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04-07-2020, 10:15 PM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobienick
Out of curiosity do you need to drive across the country or is this a pleasure trip? If not a need maybe you could make the trip at another time and reduce the potential spread of the virus.
If it is needed for relocation or something similar then be careful and get a good inverter generator.
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It is very much essential. Very much contemplated, not a challenge our abilities type thing.
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04-08-2020, 12:00 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 4,549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco Carl
... And most small generators will not start an air conditioner, start up amps are too great even with an extra capacitor on the compressor.
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Many topics on this forum provide evidence disproving that statement. I've used my Honda 2000 to run a 13.5K BTU AC with only a $7 time delay relay and a $20 hard start capacitor. The same generator can also run a 15K BTU AC with a Micro-air EasyStart, but that is significantly more expensive.
__________________
TV: 2021 Ford F-150 4WD XLT Crew w/ 3.5L EB & HDPP, payload: 2,416#.
RV: 2020 Rockwood Mini-Lite 2507S, Propride 3P hitch w/ 1400# spring bars
Camping nights: 2021, 52; 2022, 99; 2023, 88; 2024, TBD (Est: 80+)
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04-08-2020, 06:13 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 37
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Ok... I like what I am hearing here. The gold standard being 2K.
So ... is a 2K generator a peak 2k or running 2K
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04-08-2020, 06:22 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frogpickle
Ok... I like what I am hearing here. The gold standard being 2K.
So ... is a 2K generator a peak 2k or running 2K
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If you're looking in that size range take a look at the 2200 watt units.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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04-08-2020, 06:47 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
If you're looking in that size range take a look at the 2200 watt units.
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Thank you. Is that peak 2200?
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04-08-2020, 07:01 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frogpickle
Thank you. Is that peak 2200?
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Yes. Almost all manufacturers show the peak in the big bold letters and often show running in the "fine print". Think 1800 watts running which coincidentally is about the same as you'll get from a 15 amp 120 volt outlet.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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04-09-2020, 12:00 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 4,549
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Regarding the conversation about recharging while driving, would running a suitably heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the Bargman connector improve the charging capability?
__________________
TV: 2021 Ford F-150 4WD XLT Crew w/ 3.5L EB & HDPP, payload: 2,416#.
RV: 2020 Rockwood Mini-Lite 2507S, Propride 3P hitch w/ 1400# spring bars
Camping nights: 2021, 52; 2022, 99; 2023, 88; 2024, TBD (Est: 80+)
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04-09-2020, 03:02 AM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 37
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This one is a little heavier than I had wanted, but the propane option is really attractive to me. Also, Costco return policy is second to none.
Anyone have experience with this model?
https://www.costco.com/firman-2900w-...100481637.html
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04-09-2020, 08:59 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 4,549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frogpickle
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I have no experience with that brand or model but suggest you review other inverter generator threads in this forum to benefit from members' experiences and uses of larger generators. Some prefer the larger size, others find them too cumbersome. You'll have to interpret the information with consideration for your own needs, abilities and available space.
Several brands of the 15A range of generators can be linked in pairs to provide 30A capacity in a smaller size generator. Doing so allows you to use only one generator when that's all you need. It also requires buying two generators and the accessory kit and may be less convenient if you'll usually use 30A and the larger size is not an issue for you.
How important to you is the ability to use propane in the short term of your immediate need? Other brands can be converted to propane. They also can be adapted to use larger gas tanks for long-term running. I'm not trying to dissuade you from that use, brand or size, but other factors may be more important.
My search links below are for Honda but conversion and adaptation is not limited to that brand.
Honda generator propane conversion:
https://www.google.com/search?client...ane+conversion
Honda generator fuel tank extension:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hond...tank+extension
This company specializes in customizing inverter generators and can give you ideas of what's possible.
https://www.pinellaspowerproducts.com/
The remote start feature on the Firman is nice. It's not on the Honda but is found on some other brands. Using it assumes you're planning to leave the generator hooked up for intermittent use while you're inside. Depending on where you are, that may pose a security risk (theft, a common problem for high-value portable items) that you have to mitigate.
Edit: the fact you're traveling with an RP-179 suggests your tow vehicle isn't large. If true, the weight of a larger generator may be more important for payload considerations than it is for your ability to move it around.
__________________
TV: 2021 Ford F-150 4WD XLT Crew w/ 3.5L EB & HDPP, payload: 2,416#.
RV: 2020 Rockwood Mini-Lite 2507S, Propride 3P hitch w/ 1400# spring bars
Camping nights: 2021, 52; 2022, 99; 2023, 88; 2024, TBD (Est: 80+)
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04-09-2020, 09:32 AM
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#30
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frogpickle
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No experience with that particular generator but since you mentioned the 'propane option' I just want to point out (and you may already know) the wattage ratings when on propane are lower. That 3200 peak/2900 running on gasoline becomes 2900 peak/2600 running on propane.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=86
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04-09-2020, 10:11 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,458
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A little more complicated...
