Bad sway on the highway

[tonyz1]

Originally Posted by jd50i

Your setup looks identical to mine just branded differently. I would also agree it is your weight distribution, I do not have sway problems with my 2016 F150 XLT and I do not turn the sway control off.
If you do turn it off, be careful, if the truck was dampening sway it could be a lot worse with the system off.

I agree with jd50i. Check your weights at CAT scale and adjust accordingly. Just mentioned the built in sway control as it pertains to my setup. Please don't turn it off without first making sure your setup is correct and I'm certainly not recommending to turn it off. Again, just my observation with my particular setup.

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[asquared]

As others have said check your weights. Low tongue weight percentage (too much weight behind axles) will induce sway. Full water tanks do not help the situation. How easy is it to snap your bars up? If they are easily snapped up they are not transferring enough weight. You should need to raise the rear end of your truck using the trailer. Sounds strange I know. When hooked up and weighing you want the front axle loaded weight as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. If it weighs a lot less than unloaded you are not transferring enough weight.

[Boomerweps]

One thing to try is to pump up your tires some IF they are rated for it. I have the same size Castle Rocks in load range D on my TT but with a single axle and my trailer sticker says to inflate them to 65psi. That would stiffen them up some.

[alain h]

Originally Posted by asquared

As others have said check your weights. Low tongue weight percentage (too much weight behind axles) will induce sway. Full water tanks do not help the situation. How easy is it to snap your bars up? If they are easily snapped up they are not transferring enough weight. You should need to raise the rear end of your truck using the trailer. Sounds strange I know. When hooked up and weighing you want the front axle loaded weight as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. If it weighs a lot less than unloaded you are not transferring enough weight.

I have to raise the the back of the truck about 6 inches to snap the bars on the third link

[ralphieracer]

Had same issue with my 16 F150 CC Twin Turbo equipped with max tow package, pulling a Flagstaff 29 RKWS.Not saying my issue is same as yours but... Added ten ply tire on truck, still had. Played with Hitch and weight set up, even went to different WDH, still had. Added Air Bags, still had some. Went to F250 CC and still had some, but better. Thought it was all sway, Finally noticed trailer was actually rocking slightly side to side from side wall flex when towing for some distance. Castle Rock tires load range too close to trailer weight.When getting hot from towing started flexing in side walls. Increased load range and took off Castle rocks, now tows like it should and can drive with one hand on the wheel if I want to.

[TheGerman]

Have a look at this page from Ford's towing guide. Note specifically that Ford recommends *not* to recover all weight on the front axle which is different from the common wisdom. Maybe try use one more link on the chain.

But weigh everything first as suggested already.

[D W]

Originally Posted by alain h

I have to raise the the back of the truck about 6 inches to snap the bars on the third link

That's pretty much in the realm of normal. Your bars appear parallel with tongue, which is good. You don't want too much weight transfer to the front axle. Before you start throwing "Benjamins" at it, hit the scales and get your numbers. Then work from there. It could be as simple as weight distribution (weights & balances), in the TT. As other have stated, correct tire pressures on TV and TT are critical according to your load.

[RitaB]

One thing I noticed wasn't mentioned. I've had that same setup since I started pulling my TT 12 years ago and I was taught that the friction sway bar helps to dampen any sway. It has to be tightened enough for it to work. I was told because I was a woman to hand tighten it as much as I could then give it 1/4 turn using the breaker bar.
Also you need to remove it before you try to back into your campsite. I bent one bar because I forgot to do it.

[AdamKam]

It looks like your chain is at a slight angle, readjusting them so they are at 90 degrees to the sway bar would help, also replacing tires with a higher load range would help.Shorter wheelbase TV's are more prone to sway. I have used the same setup you have with 3 different TT's 8000 to 10,000 with no problem, only difference is my TV is a long bed. There is nothing wrong with what you are using if set up properly. I presently tow a Puma 32RLQS with a Chevy 2500 WT long bed with the same setup, no problems.

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by alain h

We have a brand new 224 Rls vibe
We had our TT on the highway for a couple of times now
And both time I’m having a very hard time keeping this thing on the road due to the severe sway
In Manitoba our main highway is east west and of course 75 % of the time the wind is from north south
So cross wind all the time
My tow vehicle is a brand new 2017 xlt with full tow package
I have to say it’s a bit of a joke what ford tow package is
The first thing I replace was the tire going from a koyotires to BF Goodrich TA k02
I run them on 55 psi when towing
My TT tire are Chinese Castle Rock they appear to have very soft side walls the are inflated to 50 psi as per spec .
I have you topical equalizer system with one sway bar control
Makes no difference
The max speed on our highway is 100 k today I had to slow down to 85 to 90 to keep it on the road
You can’t keep your hand off the wheel, have to conter steer all the time or it will put you in the ditch
I see other units passing me with the same truck and bigger rigs then mine
The hitch was install at the dealer
I’m thinking of putting air suspension on my truck next year
I have included some pictures
Anyone else with the same problems
Or ideas
This is not my first TT
But this one is a hand full to steerAttachment 178111Attachment 178112Attachment 178113Attachment 178114

The bar chains needs to be straight up and down. Move the tongue attachment forward. It looks as if you are 'dropping' two links... 'drop three/four links. This will 'stiffen up' the back bumper and tongue and level out the truck and push more 'weight' to the front of the TV and back of the RV. This will help your sway and bouncing a lot. I have two sway bars on my unit.


