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Old 03-23-2023, 04:26 PM   #1
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First Trip Questions

I just got back from our first trip in the new Vibe and I have some questions. I have already figured I would change out the plastic Dometic 300 toilet with a 310 model.

1) Are the A/C vents adjustable (turnable)? One vent blows toward the stove and another blows toward the bedroom shade and it bangs during the night.

2) How would I remove the bedroom sliding door? It is not a pocket door. I want to mount a small television on that wall. It is just my wife and I and we don't plan on closing the door. It would also give me about 2" more space between the door and the bed.
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Old 03-23-2023, 05:07 PM   #2
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Answers

Quote:
Originally Posted by reubenray374 View Post
I just got back from our first trip in the new Vibe and I have some questions. I have already figured I would change out the plastic Dometic 300 toilet with a 310 model.

1) Are the A/C vents adjustable (turnable)? One vent blows toward the stove and another blows toward the bedroom shade and it bangs during the night.

2) How would I remove the bedroom sliding door? It is not a pocket door. I want to mount a small television on that wall. It is just my wife and I and we don't plan on closing the door. It would also give me about 2" more space between the door and the bed.
Replacing a Dometic 300 with a 310 has been reported to be a piece of cake. Hardest part is probably hanging your head over the toilet to disconnect the water feed.

All the A/C vents should rotate.

Can you post pictures of the sliding door? On the ones I'm familiar with, you:
  • First remove the bottom track or guides from the floor.
  • Then you lift the door to get the wheels free from the track they ride in.
  • Then push the door away from the track.
  • Then pull the bottom out, so the top comes down below the track area.
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Old 03-23-2023, 06:31 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
Replacing a Dometic 300 with a 310 has been reported to be a piece of cake. Hardest part is probably hanging your head over the toilet to disconnect the water feed.

All the A/C vents should rotate.

Can you post pictures of the sliding door? On the ones I'm familiar with, you:
  • First remove the bottom track or guides from the floor.
  • Then you lift the door to get the wheels free from the track they ride in.
  • Then push the door away from the track.
  • Then pull the bottom out, so the top comes down below the track area.
On my previous rv's the vents did rotate. I tried these, but I did not want to damage them.

My door is free floating - it does not have a bottom track. There is very little room to pull the bottom out. I can't get a picture right now being it is raining cats and dogs outside. I am in my house.
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Old 03-23-2023, 06:55 PM   #4
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Lift up

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Originally Posted by reubenray374 View Post
On my previous rv's the vents did rotate. I tried these, but I did not want to damage them.

My door is free floating - it does not have a bottom track. There is very little room to pull the bottom out. I can't get a picture right now being it is raining cats and dogs outside. I am in my house.
Then just lift the door up and take it off the track.

Or post a picture.
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Old 03-23-2023, 07:43 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by reubenray374 View Post
On my previous rv's the vents did rotate. I tried these, but I did not want to damage them.

My door is free floating - it does not have a bottom track. There is very little room to pull the bottom out. I can't get a picture right now being it is raining cats and dogs outside. I am in my house.
You’ll probably need to take a photo of the upper hangers/rollers on your sliding door and post it to get accurate instructions for removal. I have a sliding door in the motorhome. There is no track at the bottom, just a small nylon guide. I looked at the mechanism up top a long time ago and if I remember right I had to rotate or swing out a latching mechanism to release the door from the roller. I could not remove the sliding door by simply lifting up.

We never close the sliding door. I made a removable travel locking system at the bottom to keep it from swinging and rattling during travel. I could probably just as well remove the door and leave it at home.

Edit: I think my door upper rollers look like the photos. The wheels are captive in the track. I’d swing out the white lever to detach the door from the roller set. See if yours is similar.
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Old 03-24-2023, 01:31 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by BehindBars View Post
Youíll probably need to take a photo of the upper hangers/rollers on your sliding door and post it to get accurate instructions for removal. I have a sliding door in the motorhome. There is no track at the bottom, just a small nylon guide. I looked at the mechanism up top a long time ago and if I remember right I had to rotate or swing out a latching mechanism to release the door from the roller. I could not remove the sliding door by simply lifting up.

We never close the sliding door. I made a removable travel locking system at the bottom to keep it from swinging and rattling during travel. I could probably just as well remove the door and leave it at home.

Edit: I think my door upper rollers look like the photos. The wheels are captive in the track. Iíd swing out the white lever to detach the door from the roller set. See if yours is similar.
That is the roller. I got the door off by removing the two screws that were being used as door stops. I then bent out the end trim piece and slide the door off one and then moved it to the other end. The hardest part is there is only about 6" of space between the bed and the door for removal.