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscowles
Regarding the conversation about recharging while driving, would running a suitably heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the Bargman connector improve the charging capability?
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It's a little more complicated than that.
First of all, you need to fuse it someplace. If, for example, the trailer umbilical gets pinched and the +12 is shorted to ground, you would otherwise burn up a lot of stuff.
Second, you need to switch the line so it's only hot when the engine is running. Otherwise, when you stop for lunch or a rest-stop overnight, you will drain the truck battery running trailer accessories.
If you found the existing wire, up front, and paralleled it, you could circumvent these two problems.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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04-09-2020, 01:10 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
It's a little more complicated than that.
First of all, you need to fuse it someplace. If, for example, the trailer umbilical gets pinched and the +12 is shorted to ground, you would otherwise burn up a lot of stuff.
Second, you need to switch the line so it's only hot when the engine is running. Otherwise, when you stop for lunch or a rest-stop overnight, you will drain the truck battery running trailer accessories.
If you found the existing wire, up front, and paralleled it, you could circumvent these two problems.
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Totally agree. On my installation (for my DC-DC charger) I ran a separate pair of wires (+ & -) from the battery, not alternator. Mounted fuse on side of battery "shield".
At the back bumper I could have merely run these wires into the 7-pin connector but chose to connect directly to the DC-DC chargter and then use the OE charge wire to control the DC-DC charger. My TV charge wire is only "hot" when engine is running.
It would pay for people to check to see if the charge wire is hot when engine is off. All of my factory wired vehicles have had a relay controlling the charge wire so it's dead when engine is off. I'm sure there might be some older systems that remain hot when engine off as well as a lot of aftermarket installations that require separate wiring for the charge lead and brake control.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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04-09-2020, 01:12 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: California
Posts: 7,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
It would pay for people to check to see if the charge wire is hot when engine is off. All of my factory wired vehicles have had a relay controlling the charge wire so it's dead when engine is off. I'm sure there might be some older systems that remain hot when engine off as well as a lot of aftermarket installations that require separate wiring for the charge lead and brake control.
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Many later model Chevy trucks are always hot.
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04-09-2020, 01:42 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 4,549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
It's a little more complicated than that. ...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanMike
Totally agree. ...
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Useful info. Thanks.
__________________
TV: 2021 Ford F-150 4WD XLT Crew w/ 3.5L EB & HDPP, payload: 2,416#.
RV: 2020 Rockwood Mini-Lite 2507S, Propride 3P hitch w/ 1400# spring bars
Camping nights: 2021, 52; 2022, 99; 2023, 88; 2024, TBD (Est: 80+)
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04-09-2020, 01:50 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frogpickle
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My father in law bought that generator. It's pretty nice for the price, but I think it is more than you need. Based on your tow vehicle, I would highly suggest not bringing a generator and just doing solar. The extra weight and space is not worth it. I camp 25to 30 nights a year, primarily with no hookups and I don't bring a generator.
The solar is very easy to add to your trailer. I used a renogy flexible panel and a 30 amp controller. The wiring is all in the entrainment center box just above the entrance. The panel plugs in on the roof. You cut a home where it is prewired and connect the battery to the battery side and the panel to the panel side. I had to extend the panel wires which was easy with 10ga wires and wire nuts. Keeps my batteries charged all the time.
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04-09-2020, 05:53 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Greenbrier, TN
Posts: 124
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Based on trip and purpose, I say generator and 2k, solar for traveling during day and stop at night is not a good idea. Solar is great for boondocking, but this a traveling trip. I have a Generac IX 2000 and a Straumberg Carlson front rack. It has proved invaluable during travel, I can stop, run my trailer, charge my battery quickly, etc. Without tow vehicle if a repair is needed. Which has happened. With generator I always had power, didn't care about AC, cared about power when needed.
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04-09-2020, 06:48 PM
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#37
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 37
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You all freaking rock! Thank you everyone for taking the time to throw down your knowledge and experience. We may not all agree on the best practice for each situation... but everyone is bringing good stuff to the table.
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04-16-2020, 06:29 PM
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#38
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 13
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A genny is the best bet. Make sure it is a "true sine wave", a "modified sine wave" may ruin sensitive electronics (TV, fridge).
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04-16-2020, 06:43 PM
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#39
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickens
A genny is the best bet. Make sure it is a "true sine wave", a "modified sine wave" may ruin sensitive electronics (TV, fridge).
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I think you mean an inverter generator.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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04-16-2020, 06:58 PM
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#40
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,266
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Depending where you expect to run it, check the sound level. Remember that sound is measured on a log scale so 6db difference is about twice as loud.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
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