Trailer brakes

Trobec · 08-16-2016, 03:32 PM

Just a little fyi. I was going to adjust my brakes on my 285 slr and found out that they come with self adjusting brakes. Wish I would have known that before I got it all jacked up and on jack stands. Live and learn.

**Bama Rambler** · 08-16-2016, 03:49 PM

You should check the adjustment anyway every year. A lot of times the self adjusters won't operate correctly and can leave a brake loose or even over tighten them.

It takes a little more work because you have to hold the adjuster arm off the cog a little and then move the cog with the spoon.

Trobec · 08-22-2016, 10:04 AM

I fully agree Bama. I couldn't get the brakes to lock up with the controller on max and on gravel! Will be doing a manual adjustment today.

sandstormfam · 09-06-2016, 02:28 PM

Trobec, did you ever get them adjusted right? Mine wont lock up either and it pulls to the left on a hard break. I'm taking it in tomorrow to get the water heater fixed and I was going to have them check the breaks out too.

SKnight · 09-06-2016, 02:49 PM

Auto adjusters keep the brakes adequate, but far from optimum. It's worthwhile to check the adjustment every few thousand miles.

Trobec · 09-06-2016, 04:17 PM

I adjusted all four brakes but still can't get them to lock up. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy 2 brake controller and have to run the gain on the highest setting. Didn't have any problems on my 2012 Impact. However,it was a 24 foot bumper pull.

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Trobec · 09-06-2016, 04:22 PM

I think I'm going to try to find a brake shoe upgrade

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Iwannacamp · 09-06-2016, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trobec

I adjusted all four brakes but still can't get them to lock up. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy 2 brake controller and have to run the gain on the highest setting. Didn't have any problems on my 2012 Impact. However,it was a 24 foot bumper pull.

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any chance they may greasy?

sandstormfam · 09-06-2016, 04:44 PM

I have almost the exact same scenario. Old trailer was fine, and this one wont lock up even on b3 and dialed all the way up. It actually breaks very little and my truck is taking on most of the breaking. So that's not good. I found out that my break controller was a little too level or slightly negative, meaning I had it at about 0 degree tilt and I think it wasn't registering properly. I moved the mount up the dash a little so it's sitting about 45 degrees from horizontal and it worked a lot better. I think I was 0 degrees or less with my old mount. I never had to mess with the mount with my other trailer as everything worked fine. I'm taking it in tomorrow and I'll see what they say.

SKnight · 09-06-2016, 05:46 PM

Before your brakes will lock, they need to be warmed up. The directions say to use the manual lever to drag the trailer brakes for a short time to warm them up.

**Bama Rambler** · 09-06-2016, 06:06 PM

Do you still have the original molded on plug on the umbilical cord. If so, I suggest replacing it with an aftermarket plug.

Trobec · 09-06-2016, 07:35 PM

I took the right rear wheel apart and check the brake shoes and drums and everything looked as if it was okay. However, that doesn't mean that the rest of them don't have grease on them

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Trobec · 09-06-2016, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Do you still have the original molded on plug on the umbilical cord. If so, I suggest replacing it with an aftermarket plug.

Yes I do. Will have to change those.

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Trobec · 09-06-2016, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandstormfam

Trobec, did you ever get them adjusted right? Mine wont lock up either and it pulls to the left on a hard break. I'm taking it in tomorrow to get the water heater fixed and I was going to have them check the breaks out too.

I did get them adjusted properly I just think it might be a low voltage to the wheels.

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Trobec · 09-06-2016, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandstormfam

I have almost the exact same scenario. Old trailer was fine, and this one wont lock up even on b3 and dialed all the way up. It actually breaks very little and my truck is taking on most of the breaking. So that's not good. I found out that my break controller was a little too level or slightly negative, meaning I had it at about 0 degree tilt and I think it wasn't registering properly. I moved the mount up the dash a little so it's sitting about 45 degrees from horizontal and it worked a lot better. I think I was 0 degrees or less with my old mount. I never had to mess with the mount with my other trailer as everything worked fine. I'm taking it in tomorrow and I'll see what they say.

I went to the Tekonsha Web site and they say you can mount them 360 degrees. I will angle it upward and see if that helps.

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Trobec · 09-06-2016, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKnight

Before your brakes will lock, they need to be warmed up. The directions say to use the manual lever to drag the trailer brakes for a short time to warm them up.

I towed the trailer about 150 miles and tried the manual Switch and still could get it to lock up.

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Trobec · 09-06-2016, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trobec

I towed the trailer about 150 miles and tried the manual Switch and still could get it to lock up.

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Ment to say "couldn't get them to lock up."

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**Bama Rambler** · 09-07-2016, 09:51 AM

I cut the molded on end off the umbilical and replaced it with an after market unit, and it made a night and day difference in the braking power to the RV.

When you cut it off, leave a couple of inches of wire on it, so you can match the color to the function when connecting to the new one.

Trobec · 09-07-2016, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

I cut the molded on end off the umbilical and replaced it with an after market unit, and it made a night and day difference in the braking power to the RV.

When you cut it off, leave a couple of inches of wire on it, so you can match the color to the function when connecting to the new one.

What are the plastic things for? Why not just solder the connection?

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Islander · 09-07-2016, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

I cut the molded on end off the umbilical and replaced it with an after market unit, and it made a night and day difference in the braking power to the RV.

When you cut it off, leave a couple of inches of wire on it, so you can match the color to the function when connecting to the new one.

Interesting topic, but if I may show my dumb-side, are we talking about the 'molded on end off the umbilical ' being the wire(s) coming from the controller connected to the truck (plugin) ?
Thx
Islander

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