When you get new tires, go to a higher 'Range', ie. C range to D or D range to E. My RV tires say to air up at 80psi Cold.

Look at your RV tires very closely... you may have one or more, where the belts are coming apart. Tire will mostly look fine but will have a 'lump or skew' in a small area. This will cause the RV to wander all over the place.

[rlh1957]

I would probably check with someone else to be certain that the WDH and sway control are installed correctly and matching your TV and rig. Not everyone that installs knows what they are doing and use the LAR method of engineering... "Looks About Right".


I have come to appreciate my eaz-lift ReCurve R6... Weight Distribution and Sway Control. I like the WD bars are curved on top, one piece each side to just slip in and lock in... No chains. It is a smooth ride and no sway.
Used it on my 2004 Titan and now on my '17 F250 SD with tow package. Just had to have it adjusted it at the hitch when I changed trucks. Could have probably done it myself but I don't have the big size wrench to work those big bolts.

[alain h]

Thanks for all the great help
But I was talking to my dealer and well
I believe the problem may be solved
It’s a stupid mistake but I did it
The sway control bar friction is adjusted true the lower bolt then you adjust the tension with the top handle
My lower bolt was almost all the way out
So I had almost no tension on the bar causing severe sway
[emoji848][emoji23]

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by alain h

Thanks for all the great help
But I was talking to my dealer and well
I believe the problem may be solved
It’s a stupid mistake but I did it
The sway control bar friction is adjusted true the lower bolt then you adjust the tension with the top handle
My lower bolt was almost all the way out
So I had almost no tension on the bar causing severe sway
[emoji848][emoji23]

'Your' sDealer is giving you cheap/skewed/junk advice. Your unit is 'swaying' for a reason.... what is that reason???? 'A' sway bar is used to reduce low grade swaying. A loose bolt at the bottom will effect the bar a little, but you still will be tightening it with the handle on 'the bar' at the top area. In your mind, this may help (a little) .... but find out why you have the sway in the first place. You have some more adjustments to do.

[RACarvalho]

Originally Posted by alain h

Anyone else with the same problems
Or ideas

I towed a ROO 23IKSS for 12K miles with a BMW X5 and never had a sway problem, even in Utah with high cross winds and I had/have a very similar WD hitch.
1 - put all the washers you can on that WD and keep the ball angled back the maximum you can.
2 - Set the chain in the hook in such a way that the front of the truck is at the same level of the truck unloaded level or within 1/8in.
3 - the final trailer position should be level.

If the above doesn't work, add another sway control.
For additional comfort and to eliminate the pushing of the semis when passing, add airtabs.

[elchilero53]

Based on your picture, your setup looks OK. I didn't see an anti-sway bar connected, though. Are you using one? Because of the sway, check your load distribution in the trailer. If your fresh-water tank is below the kitchen behind the axles and it is full, I would dump most of it and see if that helps.

[rlocicero]

It definitely is not the truck. I towed an 8500 lb h0liday rambler tt tith my f150 max tow ecoboost. I had some very minor sway and cured it with 10 ply e rated tires on the trailer..

[joeuncool]

Here is a CAT Scale how to:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mo5cJUZFv0

[jd50i]

Follow your trucks manual that states the trailer should be level or slightly nose down.


The sway bar should have the lower bolt set for the amount of sway control desired and the top handle tightened all of the way.


It sounds like either you need to read up on the hitch installation or have it checked out by a pro.

[yakmeat123]

I had a sway package like yours. My tundra and 27' Cougar did OK but I never really drove it super fast. On my new Surveyor 26.5 foot I had them put a Centerline towing system https://www.huskytow.com/product/hus...towing-system/ . Besides the additional weight and the normal rolling roads, the truck performed amazing all the way up to about 70+ mph. No sway at all. This is all assuming everything is OK with your truck.

I recommend that you have a dealer install this as there are angle, washer, and pin settings that need to be set up correctly for your truck.


https://www.huskytow.com/product/hus...towing-system/

[bikendan]

This is why I'm not a fan of old tech chains and friction bars WDHs.
I like the newer tech WDHs with integrated sway control, like the 4pt Equal-i-zer.