The idea of removing the door was due to we did not latch the door closed and during our trip the door slide hard enough to break off one of the door stop screws. It also pushed out the end trim piece. This piece just bent back into place.
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Old 03-24-2023, 01:43 PM   #7
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I'm not sure how you would remove your particular door but just in case you haven't thought about it, a reason you may want to keep it is to help with temperature control in the bedroom. On our FE 279RLDS we will close the door in the cooler weather to help keep it warmer at night.
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Old 03-24-2023, 01:50 PM   #8
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Upgrading to the Dometic 310 from the 300 was easy. I just recently replaced mine, and like I mentioned on another thread "took me longer to shut off the water supply than changing out the unit". Also comes with everything you need, that's provided your flange is still good. Mine was fine and did not need to be replaced.
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Old 03-24-2023, 02:27 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Draggo View Post
I'm not sure how you would remove your particular door but just in case you haven't thought about it, a reason you may want to keep it is to help with temperature control in the bedroom. On our FE 279RLDS we will close the door in the cooler weather to help keep it warmer at night.
Another reason that we won't be closing this door at night is we have steps at the foot of the bed extending through the door opening for our Yorkie to go down at night if she needs to potty.
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Old 03-24-2023, 02:28 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by pclevel1 View Post
Upgrading to the Dometic 310 from the 300 was easy. I just recently replaced mine, and like I mentioned on another thread "took me longer to shut off the water supply than changing out the unit". Also comes with everything you need, that's provided your flange is still good. Mine was fine and did not need to be replaced.
I am assuming my flange should be good being we have only used it for 5 days.
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Old 03-24-2023, 02:29 PM   #11
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Our vents in the ceiling twist real easy. You got some good answers here. Let us know how it all works out.
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Old 03-24-2023, 03:08 PM   #12
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Our vents in the ceiling twist real easy. You got some good answers here. Let us know how it all works out.
I did get the vents adjusted. They would not turn, but the grill part had to be pulled down from the mount part and then popped back in place. The one I tried before would not come apart without a screwdriver prying the two parts apart. On the other vents the two parts came apart easier.
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Old 03-25-2023, 08:20 AM   #13
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Shower Head?

I thought I would be smart and change out the super small shower head for another one. My thought was that I normally leave my grey tank open so it did not need to be a water saver type. But I did not think about the small 6 gallon water heater. The campground I stayed at had great water pressure and I ran out of hot water very quickly.

I then remembered that I could turn on the propane and electric for a faster return of hot water. But to be safe I changed back to the original super small shower head.

I changed out the shower want holder to raise up the shower head holder being I am tall. It is perfect for my short wife, but it is still way to low for me.
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Old 03-25-2023, 08:37 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by reubenray374 View Post
I thought I would be smart and change out the super small shower head for another one. My thought was that I normally leave my grey tank open so it did not need to be a water saver type. But I did not think about the small 6 gallon water heater. The campground I stayed at had great water pressure and I ran out of hot water very quickly.

I then remembered that I could turn on the propane and electric for a faster return of hot water. But to be safe I changed back to the original super small shower head.

I changed out the shower want holder to raise up the shower head holder being I am tall. It is perfect for my short wife, but it is still way to low for me.
Not sure what shower head you changed to, but we use this Oxygenics, and loved it so much that I transferred it to our present motorhome when we changed rigs.
We used to have a 10 gallon water heater, now a 6 gallon, and I can easily have my shower without running out of hot water.
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Old 03-25-2023, 08:50 AM   #15
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Not sure what shower head you changed to, but we use this Oxygenics, and loved it so much that I transferred it to our present motorhome when we changed rigs.
We used to have a 10 gallon water heater, now a 6 gallon, and I can easily have my shower without running out of hot water.
I looked at them to begin with, but my wife wanted it to be black to match everything else.

The brand I bought is water saving, but it sure did go thought the hot water fast. This could be due to the high water pressure. I had my water pressure regulator set to 60 psi and it was a full 60 psi on it.
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Old 03-25-2023, 09:20 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by reubenray374 View Post
I looked at them to begin with, but my wife wanted it to be black to match everything else.

The brand I bought is water saving, but it sure did go thought the hot water fast. This could be due to the high water pressure. I had my water pressure regulator set to 60 psi and it was a full 60 psi on it.
60psi? Wow!!!!!!
Thatís all Iíll say on that pressure when itís comes to RV plumbing.
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Old 03-25-2023, 09:40 AM   #17
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60psi? Wow!!!!!!

Thatís all Iíll say on that pressure when itís comes to RV plumbing.
We usually use 55psi, but at the house where it is usually a steady 75psi I don't hook up with a regulator at all. No problems. Can't find the thread now, but one of the forums trusted members showed pressures of 100psi due to heat expansion (water heater) in the RV closed system.
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Old 03-25-2023, 12:20 PM   #18
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60psi? Wow!!!!!!
Thatís all Iíll say on that pressure when itís comes to RV plumbing.
When I first hooked up the water it went up to 80psi. I immediately reduced it down to 60psi.
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Old 03-25-2023, 12:38 PM   #19
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When I first hooked up the water it went up to 80psi. I immediately reduced it down to 60psi.
55 PSI is my upper limit, although as low as 30-40 is still quite functional. Proceed at your own risk, but at 60 PSI +, I’ve seen poorly crimped RV fittings and connections start leaking.

Also, when boondocking off the FW tank, high pressure and high flow rates do you no good.
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Old 03-25-2023, 02:47 PM   #20
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Exactly how do you run the water pump and the city water at the same time? I tried doing this at home while flushing my lines. Yes, I had water in the fresh water tank and I had the water pump switch on.
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