifreeze. Any more than that simply runs into the black or grey water tanks.

[DCBnDLB]

Thanks for all the advice. It seems like this year was an overkill! Live and learn!

Regrettably the manual is not really a manual - but general guidance material.

[caper]

That makes sense but that is not what I'm reading in the FR Manual for Water System Winterization. After draining tanks, WH bypass valves, drain WH and removing filter, it states:

The owner manuals are generic and are not unit specific. That is why they recommended putting the antifreeze in FW tank and not using the winterizing valve.

[Rivnut]

BE sure to support that FR1 water filter bowl with leverage to the up position when you put it back on and add pressure, if it's FR1 water filter, they blow off and flood the camper. Look for water filters in the forum.

[Jim D.]

How about removing the drawer and adjusting the valves and then reinstalling the drawer. Lots easier than playing with those six screws.

Jim D.

[lacamastraveler]

I'm headed back to my summer home in Bend earlier this year and will need to winterize (cold nights in Bend). In addition to flipping the bypass valve in the outside compartment, do I turnoff the upper valve in this picture. . the one that goes to the red hose? Thanks.

[Mikegjax]

No picture!

[lacamastraveler]

Yesterday I posted the following with what I thought was a photo. No photo. So I am trying again. Hopefully this works.

I'm headed back to my summer home in Bend earlier this year and will need to winterize (cold nights in Bend). In addition to flipping the bypass valve in the outside compartment, do I turnoff the upper valve in this picture. . the one that goes to the red hose? Thanks.

[Jim D.]

There are THREE (3) valves in with the water heater. Turn all three to their other positions. Winterize and then return them to their original positions, then you don't have to return to the water heater when you want to unwinterize. By the way, I see you removed that compartment cover. That's not necessary. Open the drawer all the way and then you can reach in and adjust the valves. Removing those six screws is a PITA.

[lacamastraveler]

Jim ~ thanks for the info! I saw only two valves but now know to look for 3. And double thanks for telling me to remove the door vs. the panel.

[Jim D.]

You don't even have to remove the drawer. Just pull it out till it stops and you can reach your hand/arm in back of the drawer and adjust the valves.

Jim D.

[bclemens]

I just gave the go head to add a winterizing take up tube to all units. Should make things easier. Video coming soon...as soon as show season is over and I unbury myself.