2020 Rockwood 2509S - Replacement Sink Faucet Question

[dnfa]

Hello All,

Hope everyone had a safe and Happy Thanksgiving!

We recently purchased a 2020 Rockwood 2509S and I wanted to replace the stock sink faucet with newer items that has extended hose, etc.

A couple questions if anyone knows.

- Any concerns or gotchas with replacing the stock kitchen sink faucet?
- I would need to drill into the existing countertop for a single center hole, I'm guessing this is some sort of composite, any concerns drilling and splitting?

Thanks as always in advance for any tips or recommendations!

Cheers - Dan

[SeaDog]

counter tops can be made with many different materials so I'm going to assume you are talking about corian if so a standard hole saw will work well don't force it.

[Thomas ho]

fancy faucets use more water. consider where you are staying. rv spot w/ hookups and sewer? boondocking ? water is going fast. gray tank fills quick. Fancy is nice but not always good.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Thomas ho

fancy faucets use more water. consider where you are staying. rv spot w/ hookups and sewer? boondocking ? water is going fast. gray tank fills quick. Fancy is nice but not always good.

Fancy, or not, all kitchen faucets sold in the USA are restricted to 2.2GPM. This can be changed by removing or modifying the restrictors to gain more flow. Most well-known name-brand kitchen faucets can be ordered or modified with OEM restrictors or aerators to decrease the flow from 2.2GPM to various other lower flow rates.

Bruce

[dnfa]

Originally Posted by SeaDog

counter tops can be made with many different materials so I'm going to assume you are talking about corian if so a standard hole saw will work well don't force it.

Thanks SeaDog! Yeah, I think you are correct, Corian sounds about right. Appreciate the advice.

[dnfa]

Originally Posted by nomad297

Fancy, or not, all kitchen faucets sold in the USA are restricted to 2.2GPM. This can be changed by removing or modifying the restrictors to gain more flow. Most well-known name-brand kitchen faucets can be ordered or modified with OEM restrictors or aerators to decrease the flow from 2.2GPM to various other lower flow rates.

Bruce

Thanks guys, definitely good things to think about! We do a fair amount of dispersed camping, so we would need to be very mindful about flow!

[WanderMore]

I’m guessing you already have a hole for the original faucet. If you need to increase the hole size you may want to consider a step drill; possibly drilling from top and bottom depending on counter thickness. There are other specialty drill press options but very spendy .

[01tundra]

I've installed new kitchen sink faucets in two 2020 2109's.

It's a very simple process and only required a hole saw bit on a drill for the center hole, which wasn't there from the factory.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by WanderMore

I’m guessing you already have a hole for the original faucet. If you need to increase the hole size you may want to consider a step drill; possibly drilling from top and bottom depending on counter thickness. There are other specialty drill press options but very spendy .

Whenever I need to drill a larger hole for a faucet (usually 1-3/8” for a kitchen faucet) in anything, including stone, I choose the correct sized hole saw with the correct type of cutting teeth and start into the original hole at a slight angle, then, when I am deep enough, I begin to bring the hole saw up and perpendicular to the surface, then complete cutting straight down. The only time this won’t work is when the center of the new hole must me at the exact same center as the old hole, but that’s not very often — there’s almost always room for play. If the hole must be in the same center in something other than stone, I will use a step drill until it cuts down to 1-3/8” diameter, then finish it off with a hole saw. If it must be in the center of a stone surface, I use a 3/4” thick piece of plywood with a 1-3/8” hole drilled in it as a guide to get me started. When I get about 1/4” down into the stone, I toss the plywood and finish drilling without it.

Bruce

[Tundra 2014]

Make sure you have the right connections. May take PEX tool and rings or adaptors. Mine was installed w/ flex hose and PEX hose combined, making the use of adaptors necessary. Yours may be a wrench and remove, look 1st. I spent a $100 to get all the tools and connections complete.

[dnfa]

Originally Posted by nomad297

Whenever I need to drill a larger hole for a faucet (usually 1-3/8” for a kitchen faucet) in anything, including stone, I choose the correct sized hole saw with the correct type of cutting teeth and start into the original hole at a slight angle, then, when I am deep enough, I begin to bring the hole saw up and perpendicular to the surface, then complete cutting straight down. The only time this won’t work is when the center of the new hole must me at the exact same center as the old hole, but that’s not very often — there’s almost always room for play. If the hole must be in the same center in something other than stone, I will use a step drill until it cuts down to 1-3/8” diameter, then finish it off with a hole saw. If it must be in the center of a stone surface, I use a 3/4” thick piece of plywood with a 1-3/8” hole drilled in it as a guide to get me started. When I get about 1/4” down into the stone, I toss the plywood and finish drilling without it.

Bruce

Thanks Bruce, great tips! Appreciate the advice.

[dnfa]

Originally Posted by Tundra 2014

Make sure you have the right connections. May take PEX tool and rings or adaptors. Mine was installed w/ flex hose and PEX hose combined, making the use of adaptors necessary. Yours may be a wrench and remove, look 1st. I spent a $100 to get all the tools and connections complete.

Great points! I believe that the new faucet is 9/16th's and the existing water connections were 3/4...so definitely will need to get the adapters. Thanks again!

[TRD]

Here is how I upgraded the kitchen faucet in my Flagstaff 25BDS.
I used a 3/8" thick 6" wide pine board as the 'template' for the new, larger hole. I drilled a hole in the board using the new, larger hole saw. This predrilled board holds the circular saw in place over the old hole as you start and cut the new hole. No scratching of the countertop. The board was cut long enough to go from a countertop edge with the predrilled hole over the existing smaller hole. I clamped the board to the countertop with the predrilled hole over the smaller hole using cheap clamps from Harbor Freight. You may need a wider board due to distance from your edge to hole, although there isn't much side to side force on the board as you begin to cut. If you want, try this out on a test board that simulates the countertop. It works.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ra...der-64154.html

The PEX water lines were connected using SharkBite connectors from Home Depot. Not cheap but so easy to connect in the small space under the countertop.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite...5087/206105366
Hope this helps.