no power to the Furrion rear view mount.

[wlfclf2000]

I have a 2023 R-Pod 196. Went to install my Furrion rear view camera today and there is no power to the mount. It works fine plugging into the in-vehicle power source but not when installed. I checked and all lights are on to the trailer but there is no power light on the camera when installed in the mount.
I checked and no fuse problems. Anyone have this problem before? Anyone know if there is enough wire to pull the connection through the hole in the trailer?
I know it's best to take it back to dealer but that is over an hour away and will require that I leave the trailer.

Bill

[jjscsix]

I would take it off and put a voltmeter on the contacts on the trailer that the camera mounts to. That tells you if it’s getting power which tells you if the problem is in the wiring or the unit. And be sure the contacts are clean.

I assume you mean it is not getting a signal back to the screen. Actually, the more I read your post the more confused I am. What do you see on the monitor when you plug it in to your vehicles lighter socket?

I have to admit I did not know there is a light on the camera.

[Rhumblefish]

Power to the mount comes from your TV only, so only the TV fuses would matter. PWM probably… By any chance, Ddoes your tow vehicle (the Ridgeline) have LED lights? (I suspect it does).

You can short your 7way pin with an automotive fuse to power the lights with onboard 12v as an easy test. If your camera powers up AND you’ve got LED lights on your TV, it’s definitely PWM.

PWM is a function of how car manufacturers are managing power aboard the car, and chopping up the cycle to dim the onboard LED DRLs. Unfortunately, this chopped up 12v isn’t enough to power the camera appropriately. There are a number of solutions, usually involving an adapter at the 7pin connection that contains capacitors that will smooth out the chopped 12 V signal enough to drive the camera.

Turns out, this is a very common problem… Especially as more tow vehicles are being equipped with LED lights (and, as such, the manufacturers are implementing PWM to manage the brightness).

Here’s some very basic discussion:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2617006

I’m on a tablet or would provide substantial links for you. In this, a little searching is your friend… let me know if you need more info or input.

Just my .02, hope this helps.

[wlfclf2000]

Thanks for your replies.

So, I was able to get the wires out from the trailer and a polarity tester showed the wiring was installed in reverse polarity. Un-crimp, reverse the wires and re-crimp fixed that problem.

I also found three of the four self-tapping screws holding the mount were stripped which explained all the silicone caulk plastered to the top of the mount. If installing these mounts is your job, how can you get it wrong???

Bill

[Rhumblefish]

Originally Posted by wlfclf2000

Thanks for your replies.

So, I was able to get the wires out from the trailer and a polarity tester showed the wiring was installed in reverse polarity. Un-crimp, reverse the wires and re-crimp fixed that problem.

I also found three of the four self-tapping screws holding the mount were stripped which explained all the silicone caulk plastered to the top of the mount. If installing these mounts is your job, how can you get it wrong???

Bill

Nice! Thanks for the update. I would’ve lost money on a bet about PWM.

As to the stripped screws, you’ve just discovered a secret about the general state of RV construction. Unfortunately.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by wlfclf2000

Thanks for your replies.

So, I was able to get the wires out from the trailer and a polarity tester showed the wiring was installed in reverse polarity. Un-crimp, reverse the wires and re-crimp fixed that problem.

I also found three of the four self-tapping screws holding the mount were stripped which explained all the silicone caulk plastered to the top of the mount. If installing these mounts is your job, how can you get it wrong???

Bill

Bill, I would put RivNuts in the holes and then mount the camera with machine screws--the way it should have been done in the first place. This kit has everything you need. Be gentle when installing--with the large handles on the tool, it is easy to install the rivet and then strip the threads right out of it.

Install a test rivet on an empty can to see the amount of force needed to collapse the rivet.

[KB1]

2021 East-to-west Alta. The Furrion prewire on our TT was at best a joke. The installers seem to pick up power wherever they find it without regard to whether it makes sense or not. I wired our camera in with the supplied connection on the TT and it kept blowing the fuse for the monitor panel (Fresh water Tanks, etc) inside the trailer. That plus if it worked the camera was always on. On our TT there is a running light 2 inched above the prewire so I wired to that instead. The camera is now only on when I turn the lights on (NOT auto on) in the towing vehicle or when I shunt the 7 pin connector, both what I wanted to begin with. The most difficult part of this mod was balancing on a ladder behind the trailer.

[wlfclf2000]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Bill, I would put RivNuts in the holes and then mount the camera with machine screws--the way it should have been done in the first place. This kit has everything you need. Be gentle when installing--with the large handles on the tool, it is easy to install the rivet and then strip the threads right out of it.

Install a test rivet on an empty can to see the amount of force needed to collapse the rivet.

Thanks, but I got it secure and will not take it off again unless it fails but perhaps if something else gets loose.

Bill

[wlfclf2000]

Originally Posted by KB1

2021 East-to-west Alta. The Furrion prewire on our TT was at best a joke. The installers seem to pick up power wherever they find it without regard to whether it makes sense or not. I wired our camera in with the supplied connection on the TT and it kept blowing the fuse for the monitor panel (Fresh water Tanks, etc) inside the trailer. That plus if it worked the camera was always on. On our TT there is a running light 2 inched above the prewire so I wired to that instead. The camera is now only on when I turn the lights on (NOT auto on) in the towing vehicle or when I shunt the 7 pin connector, both what I wanted to begin with. The most difficult part of this mod was balancing on a ladder behind the trailer.

The R-pod is wired to the running lights. Just glad I found the problem early, could have spent a lot of money if my tester didn't have a polarity circuit.

Bill