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Old 09-07-2016, 12:11 PM   #21
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What are the plastic things for? Why not just solder the connection?
What plastic things?

You could solder the wires into the plug, but it's going to be hard to find a plug that has solder connections.
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:15 PM   #22
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Interesting topic, but if I may show my dumb-side, are we talking about the 'molded on end off the umbilical ' being the wire(s) coming from the controller connected to the truck (plugin) ?
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I think we're talking about the same thing. It's the end on the cable that comes from the junction box on the RV and plugs into the bargman receptacle on the tow vehicle. It has the running lights, brakes and +12 power running in it. The 7-way plug.
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:39 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
What plastic things?

You could solder the wires into the plug, but it's going to be hard to find a plug that has solder connections.
I'm sorry,I thought you were talking about the plastic connectors that that connect the wires that come out of the axle to the wires for the brakes.

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Old 09-07-2016, 12:40 PM   #24
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I'm sorry,I thought you were talking about the plastic connectors that that connect the wires that come out of the axle to the wires for the brakes.

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I think I have an aftermarket 7 way plug laying around. I'll give it a try.

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Old 09-07-2016, 12:42 PM   #25
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I'm sorry,I thought you were talking about the plastic connectors that that connect the wires that come out of the axle to the wires for the brakes.
No, but that is a good idea. They should be checked as well for a good tight connection. And using some heat shrink tubing, a butt slice, and soldering them, would be a good idea.
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:29 PM   #26
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I went to the Tekonsha Web site and they say you can mount them 360 degrees. I will angle it upward and see if that helps.

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I have an older version which is only good from 0-70 degrees or something like that. So it made a difference with mine.
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:33 PM   #27
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Do you still have the original molded on plug on the umbilical cord. If so, I suggest replacing it with an aftermarket plug.
Thanks Bama. What would make you believe this connection is weak? Just asking. I've never heard that suggestion before. Would you replace the whole pig tail or just cut off the plug and put a different plug on it?
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:50 PM   #28
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Those molded on plugs have some crappy blade connectors, and they don't make very good contact. I've replaced the last three rv's plugs. Also the molding process isn't very good and can cause problems plugging them in.

The cable is usually pretty good, so I just recommend cutting the old plug off and installing a new one.
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Old 09-07-2016, 06:25 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
I think we're talking about the same thing. It's the end on the cable that comes from the junction box on the RV and plugs into the bargman receptacle on the tow vehicle. It has the running lights, brakes and +12 power running in it. The 7-way plug.
I am glad you replied... Thanks for clarifying .
I was thinking you were talking about the cable out the back of the brake controller.

So... there can / are poor connections with the 'molded - sealed' connectors that come from the factory that are usually hard wired to the trailer ?

Perhaps this is the reason my trailer does not do the brake lock up test....poor connection - lack of 12v power ?

I put it down to it being a "heavy trailer" .
I have not experienced any braking problems... and all shoes & drums and bearings were personally serviced recently.
I use a Prodigy 2 controller and love it.

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Old 09-08-2016, 10:29 AM   #30
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I've seen it on several trailers, not just RV's.

When someone tells me that the trailer isn't braking hard enough, AND they've checked and adjusted the brakes and wire terminations, then I always suspect the molded on 7-way plug. As I said above, replacing it made a night and day difference on the last few RV's we've owned.

I wish the RV industry had adopted the round pin connectors that the trucking industry uses. They have a lot more contact area and the sockets press around the pins much tighter.
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:21 AM   #31
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I suspected my plug too, a bit of folded Emory cloth polished the terminals up, but it was an improvement, not a fix. Though I just remembered I have an aftermarket plug here somewhere.
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Old 11-06-2016, 08:00 PM   #32
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This is what I Found !!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
I've seen it on several trailers, not just RV's.

When someone tells me that the trailer isn't braking hard enough, AND they've checked and adjusted the brakes and wire terminations, then I always suspect the molded on 7-way plug. As I said above, replacing it made a night and day difference on the last few RV's we've owned.

I wish the RV industry had adopted the round pin connectors that the trucking industry uses. They have a lot more contact area and the sockets press around the pins much tighter.
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This is what I found...

OK... I finally got around to changing the 7-way moulded on pig-tail end to an after market plug.
Now I will have control of making a solid connection inside the plug.

Prior to taking everything apart I was checking inside the junction box to make sure they were all connected to the corresponding locations.
I noticed that the 'brake wire' coming in was discolored and had a melted spot on the jacket.

Further inspection showed some scorched areas inside the junction box and upon removal of the whole wire assembly revealed that the 'brake wire' had been shorting out for a long time.... way before I even owned the unit.

The metal clamp that holds the wire going into the junction box was partially broken and allowed the large multi cable to vibrate until at some point the brake wire shorted out, causing the outer casing to burn/melt , exposing other wires to be damaged.

All this was a big surprise to me... but, luckily I found it before a fire happened or having no brakes down the road.

Pictures show:
- the wires that were going into the junction box (that connect to the truck) revealing the melted casing.
- the New connector that will replace the moulded on one.
- the junction box (scorched) and the clamp that also has some melted metal on it where it was shorting out.

IMO... the clamp that secures the wires going into the junction box probably was "over tightened" squashing the multi-cable. Also I think this probably was done at the factory, as this unit has had very little highway travel before I got it 2+ years ago.
When I reassemble everything I will be placing an extra protective piece of rubber where the clamp tightens around the multi-cable... as a precautionary against squashing and chafe.
Hopefully my braking power will be improved as well.

I posted this not to alarm anyone but only for informational purposes .

Islander
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:04 PM   #33
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With the over ride pushed all the way to the left is get just over 12 volts at the plug on my truck. Plug in the trailer and I get 11.8 on the blue brake wire. Now would it be correct to assume that if I check the wires down by the trailer brakes it should be somewhat close to the 11.8? Granted I would think there would be a little drop on voltage. But how much drop would be acceptable? I checked one and only got 2.4.
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Old 11-08-2016, 03:59 PM   #34
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You should get close to the same voltage at the brakes when the manual level is actuated, that you get when the umbilical is plugged into the vehicle (~11.5 volts).

If you're only getting 2.4 volts at the magnet wires, you have a bad connection between there and the connector. Check both positive and negative wiring.
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:21 PM   #35
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So I just go done checking the voltage again with the switch all the way to the left. 11 volts on the controler,10.3 on the trailer side of the plug,10.2 where the blue wire hooks into the black brake wires at the pin box and 8.6 at all 4 wheels. Sound reasonable? Or should there be more voltage at the wheels?
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Old 11-10-2016, 01:08 PM   #36
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I'd go through all the connections between the controller and the brakes and remake them. You want the voltage to be a little closer than that.

Is that 11 volts at the controller with the engine running or not?
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Old 11-10-2016, 02:05 PM   #37
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Engine off. 14 with engine on.
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Old 11-10-2016, 02:06 PM   #38
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I think I need to get rid of all of those quick connectors that they use
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Old 11-10-2016, 04:32 PM   #39
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Those quick connectors can be a problem because they're insulation displacement and if not installed exactly correct, they don't make good connections. Even the type where they strip the wiring, they usually do a rushed job of it.
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Old 11-10-2016, 04:42 PM   #40
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I'm going to chop them off and solder and shrink wrap all the connections.
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