City water hook-up question!

Jayhawk62 · 08-24-2021, 02:17 PM

I connected the rv park water supply to my "city" water hook-up. No water at kitchen sink or in bathroom The toiler works and the outside "lowest point" water valves are operative. Anyone have advice on this, I would appreciate any help.

There is no water in the on-board tank, I think. The pump does not work and the tank level lights only show "fault" in red.

I will not be returning to the selling RV dealer. Still no remote from dealer or Forest River. If you guys/gals can't figure my water problem, I will return to the previous dealer that I bought my Keystone from (2011) and they sold it for me before I puchased this R-pod 180.

5picker · 08-24-2021, 02:28 PM

Remove the aerators on the faucets where there is no water and see if they are clogged.

Happens a LOT and is reported here about once a week. Shavings, sawdust or dirt is usually the culprit.

The pump might 'run' with no water in the tank but it sure won't pump any water unless you put some into the fresh tank. The lights show red because there is no water in the fresh tank.

Jayhawk62 · 08-24-2021, 02:37 PM

Thank you for the quick reply! How do I "blow-out" the crap? I did a one nite stay-cation here in Amarillo at Oasis RV Park just to see if everything works....I will put some water in the fresh water tank and try the pump.

I'm at home now in my apartment but the RV park is only 4 miles away. I have until check-out time tomorrow to figure everything out OR go to an RV repair shop......I am really discouraged with the dealer that I bought this R-pod from.

mikeyk101 · 08-24-2021, 03:59 PM

@5picker is right. No water will be pumped if fresh water tank is empty. The purpose of pump is to use water in fresh water tank to pressurize your water system and be able to use the water in fresh water tank. When hooked up to city water, it is already pressurized and should supply water at all fixtures without the pump.

Jayhawk62 · 08-24-2021, 04:05 PM

Thank you for the reply. Actually I am/was aware of the "need" for water to be in the fresh water tank. My plan was to test "city" water first.....but I am/was surprised not to hear the pump at least try to pump water. I have phoned the Keystone dealer here in Amarillo and they will look at the problem for me tomorrow. I am NOT going back to the Forest River dealer; the walk through is/was worthless!

5picker · 08-24-2021, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhawk62

Thank you for the quick reply! How do I "blow-out" the crap? I did a one nite stay-cation here in Amarillo at Oasis RV Park just to see if everything works....I will put some water in the fresh water tank and try the pump.

I'm at home now in my apartment but the RV park is only 4 miles away. I have until check-out time tomorrow to figure everything out OR go to an RV repair shop......I am really discouraged with the dealer that I bought this R-pod from.

You have to unscrew the aerators (the little screen) on the end of the faucets and clean the debris out of them. Open a spigot and let the water run a few seconds in case there is more debris in the lines before screwing the aerator back on.

It isn't uncommon for some dirt and shavings to get in the lines during assembly. The line sets are made up ahead of time and then pulled into position during assembly. It isn't uncommon for the open end of the line to get crap in them before they then get connected together.

You do not need the pump on when connected to city water.
The pump is for when NO city water connection is available (commonly called boondocking) and then you'll use the pump to draw water out of the fresh tank. (once the tank is filled or water added to it)

I agree, you should be disappointed/discouraged in your dealer. They should have gone over all this basic R/V 101 stuff with you at your PDI/Customer Orientation. There are bound to be a million other questions you'll have so don't be afraid to ask.

Just post all the information you can possibly think of to help us help you including appliance make/model (if asking about a specific item) and anything else pertinent.

Jayhawk62 · 08-24-2021, 06:13 PM

I got the bathroom faucet (hot and cold) to work. Did as you advised, took off the screen. There was very little crap but I left the screen off and lots of air car out and then water, yeaaah.. There is a screen AND a plastic screen with a hole in the center also. Really cuts the flow....so I think I'll leave out that "screen" when I get this whole problem settled.

The Keystone dealer will work on the problems--for a price of course--but I trust them to help me. Even without the screen(s) the kitchen faucet won't run.

After filling the fresh water tank about 5 gallons.....pump still won't work and "fault" still shows on the panel.

I hope I don't have to drive to Clovis, New Mexico for Forest River warranty work.

5picker · 08-24-2021, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhawk62

I got the bathroom faucet (hot and cold) to work. Did as you advised, took off the screen. There was very little crap but I left the screen off and lots of air car out and then water, yeaaah.. There is a screen AND a plastic screen with a hole in the center also. Really cuts the flow....so I think I'll leave out that "screen" when I get this whole problem settled.

The Keystone dealer will work on the problems--for a price of course--but I trust them to help me. Even without the screen(s) the kitchen faucet won't run.

After filling the fresh water tank about 5 gallons.....pump still won't work and "fault" still shows on the panel.

I hope I don't have to drive to Clovis, New Mexico for Forest River warranty work.

Call a mobile technician. Many of them do warranty work.

**Mr. Dan** · 08-24-2021, 06:32 PM

Post a pic of the “fault”. That may have to do with the propane operation of the water heater.

Rover Podder · 08-24-2021, 07:08 PM

Yes, if this is an RPOD, the "fault" light is for the propane function of the water heater. It doesn't relate to the water pump.

DougW · 08-24-2021, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhawk62

After filling the fresh water tank about 5 gallons.....pump still won't work and "fault" still shows on the panel.

5 gallons may not be enough for the pump to pull the water, some tanks have the pickup for the water pump on the side and they can be a few inches up from the bottom of the tank.

jimmoore13 · 08-26-2021, 11:58 AM

A thought. I hope I'm not repeating.

The winterizing valves on the hot water heater might all be in the off position. That would only cover the hot water side, but worth a look. I'm not aware of a similar shutoff on the cold side, but perhaps there is something going on there.

Does the outside shower work...either hot and/or cold? How about the inside shower/tub? There is no aerator on the tub faucet, and you can easily remove the shower heads from their feed hoses to see if water runs...no aerators on either. (Be sure to remove the shower heads FIRST so you don't clog them permanently.) Clearly you have some water coming in if it will jet out of the low-point drains. Does it jet out under pressure or dribble?

I agree that construction debris might plug the aerators, but with that, one would expect at least a trickle to ooze through...and different performance at each faucet.

Have you looked under the rig to see if water is leaking out of the bottom somewhere...indicating a disconnected line? If you have a coroplast belly covering, water might run out anywhere.

Could you have an issue with a factory installed backflow preventer at the city water hookup? https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Connecto...996674&sr=8-12 This is where the "dribble" from the low point drains might be a telltale. Under city water presssure, the low point drains should jet water out under pressure.

I'd definitely start with the aerators, but you may need to do some sleuthing to identify the source of the problem. If you have water at the showers/tub, then bear in mind that debris in the lines could actually block the faucet valves...not just the aerators.

Good luck.

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